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07-05-2016, 06:50 PM | #1 |
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Service Engine Soon light went on at smog station
So I head over to the local smog shop just now to get my car smogged. It's due Friday. They did my smog inspection two years ago, recommended by a BMW friend who takes lots of cars there. The guy starts up my car, looks at the dashboard and shuts it off. He said "Can't do it, your check engine light is on." I"m amazed, and doubtful, so I fire it up, and sure enough, "Service Engine Soon". WTF? That light has never been on before, I'm pretty sure it wasn't even on on my way there. I'm positive that it wasn't on last Friday, the last time I drove the car. I checked to make sure the gas cap clicked but the SES light was on all the way home.
So, I'm looking for one of my local BMW friends with a code reader, since I don't have one. The car is a 2006 Z4 M Roadster with 49,800 miles. It has an AFE intake and a Stromung exhaust, otherwise stock, except for the H&R Sport Springs. Anyone have any ideas (particularly if you live in CA)?
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07-05-2016, 07:47 PM | #2 |
salty cowboys fan
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Man talk about bad timing! Unfortunately, without knowing what fault codes are tripped, it'd really just be a guessing game on our part. You might be able to run by one of the auto parts stores (autozone, o'reilly, etc) and have them read the code for you if you can't find anybody to help
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07-05-2016, 08:05 PM | #3 |
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I posted on the Facebook page for our local BMW CCA page and someone mentioned Torque and an ODBII adapter. Duh! I've got an OBDLink LX that I bought a couple of years ago and forgot about it! I have Torque on my phone!
I hooked it up and ran Torque and it's reporting P1449 [BMW] Diagnostic Module Tank Leakage (DM-TL) Pump Too High. I have a tentative appointment at a local BMW indie shop tomorrow morning. I've done some Googling and it looks the DMTL pump may need to be replaced. It looks like it's a common part and very easy to replace (at least on non-Z4 models). Going to do some more research and find something more Z4 M specific. I can probably do it myself. EDIT: Apparently not so easy to replace on a Z4. Pelican Parts indicates that you have to either remove the rear bumper or the muffler to access the charcoal canister which has to be removed as the DMTL pump is inside the charcoal canister. If had time to get the car smogged a couple of weeks ago, I probably wouldn't have to deal with this or I would have had plenty of time to do it myself. Since my registration is due Friday, I'm going to have to bite the bullet and have the indie shop do it tomorrow.
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The Sedan: 2018 M3 | San Marino Blue | Black Full Merino Leather | CF Trim | M-DCT | ZCP | ED 7/18/18 The Roadster: 2006 Z4 | Interlagos Blue | Black Extended Nappa Leather | Carbon Leather Trim | Purchased 7/19/12 Last edited by SD ///M4; 07-05-2016 at 08:32 PM.. |
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07-05-2016, 08:57 PM | #4 |
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Hope it's something simple.
You can pass smog with an AFE intake? |
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07-05-2016, 09:20 PM | #5 | |
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Last edited by dc_wright; 07-05-2016 at 09:27 PM.. |
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07-06-2016, 10:18 AM | #6 |
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Those code readers are never really all that accurate. I had the first Check Engine light on the MZ4 Coupe ever at Spring Mountain 2 years ago, and several on-site scans shows secondary air pump code. I took it to my mechanic and his GT1 reads Mass Airflow Sensor. Sure enough, replaced the MAS and everything's honkey-dory.
My mechanic said that the M engines have a different code table/set and the generic readers don't often understand that particular nuance. Make sure you've read off the right code for the chassis.
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07-06-2016, 11:17 AM | #8 | |
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You have to drive the car until it registers 'readiness'
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07-06-2016, 05:04 PM | #9 |
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The "Critical Moment Detector" triggered.
All machines have them. Especially cars, printers, and copiers. Like when my Wife's Suburban wouldn't start and I had to take my Son to school. By this time we were running late, so my car went into limp mode 1/2 way there. Not for any good reason. It knew we were late and the truck was out of service, so it just wanted to mess with me.
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07-08-2016, 08:20 PM | #10 | |
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07-08-2016, 08:36 PM | #11 | ||
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He was going to run an evap test, but he said that apparently the Z4 M EDU/DME won't run that test. He cleared the code and said that the car had to get reset to readiness mode, as inTgr8r indicates above. His directions to do this are as follows:
Meanwhile, he also told me that you can pay the registration for your car but you won't get a tag until you pass smog and you have 30 days to do that. So I went to AAA, they confirmed this, I paid the registration and now I have until the end of July to get my smog done. The only problem is that my new M4 is being redelivered to my dealer on Monday, after my epic three-week European Delivery and I have to swap the stock pads back on the car and take off the Pagid RS29 pads I installed in Europe, install the M Performance Exhaust, and install all the CF goodies and gloss black trim items that I bought. I know, first world problems, but at least I have until the end of July to tend to my Z4 M Roadster, my original M!
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07-08-2016, 09:03 PM | #12 | |
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First, we opened the freezer door one morning on our side-by-side and ice dumped out all over the inside of the freezer and the kitchen floor. I got a bucket and dumped all the excess ice into the bucket, checked the sensors, they seemed OK, so I chalked that up to a fluke. The next day, same thing, so I turned off the ice maker. Next day, same thing, OK, something's broken and I called for a repair. Guy came out, replaced both the emitter and receptor, charged us the standard $60 charge under our recent home warranty plan, and it's been fine. (We bought the 12-month Sears Home Warranty earlier in the year because it was going to cost the same as replacing the faulty control pad on our wall-mount oven and that would also be covered. I guess it paid for itself!) About the same time, during a recent heat wave with temps in the 90s and over 100, the blower fan on the furnace wouldn't come on when the A/C compressor kicked on. I moved the fan switch from Auto to On, and it didn't come on. I then removed the furnace panel, reached in, and the fan spun freely indicating that nothing was binding and preventing it from turning. I set the temp down so the A/C compressor would come on, set the fan to On, then gave the fan a good spin and immediately put the panel in place, depressing the safety override switch. It worked! We left the fan on for a week before someone could come out and replace an $8.75 capacitor, and charged $100 to do that. The day after the ice maker got repaired, my wife helped me wash my car on a Saturday night for a cruise the next day. Between the time we went out to wash the car and came back in, there was water on the kitchen floor. We checked the ice maker, it looked ok, pulled out the refrigerator and checked the ice maker water line, and it was apparent that it wasn't coming from the refrigerator. The water was at the baseboard behind the refrigerator and at the baseboard of the pantry on the other side of the wall between the refrigerator and the pantry. I went out and turned off the water, opened all of the faucets in the house, and opened the outside spigot on the lowest side of the house to drain all the water out of the pipes. On Monday a plumber came out, punched a whole in the wall behind the refrigerator, and suspected a slab leak (it's been happening in our neighborhood over the last few years.) He said he had to call a hydro guy to find the leak. Hydro guy comes over a couple of hours later, hooks up his sensor and determines that the leak is coming from the wall between the refrigerator cubby and the pantry. He punches a hole in the wall in the pantry, near the baseboard, finds a manifold, and determines that the leak is coming from higher in the wall. He sees a pipe going upstairs, determines it's the toilet supply line, so he goes up to the master bath and punches a hole in the wall by the toilet shutoff valve. Nope, not there, so he goes back down to the pantry and punches another hole in the same wall, up by the ceiling. There's two small pinhole leaks in the pipe, spraying water onto the stud next to it, and it's going down the stud to be baseboard. We turn off the water again, he calls the plumber, plumber comes out the next morning and replaces that section of pipe. No more leak. At least it wasn't a slab leak! A pain in the ass without water though! At least I got my car washed! It was the day after that I went to the smog station. FML!
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07-08-2016, 09:04 PM | #13 |
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When my DTML pump started to die, it was intermittent at first. I've got the same OBD Link interface device as you and I was able to reset the CEL with their OBD Link app and it would be OK for a week or two and then the pump wouldn't run and it would come back. As your indie stated you can reset the CEL but the readiness has to reset on it's own after you run the required drive cycles. If the CEL is off and you get readiness status, I'd try getting it smogged as you stand a pretty good chance of getting through at this point. If your pump follows the same pattern mine did, the fails will get more frequent and then it hard fails.
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