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      05-17-2010, 08:59 AM   #1
mousitch
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Any brake flush tips?

Doing a complete brake flush this weekend. Got a Bavauto pressure bleeder and two cans of super blue. Any tips? Also will this flush the clutch as well or will it have to be bled seperate? I just dont want to mix fluids.
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      05-17-2010, 09:26 AM   #2
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http://m3.madrussian.net/diy.shtml .

You'll need to bleed the clutch separately -- Make sure you never let the fluid level in the reservoir get anywhere near the min-mark or you'll be spending the next hour getting air out of your clutch.

Unless you trigger the ABS system, you're going to have some mix.
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      05-17-2010, 10:03 AM   #3
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Did you do the tap and bleed 3 times on each caliper finish as suggested? Wonder how big a deal it would be to skip that one
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      05-17-2010, 10:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitch View Post
Did you do the tap and bleed 3 times on each caliper finish as suggested? Wonder how big a deal it would be to skip that one
I tap before I bleed. Whether it does anything or not, it doesn't hurt and takes, literally, three extra seconds, so why not?
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      05-17-2010, 10:15 AM   #5
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Very cool. So after putting to the reservoir you just tap each caliper than bleed til fluid changes color? Sound reasonably easy.
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Last edited by mousitch; 05-17-2010 at 10:29 AM..
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      05-17-2010, 10:26 AM   #6
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I highly recommend getting flare nut wrenches for loosening the bleeder valve at the caliper.
They will prevent a potential major headache of using an open spanner.


Also;
A quick method for doing the clutch fluid.
- Remove the old fluid with the turkey baster.
- refill with new.
- pump clutch 20x (approx) & repeat.
Then do it again in a couple of weeks.

Not a pure drain & flush method but it gets most of it & it's easy.
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      05-18-2010, 09:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
I highly recommend getting flare nut wrenches for loosening the bleeder valve at the caliper.
They will prevent a potential major headache of using an open spanner.


Also;
A quick method for doing the clutch fluid.
- Remove the old fluid with the turkey baster.
- refill with new.
- pump clutch 20x (approx) & repeat.
Then do it again in a couple of weeks.

Not a pure drain & flush method but it gets most of it & it's easy.
Ditto on the turkey baster - I removed as much fluid from the master cylinder reservoir as possible, then refilled with new, tapped the reservoir a few times to make sure all the bubbles rose to the top, then proceeded with the bleeding process.

Flare nut wrench is a good thing to have, but box end wrenches will work also since there is no line coming off the bleeder screw. Just another thought.

As to getting the ABS pump flushed, I had seen on the M3forums that if you have the ignition in the on position (engine not running) and depress the brake pedal while doing the bleeding, it will activate and cycle the ABS pump. You'd have to think about how to do this with your pressure bleeder too - maybe start at each corner by manual bleeding using the brake pedal and a buddy, and then switch to the pump for the rest of the bleed, I don't know. I can tell you I bled the brakes in my M3 the manual way with my wife pressing the brake pedal and it went smoothly, and didn't take too long either.

One definite, definite word of caution with the bleeders - if that thing comes loose from the master cylinder and gets brake fluid on any painted surface, you will have major paint damage - the stuff is real bad for paint. I have seen a couple of bleeders burst off from the master and it's a mess to say the least. I guess I'd use it if I were sure it was secure, but I didn't have one and doing it the manual way nearly guarantees minimal risk of brake fluid getting on any painted surface (just wrap towels around the master to catch drips from filling.
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      05-18-2010, 11:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebluemcm View Post
As to getting the ABS pump flushed, I had seen on the M3forums that if you have the ignition in the on position (engine not running) and depress the brake pedal while doing the bleeding, it will activate and cycle the ABS pump. You'd have to think about how to do this with your pressure bleeder too - maybe start at each corner by manual bleeding using the brake pedal and a buddy, and then switch to the pump for the rest of the bleed, I don't know. I can tell you I bled the brakes in my M3 the manual way with my wife pressing the brake pedal and it went smoothly, and didn't take too long either.
I don't think you'd need to activate the ABS pump for each corner. Isn't it a centralized unit? Meaning, once it is cycled/activated whatever air or old fluid will be purged into the system and ready for "removal" during the normal procedure. Here's what I think would work for someone using a pressure bleeder...
1) Turkey baste the old fluid out of the MC.
2) Fill the MC with new fluid.
3) Attach the pressure bleeder to the MC with a bottle of fluid in there and pressurize.
4) Go to the corners and bleed fluid until it looks clean and/or bubbles stop coming out.
5) De-pressurize the bleeder and remove.
6) Top off the MC with new fluid.
7) Have a friend sit down and turn the ignition on. Have them pump the brakes 15-20 times and on the last pump have them stay down on the pedal while you open the valve. Close the valve. Your friend can release the brake pedal once the valve is closed.
Perhaps do this at the driver's side front so whatever comes out of the ABS pump has a short distance to travel? This step, I would think, should flush out whatever is discharged from the ABS pump.

I actually do both a pressurized and manual bleed/flush. I use a Motive Bleeder and open the valves at each corner to pull new fluid through the system. Then I do the manual pump routine with a friend pumping 10-15 times and holding on the last pump while I open the valve. I do this for all corners.

Quote:
Originally Posted by onebluemcm View Post
One definite, definite word of caution with the bleeders - if that thing comes loose from the master cylinder and gets brake fluid on any painted surface, you will have major paint damage - the stuff is real bad for paint. I have seen a couple of bleeders burst off from the master and it's a mess to say the least. I guess I'd use it if I were sure it was secure, but I didn't have one and doing it the manual way nearly guarantees minimal risk of brake fluid getting on any painted surface (just wrap towels around the master to catch drips from filling.
Have you ever seen this happen? It is one of the most horrifying experiences short of a jack stand shifting while you're under a car. It isn't like you can just quickly wipe it off... almost on contact the damage is done! And another word of caution. Use latex/nitrile gloves if you're handling brake fluid. It is extremely bad for your kidneys (and liver, too) and can be absorbed through your skin.
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      05-18-2010, 12:44 PM   #9
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Thanks for the tips!. So after the intial bleed with the pressure bleeder just turn on ignition and pump 15-20. Then hold down and open driver side front valve. Correct? How long should i let the valve drain for the ABS?
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      05-18-2010, 12:50 PM   #10
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^ I would confirm with a tech re the ABS.
I know for certain, on other brands they tell you specifically to NOT cycle the ABS.
It can lead to air entrapment which is a PITA to resolve.
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      05-18-2010, 12:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
^ I would confirm with a tech re the ABS.
I know for certain, on other brands they tell you specifically to NOT cycle the ABS.
It can lead to air entrapment which is a PITA to resolve.
Might just stick with a normal flush. Cant see the ABS holding a large amount of fluid anyway. Suppose it wont harm anything to mix Super Blue with OEM?
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      05-18-2010, 01:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitch View Post
Might just stick with a normal flush. Cant see the ABS holding a large amount of fluid anyway.
Agreed. I was just hypothesizing a possible procedure if you did want to cycle the ABS pump.

My routine has always been to simply light up the ABS system with one hard stop after bleed/flush. I find that this always firms up the peddle quite a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitch View Post
Suppose it wont harm anything to mix Super Blue with OEM?
Non-issue. Technically speaking *may* lower the boiling points but it'd be a negligible difference.
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      08-03-2011, 06:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jragan View Post
http://m3.madrussian.net/diy.shtml .

You'll need to bleed the clutch separately -- Make sure you never let the fluid level in the reservoir get anywhere near the min-mark or you'll be spending the next hour getting air out of your clutch.

Unless you trigger the ABS system, you're going to have some mix.

Is this weblink a reliable source in relation to brake & clutch bleeding????
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      08-04-2011, 05:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebluemcm View Post

One definite, definite word of caution with the bleeders - if that thing comes loose from the master cylinder and gets brake fluid on any painted surface, you will have major paint damage - the stuff is real bad for paint.
To be safe, you can use the pressure bleeder without putting fluid into it--fill the master cylinder with fluid, attach the dry bleeder and pressurize. Less convenient, but this minimizes the risk of a leak or blow-off getting fluid on the paint. (My Motive leaks at some of the hose joints when I put 20 pounds on pressure on it...less than that doesn't move fluid at a decent pace.). Just mask sure you stay on top of the fluid level so you don't pump air into the lines.
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      09-27-2012, 01:12 AM   #15
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I have used a pressure bleeder for years on a variety of race cars. All you really need is 3-5 lbs of pressure and a little patience. In fact, the most thorough way to bleed is the drip method. Admittedly messy, it definitely works and works well on multiple piston calipers with crossover lines. My experience only....
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      11-26-2015, 09:57 AM   #16
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Where is the bleed valve for the clutch?
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      11-26-2015, 10:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bossdog View Post
Where is the bleed valve for the clutch?
It's on the rear of the slave cylinder on the left hand side of the transmission. Here's some photos of the slave cylinder that show the bleeder.

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-33..._All/ES241919/
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      11-26-2015, 10:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
It's on the rear of the slave cylinder on the left hand side of the transmission. Here's some photos of the slave cylinder that show the bleeder.

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-33..._All/ES241919/


Do I bleed it like the brakes? Open valve, compress pedal, close valve, release pedal. Repeat ?

Last edited by Bossdog; 11-26-2015 at 10:55 AM..
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      11-26-2015, 10:50 AM   #19
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I just acquired my Z4M this summer, 2006 with 38K miles. I am assuming the brakes have not been serviced so I intend to flush the brake lines fully. I am considering pulling out the 10-year old brake lines and putting in the SS. Is that a waste if time & money? I will not be tracking this car, only Autocross events. (they are $20 off at Turner this weekend)

Thanks for your input.
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      11-26-2015, 02:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bossdog View Post
Do I bleed it like the brakes? Open valve, compress pedal, close valve, release pedal. Repeat ?
Yep, just like the brakes. The clutch master cylinder shares the reservoir with the brake master cylinder so make certain you watch the fluid level. If you run it dry bleeding the clutch system you have to start over and bleed the brakes again too. If you're going to be doing the flushing yourself going forward, it's well worth buying a pressure bleeder by the way.
I wouldn't say the SS lines are a waste of money, but 10 years isn't really old for brake lines. My 3.0si is also an '06 and I've had the calipers off and on a number of times and checked the condition of the outer surface of the brake lines and it's not showing any signs of oxidation or any other degradation. Unless the system has had a lot of moisture in it, the outside of the brake hoses usually gives you some idea of what the general condition of the hose is.
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      03-19-2016, 09:11 AM   #21
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I know this is an old thread but I'm a newbie so I decided to resurrect it. Anyone ever use this vacuum type bleeder from Harbor Freight?

http://m.harborfreight.com/brake-flu...not%20provided

Although you need a compressor to use it, seems like an effective way to flush and you can use it to remove old fluid from the master reservoir as well. Half the price of the motive pressure bleeder which is appealing to me given the very few times I'll be using it.
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      03-19-2016, 11:37 AM   #22
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Sorry can't help with the question but I will add a tip. Soak the bleeder screw with penetrating oil prior to trying to loosen it. It will save you a major headache of the bleeder screw breaking off.
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