UUC ClutchStop

[mfanatic325]

I bought one of these recently from UUC, but am confused at the provided washer and nut. Isn't it just supposed to thread into the existing clutch stop hole?

Also, when I tried to thread it all the way in, the clutch still couldn't clear the starter mark (couldn't start the car). Which probably means it also can't disengage the clutch properly.

Has anyone had to file these down to work properly?

[inTgr8r]

You have to cut a piece off.
IIRC almost half of the thread.

The nut is so that you can adjust the height then lock it in place.

[mfanatic325]

Ohhh okay, so I do have to cut the threading. I like how that was never mentioned by UUC

Or is it just cuz our clutch stop's thread hole is shallower than other cars?
In other words, our holes are smaller

[inTgr8r]

UUC doesn't list the E85/86 as fitting because of this.
It's worth the minor agro though.
The UUC is much more solid than the others.

BMW Model*
E28, E30, E36, E39, E46, Z3, Z8

[Diokaef]

You can move that clutch switch it's very easy, I made my own clutch stop from urethane resin I can post some pictures of how to move the switch, you don't need to cut the clutch stop, I use almost a 3/4" Tall on mine.

[inTgr8r]

^ that would be great.
I was going to look into adjusting the switch.

...you still have to cut the UUC stop though, it's higher than the clutch engagement point.

[Diokaef]

Mine is 3/4" plus the stud, I will mesure and let you know as well.

[Incompatible]

Originally Posted by mfanatic325

I bought one of these recently from UUC, but am confused at the provided washer and nut. Isn't it just supposed to thread into the existing clutch stop hole?

Also, when I tried to thread it all the way in, the clutch still couldn't clear the starter mark (couldn't start the car). Which probably means it also can't disengage the clutch properly.

If you're bottoming out in the hole then some of the shaft length needs to come off. Set the adjustment with a little bit of pedal over travel: not to tight, to allow for full clutch disengagement and/or starter engagement. The washer and nut are used to tighten the shaft against the base ("existing hole") to prevent movement of the stop once correctly adjusted. You can also use blue (medium strength) thread locker in place of the washer and nut. Do not use red (permanant) thread locker!

[onebluemcm]

FWIW, In my former M3, I bought a $2 stainless bolt, washer, and nut, got a customized length and fitted an adhesive felt pad (like you put on the bottom of furniture legs on hard wood floors) on the top of it do deaden the impact. Works great, even though the head of it is possibly smaller than the aftermarket ones I don't see how the pedal arm could slip around it, and about 1/10th the cost of an aftermarket rubber covered bolt that you have to cut to get to fit right. FWIW...

[mfanatic325]

Hmm...thinking about selling my clutch stop. Too lazy to go through the hassle of cutting the threading. Anyone interested in buying? I'll sell for like $25 shipped.

[RBull]

I just cut about a 1/2" off the threaded shaft. Definitely more beefy than OE.

[mfanatic325]

Originally Posted by RBull

I just cut about a 1/2" off the threaded shaft. Definitely more beefy than OE.

How did it match up in terms of threading? I guess you cut it really straight-on huh?

[Incompatible]

Originally Posted by onebluemcm

FWIW, In my former M3, I bought a $2 stainless bolt, washer, and nut, got a customized length and fitted an adhesive felt pad (like you put on the bottom of furniture legs on hard wood floors) on the top of it do deaden the impact. Works great, even though the head of it is possibly smaller than the aftermarket ones I don't see how the pedal arm could slip around it, and about 1/10th the cost of an aftermarket rubber covered bolt that you have to cut to get to fit right. FWIW...

Another variation of this is to buy a furniture leveling foot for about $3.00 from the local hardware (Ace, Home Depot...) and shorten to fit. These have the large diameter metal/rubber base already attached. The threads are US, but are close enough to the metric diameter/thread count that you won't have a problem. Works like a charm.

[onebluemcm]

Originally Posted by mfanatic325

How did it match up in terms of threading? I guess you cut it really straight-on huh?

Your cut in a situation like this can be a little off and it will work. First of all, the cut end won't be visible and second, with a small file, typically you can dress up the first threads so that it will thread right in with no problems. Shouldn't have to be dead on to be ok.

[RBull]

It was no problem at. As was said by pmebluemcm you can be off some and just do a small filing if needed. In my case none was needed. It easily threaded right in.

Originally Posted by mfanatic325

How did it match up in terms of threading? I guess you cut it really straight-on huh?

[mfanatic325]

hmmm maybe I'll try it then. So about 1/2 inch cut should be good enough yeah?

[inTgr8r]

One trick is to leave the nut on until after cutting & filing.
Then remove the nut & it will smooth the threads a bit more.
If you have a vise it's a 60sec job.

[mfanatic325]

I'm still not picturing where the nut and washer are supposed to go. Anyone have some sort of diagram? I'm a visual learner

[Blind32]

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showp...62&postcount=2

Is what I did. Still had to cut it tho. Dremel FTW!

[onebluemcm]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

One trick is to leave the nut on until after cutting & filing.
Then remove the nut & it will smooth the threads a bit more.
If you have a vise it's a 60sec job.

this is a good point - pay attention

Originally Posted by mfanatic325

I'm still not picturing where the nut and washer are supposed to go. Anyone have some sort of diagram? I'm a visual learner

Visualize this then - you have the bolt in your hand - you thread on the nut and then you slide the washer on behind the nut - there will be nothing between the washer and the end of the bolt. So, you now have, from one end to the other, rubber end of bolt, threaded part of bolt, nut, washer, more threaded bolt and then the end of the threads. You then take the bolt and screw it into the threaded insert where the original clutch stop was. You fiddle with it getting it the right distance from the floor so that the clutch disengages fully, but the bolt is out as far as possible. Then, once you've got the right location, you hold the stud still and thread the nut&washer down tightening them against the threaded insert in the firewall to lock the bolt in place and viola! Done deal!

[mfanatic325]

Originally Posted by onebluemcm

this is a good point - pay attention



Visualize this then - you have the bolt in your hand - you thread on the nut and then you slide the washer on behind the nut - there will be nothing between the washer and the end of the bolt. So, you now have, from one end to the other, rubber end of bolt, threaded part of bolt, nut, washer, more threaded bolt and then the end of the threads. You then take the bolt and screw it into the threaded insert where the original clutch stop was. You fiddle with it getting it the right distance from the floor so that the clutch disengages fully, but the bolt is out as far as possible. Then, once you've got the right location, you hold the stud still and thread the nut&washer down tightening them against the threaded insert in the firewall to lock the bolt in place and viola! Done deal!

Oh SNAP! I think I see the light =]
That was very enlightening lolol thanks!
This is all of course assuming I've already made the cut on the bolt thread correct? Cuz otherwise I don't see how I could adjust the clutchstop to where the clutch engagement point is. I guess I will try it then. Dremel, here I come >=D

[RBull]

That's how I did mine since I used the nut to hold it in the vice.

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

One trick is to leave the nut on until after cutting & filing.
Then remove the nut & it will smooth the threads a bit more.
If you have a vise it's a 60sec job.