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      09-15-2017, 05:25 PM   #1
JAS1169
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Hydraulic line change out for top lifter.

Has any member replaced a hydraulic line for the convertible top lifter? I need to replace the bottom drivers side line . I known how it is attached to the pump. However, the line in question is the bottom line which basically plugs into a hole in the lifter and then is secured to the lifter via a plate by a screw.

I obtained the BMW Z4 Motor repair kit (banjo screws/crush washers etc) which, in addition has some screw, plates and clips for attaching hydraulic lines to lifters. However, it also has black caulk.

My question, is this black caulk used to attach the hydo line to the lifter?

The only other reason I can guess for this black caulk is if their was a leak at the Crush washers.

I've reached out to a few people and have not had any responses on this question. I've also went thru the D/I/Y section of this and other forums and found nothing on installing hydo lines to pumps.

Thanks in advance for any info.
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      09-15-2017, 05:39 PM   #2
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It's not mentioned in any of the bulletins I've collected. The only reference that might explain the caulk is this:

If hydraulic components are to be stored for an extended period, seal off bores on hydraulic unit and hose connections for hydraulic cylinder.

Important!
If line connections on the hydraulic unit or the hydraulic lines remain open for an extended period of time (e.g. storage, maintenance time), they must be protected against the penetration of moisture.

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      09-15-2017, 05:54 PM   #3
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I did find mention of using RTV in a PDF I have saved. They talk about using RTF sealant on the plastic motor housing to seal the motor completely.

"I placed RTV all along the inner housing seam, in and around the wire and piping penetrations, then put the cover on then put more RTV on the outside seam. Sealing it up."

If you want these PDFs I have saved, just shoot me a PM here, and I'll get them to you. I've tried to collect as much info as I can on the Z4M, and I printed quite a few PDFs, because I kept noticing how when image hosting would go down, it would decimate the knowledge base of forums. The PDFs were my way of preserving the info.

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      09-15-2017, 06:23 PM   #4
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Here's a picture of that repair kit.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/54347114081/

What look's like a white ribbon with a black line is actually the caulk. It is incased in a white plastic back with a clear plastic front. The caulk could almost pass for tar and is about as thick as a rounded shoe lace.

Has anyone installed the lower hydo line without using this stuff (caulk) and have been alright (no leaks) or is this part of installing a line.
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      09-15-2017, 09:43 PM   #5
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The black caulk goes around the center seam of the hydraulic pump housing in a futile attempt to seal it against water incursion when the top compartment drains get plugged and water floods it.

In Shipkiller's motor replacement DIY he uses RTV liberally which has a much better chance of making an effective and lasting seal.

The hydraulic fittings use a copper crush washer for sealing. A new pump comes with threaded plugs in the hydraulic line connection points. Save these and use them to plug the pump you removed.

On the hydraulic line mating to the lift cylinder, there's a small o-ring that sits in the hole the line plugs into. Be very careful when you remove the hose fitting from the lift cylinder that the o-ring doesn't come out with it and get lost.
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      09-16-2017, 08:05 PM   #6
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Thank you

I honestly was baffled by the black caulk. Worse, it's use confused me.

I was forced to pull my motor, thru the trunk, from a pond in my Z4(I took a picture afterwards of the pond). I purchased a new motor to pull the top but when I pulled the red Bowden cable---nothing, it had also failed.

My bottom hydo line sort of looked like a dog chew toy and the pond in my car was a rich odd green Yea, the lower cable was shot. I'm sure my pulling on the motor didn't help. Yet, had I taken it to the dealer there S.O.P. for this double failure (motor/red release cable) is to cut the hydo lines....

Soooo I won't be using this black caulk because there's no way after a motor failure, followed by the red emergency release failure would I ever allow the motor (only way to release the pressure on the hydo system) to be placed beyond my reach. The old motor and lines are currently in my trunk and after changing out the lines, I'll install the new motor. It's remaining in the trunk

Also thanks for the tip on the small o ring on the lifter.
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      09-24-2017, 07:21 PM   #7
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Update

Looks like I'll be pulling the top and exchanging the hydo line on either 10/7 or 10/8, that's when my son in law has time to help (could change and be later)

I found two z4 top repair video's which I haven't seen before. However, they both are in Spanish (I don't speak this).

The first is taking the top off, This actually shows the top being lifted off.



The second is a video on installing new hydo lines to the lifter. This is the first video (in Spanish or otherwise) which I've seen on installing Hydo lines to lifters.

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      09-24-2017, 08:24 PM   #8
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Cool. Thanks for posting the videos. If you click on Settings (Gear), then Closed Caption, and change to Auto-Translate and then select English, you'll get subtitles in English. Woot!

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      09-24-2017, 08:42 PM   #9
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Thank you salty. I honestly, had no idea that there was a way to translate this.

Yea, I posted these, because were all sort of in the same boat with this issue and in my view, ever little bit of info helps.
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      09-24-2017, 08:52 PM   #10
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I have several PDFs with pics of removing the top, relocating the pump to the trunk, etc. If you run into any snags and need 'em, just shoot me a PM, and I'll find a way to get them to you.

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      09-24-2017, 08:58 PM   #11
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I had this little blurb saved, as well. No pics, but a desc. e from:

"Just sharing this I replaced my motor in a few hours all these people taking their tops completely off are nuts... Just take all the bolts around the trunk area top to free up the part that attaches to the car trunk, take the two bolts that hold the top to the car, then you wiggle the rear top glass section so the rail part sits partially on the deck of the car use a towel so no scratches and pull up on the drivers side about 8 inches and boom your there.... Only remove drivers side..... The two bolts are super easy to get too..... Don't be scared it's easy, I tossed the foam inside that was soaked, reused the plastic case added some dense foam, and spray foamed the upper part inside the plastic case and used massive silicone around it, zip tied it shut, drilled 3 more holes for water to drain and will cross my fingers, however if it goes out again it was super easy to get too.... Works perfect now and I am super happy-- this is on a 2004 z4"

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      10-28-2023, 04:22 PM   #12
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Pics of hinges/hydrsulic cylinder placements?

Does anyone have pics of the soft top lift cylimders in place that would show where they attach and what part of the frame they push? I am trying to make an electric roof for my '78 Triumph using Z4 hydraulics but it seems to be really hard to find pics or videos that show how the cylinders operate the roof. My bf has a Z4 but it would be a ton of work to disassemble the roof just to see the cylinder placement since it doesn't need any repairs.

So if someone has pics of the cylinders in place or is currently doing repairs on their z4 roof it would be great if you could share them. Thanks
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