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      04-08-2012, 09:29 PM   #1
RandysV10
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Easter RTABs

So I tackled the RTABs today, went with the Powerflex Polys. Installation wasn't to bad, just somewhat time consuming.

Removed the inner liner covers, supported the trailing arm, disconnected the brake line and wires from the trailing arms. Marked the bolt locations.

To remove the old bushings I drilled all around the bushing then used a gear puller to push it out. This took some effort I also had to use a chisel to get the remaining part of the bushing out.

Coated everything with Anti-Seize and used a couple plumbing floor plates to pull the new bushings in-place.

All in all not too bad of a DIY job, not sure how many hours the dealer would have charged for the job, my guess is around 3 - 4.

New TCKlines DA should be arriving tomorrow or Tuesday so that's next on the plate, then when that's over off for alignment and corner balance to go along with the new square setup.
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      04-08-2012, 10:19 PM   #2
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Nice I decided to stick with oem and get the Vorshlag limiters. I'll end up using thy breaker bar method when pulling out the bushings...

Oh yea remember corner balance first, then alignment! =P
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      04-09-2012, 05:39 AM   #3
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I thought you were at VIR this weekend? Mike and Beth were there. Beth needed a new clutch before she went..
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      04-09-2012, 06:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
I thought you were at VIR this weekend? Mike and Beth were there. Beth needed a new clutch before she went..
Ouch, also seen someone kissed a tire wall Sat morning. I decided to not schedule anything for April and get some modes done.
So far got the new RTAB's, new Apex Arc-8's with some new Hankook RS-3 265/35 squared, Wheel Studs, Speed Bleeders and should be receiving today or tomorrow new TCKline DA Coilovers for installing this week. I'll probably run down to VIR on Saturday to watch some of the Club racing going on. If you have time and interested you wanna check it out?
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      04-09-2012, 10:24 AM   #5
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That was Tods race preped 280Z. He banged out the fenders and had it back on the track that day. Beth kept sending me txt msgs all day.. Tod owns Tidewater Z.

I would like that but I am flying to San Diego on sunday so my Saturday is booked.
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      06-27-2014, 04:54 PM   #6
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Hello guys, sorry to bump an old thread but few questions:

1) Does the whole rear trailing arm need to come out for this DIY or can you just loosen at the body connection point (keeping it connected at the rear hub)?

2) Is it easy to remove the RTAB without impact tools?

2) Is there a way to preserve rear alignment if I swap these out?

Thank you
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      06-27-2014, 05:09 PM   #7
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Found this nice write-up here: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...=180130&page=4
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      06-27-2014, 05:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donoman View Post
Hello guys, sorry to bump an old thread but few questions:

1) Does the whole rear trailing arm need to come out for this DIY or can you just loosen at the body connection point (keeping it connected at the rear hub)?

2) Is it easy to remove the RTAB without impact tools?

2) Is there a way to preserve rear alignment if I swap these out?

Thank you
1. No. Just the bracket (17) that holds the trailing arm to the chassis needs to come out. Once out, the bracket is held into the trailing arm with a bolt (18) and nut (15).

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...39&hg=33&fg=30

Then you need to press the bushing out of the rear trailing arm That's the hard part. Although, if you have the right tools it's pretty easy. I bought one of those special tools for pressing and installing the rear trailing arm bushing in and out of the trailing arm, and with a power tool it takes like 20 minutes each side, tops.

2. The easy way would be to do it with the special tool press.



Even with the bushing press, it would be much easier and quicker to just attach the press to a power tool (doesn't have to be an impact tool).

3. Even with BEST intentions, it would behoove you to check your alignment after. Because the bushing bracket is slightly wider than the trailing arm, you can't get them to line up just like before you remove it (well, you can but you've got to get the marks to line up or measure the actual location of the bushing before removal). And even then it's a crapshoot.

I did it while installing my coil-overs so it needed an alignment anyway, and although the toe settings were not far off, they still had to adjust it after it was all said and done. And since the car sat lower, with a different camber, I consider it pure luck that I came somewhat close to the intended toe settings.
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      06-27-2014, 05:22 PM   #9
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Thanks for the feedback. Now I'm pissed because I just had the car aligned last Friday for $200!!! )*(&)(&#@!!@$!!!
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      06-28-2014, 06:22 AM   #10
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If you have access to the tool that HACK shows in the picture, things are quite easy. I have that very same tool... I bought off of Ebay for $50.00
A RTAB is a RTAB. There are a lot of DIY's on E46's you can use as a guide if you still do not understand the whole process. Some of these DIY's show you how to make your own RTAB tool out of some iron pipe. It works....

HACK is also correct in that you WILL need a new alignment because your rear toe will be off.... but $200 for an alignment seems a bit much.
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      06-28-2014, 09:41 AM   #11
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i went with stock bushes and turner RTAB limiters, i liked the idea of the stock bush still in a known "weak" area of the this platform era.
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      06-28-2014, 12:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
HACK is also correct in that you WILL need a new alignment because your rear toe will be off.... but $200 for an alignment seems a bit much.
Believe me... I called around!!! Everyone wanted $200... Dinan was one of them. Didn't want to go to a normal alignment shop because didn't trust them to do what they needed to do with my camber plates...
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      06-28-2014, 01:34 PM   #13
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Maybe it's the area. I do not know.

Over here on the east coast, in my area, most good respectable shops only charge around $100.
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      09-25-2015, 04:46 PM   #14
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OK peeps, doing my RTABS with limiters. Installed driver side visually centering the RTAB into the trailing arm. My question is that correct? Inspecting the old RTAB, it looks like it was not centered. Switched to passenger side and it was not centered. If centered is not correct, can anyone help with the offset? Centered makes sense to me as it appears that all 4 limiters are the same. Thanks in advance!

Driver:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w_...4=w640-h360-no

Passenger
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NT...w=w640-h360-no

Last edited by MarkMcL; 09-25-2015 at 04:47 PM.. Reason: pics
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      09-25-2015, 09:54 PM   #15
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I installed mine centered, as instructed by a few of my friends that work as BMW techs. It seems like the right way to go about it.

Also my old ones were in the center, for whatever that is worth.
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