Z4 M 1200 mile service, what does it consist of?

[kmrbmw]

I do my service on my car religiously. Oil at every 7500 mile and of course I did my 1200 mile service at 1150 miles.

My car has 21,000 miles on it now and I was considering changing all the fluids, like the dealer does during the 1200 mile service.

Questions :

- What does the 1200 mile service consist of?
- Is it worth doing at 21k or should I wait till 30k?
- How much should it cost? MY BMW dealership is quoting $860plus tax
- What else should I consider, i.e. brake fluid, coolant, etc…

[Dammmittt]

I'm confused by this, are you talking about the break-in service or the inspection 1? Either way it's in your service manual, but if you want a more detailed breakdown...
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...2&postcount=22

[kmrbmw]

Sorry, I meant the 1200 mile break in service

My question concerns extra maintenance on my part, not just scheduled,

[Cosmo335i]

Oil change and software download

[nmulax]

The 1.2k service consist of engine oil, transmission and differential fluid change, and valve inspection I believe. As for doing it now; I'd save your money and hold off. The valve adjustment should be done around 15k miles, but the trans/diff fluid are good for a while.

Inspection I should be $200-300+ range, Inspection II should be in the $500-800+ range. So sounds like a fair price; but not a great deal. Brake fluid should be changed every two years. Probably sooner if you track the car.

[jmillet]

Originally Posted by nmulax

The 1.2k service consist of engine oil, transmission and differential fluid change, and valve inspection I believe. As for doing it now; I'd save your money and hold off. The valve adjustment should be done around 15k miles, but the trans/diff fluid are good for a while.

Inspection I should be $200-300+ range, Inspection II should be in the $500-800+ range. So sounds like a fair price; but not a great deal. Brake fluid should be changed every two years. Probably sooner if you track the car.

The BMW NA Service Maintenance Checklist outlines recommended services and frequency:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...2&postcount=21
You'll note there is no valve inspection done at the 1200 mile service. Check and adjust valves is an Inspection I service. Note that all Inspection I items are also done at Inspection II. Your Service Interval Display will normally go negative for the first Inspection I at around 25,000 miles not 15,000 miles.
If you're getting your Inspection I done for $200 to $300 then I'd find another shop; the valve check and adjustment alone will usually run at least $400. I'd budget at least $600 for Inspection I and $800 for Inspection II on a E85/86 M machine.
Good info on your Z4 can be found on the Bimmerfest Z4 FAQ.

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by nmulax

Inspection I should be $200-300+ range, Inspection II should be in the $500-800+ range.

Are you nuts?

Inspection II is way more then 500$ in parts alone and that's at wholesale price. A cheap independent shop would charge at least $800 for it if not more, dealer is usually 1200+ and a good indy shop that actually does what they are supposed to would probably charge 900-1000.

[trsbmw]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Are you nuts?

Inspection II is way more then 500$ in parts alone and that's at wholesale price. A cheap independent shop would charge at least $800 for it if not more, dealer is usually 1200+ and a good indy shop that actually does what they are supposed to would probably charge 900-1000.

$500 in parts, wholesale? Is this presuming that a lot of the checks performed expose parts requiring replacement?

To me, the only things requiring replacement at Inspection 2, according to the BMW list, are:

Engine Oil
Tranny fluid
Diff fluid
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
Shims for Valve Adjustment
Cabin micro filter

maybe I am wrong, But I dont think the price of the above parts adds up to 500. (I dont know the price for the bmw drive train fluids, I use redline, which is probably way cheaper)

I agree that 1200 would probably be the right price at the dealer.(the labor for the valve adjustment is probably a big chunk)

I say just do all of the fluid / filter changes yourself, if you dont know how, learn how. Do the valve adjustment yourself too! (but if you have to learn how to change some fluids, you probably aren't ready to tackle a valve adjustment..)

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by trsbmw

$500 in parts, wholesale? Is this presuming that a lot of the checks performed expose parts requiring replacement?

To me, the only things requiring replacement at Inspection 2, according to the BMW list, are:

Engine Oil
Tranny fluid
Diff fluid
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
Shims for Valve Adjustment
Cabin micro filter

maybe I am wrong, But I dont think the price of the above parts adds up to 500. (I dont know the price for the bmw drive train fluids, I use redline, which is probably way cheaper)

I agree that 1200 would probably be the right price at the dealer.(the labor for the valve adjustment is probably a big chunk)

I say just do all of the fluid / filter changes yourself, if you dont know how, learn how. Do the valve adjustment yourself too! (but if you have to learn how to change some fluids, you probably aren't ready to tackle a valve adjustment..)

Unfortunately that's the problem when people who have no experience or knowledge on a subject "think" or give advice. It's usually wrong. Not to be a dick but those thinking it's a $300 job clearly have neither.

A short list of the 100% required things for an inspection II, not even including all the parts required to be replaced and lacking ~ $400-500 worth of labor.

You also should use only BMW fluids in your diff, and I wouldn't use redline in my tranny either.

Engine oil 6x 9$ = $54
Oil Filter $10
Tranny fluid 5 liter @ 150, 2.5 liter needed = $75
Diff fluid $40 a bottle x3 = $120 (If you dare use the non additive stuff then $50)
Spark plugs 6 x $18 =108
Microfilter $40
Engine filter $25
Valve cover gasket $35 (Required for valve shimming)
Sealing rings 6 x $7 = 42 (ditto)

= $509 Parts alone WHOLESALE (NOT including many many hours in labor and you will be billed more for the parts by almost $100).

And that is not including some other not included things like wiper blade inserts. As I stopped when I got to $500 or things that are not required specifically at inspection II but a good idea like brake fluid flush or a coolant flush.






This is also not a DIY job unless you want to run the very easy risk of having to tow it to someplace that actually knows what they are doing and pray that they manage to find the shim you dropped before it tears your engine apart. Not to mention the likely possibility you forget to put a retaining clip back in or accidentally shim the clearance wrong.

[jragan]

Sorry to hijack, but why wouldn't Inspection-I be covered under BMW's free-maintenance plan? My inspection message just started counting negative at just over 20k (I always do oil changes at my indy every 3k).

[jmillet]

Originally Posted by jragan

Sorry to hijack, but why wouldn't Inspection-I be covered under BMW's free-maintenance plan? My inspection message just started counting negative at just over 20k (I always do oil changes at my indy every 3k).

You're correct; as long as your Bimmer is within 4 years/50,000 miles, whichever comes first, it's covered by the BMW Maintenance Program.
I do all the maintenance myself because I have the time and experience and I know the job is done correctly. I don't have to worry about the oil being overfilled or the valves not properly checked and adjusted.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=22

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by jmillet

the valves not properly checked and adjusted.

If the places around here speak for the country, I don't think any dealer really knows how to do it right or does it right or even bothers.

[trsbmw]

[QUOTE=O-cha;6219470]

You also should use only BMW fluids in your diff, and I wouldn't use redline in my tranny either.

[QUOTE]

Just curious, why wouldn't you use redline?

Redline 75w140 has the appropriate additives for the variable limited slip in the m diff and is the specified viscosity (same as the castrol saf-xj).

I have only heard good things, until now, about Redline MTL use in all manual transmissions.

[O-cha]

[QUOTE=trsbmw;6223054][QUOTE=O-cha;6219470]

You also should use only BMW fluids in your diff, and I wouldn't use redline in my tranny either.

Just curious, why wouldn't you use redline?

Redline 75w140 has the appropriate additives for the variable limited slip in the m diff and is the specified viscosity (same as the castrol saf-xj).

I have only heard good things, until now, about Redline MTL use in all manual transmissions.

There's a difference between friction additive and the stuff in the BMW fluid, it's two different additives.

As for the tranny, it's just not good fluid.

[jmillet]

[QUOTE=O-cha;6223983][QUOTE=trsbmw;6223054]

Originally Posted by O-cha

You also should use only BMW fluids in your diff, and I wouldn't use redline in my tranny either.
There's a difference between friction additive and the stuff in the BMW fluid, it's two different additives.
As for the tranny, it's just not good fluid.

I too use the BMW Castrol fluids for both transmission and differential, but for a different reason than O-cha: the car is still under factory warranty.
Once out of warranty I'll switch to Red Line products: MTL for transmission and 75W-140 for differential. I used Red Line lubs in my 1995 E36 M3 as well as my 2000 E36/8 Z3M Coupe with good results and lots of track driving school miles.