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      10-09-2012, 05:54 PM   #1
SCHMOUPE
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euro header install and now SES

I installed the euro headers a few months ago and finally got around relocating the o2 sensors to the secondary cat. Now I am getting a P0158 rear O2 sensor voltage too high fault and SES. Cleared the code ans it keeps coming back. Need your expertise? What should I do?
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      10-09-2012, 08:44 PM   #2
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Interesting... I get low voltage heater.... in bank 1 sensor 2

I'm going to un-bolt the header and make sure all have the gaskets.... I already replaced the rest of the gaskets and the sensor... no luck yet.
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      10-09-2012, 08:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffchaPz View Post
Interesting... I get low voltage heater.... in bank 1 sensor 2

I'm going to un-bolt the header and make sure all have the gaskets.... I already replaced the rest of the gaskets and the sensor... no luck yet.
yours is the pre cat O2 sensors and has to get straightened out but mine is the stinky rear one. I am tempted to go get one of those O2 simulators. I took the entire exhaust piping off the car last weekend and it took me a good 4-5 hours. Not doing that again since it is getting cold out. Sigh!
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      10-09-2012, 09:43 PM   #4
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NO NO... sensor 2 in the back.... my car runs nice right now with euro headers, but I had the SES light for the past 2-3 months first day since I install my new headers and I've tried multiple things and I can't find the problem.

Right now I can only think of two things that I need double check.. the gaskets between the engine and the headers or the right rear bung was not welded correctly and there is a leak. I highly doubt I need a new set of cats.
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      10-09-2012, 10:52 PM   #5
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interesting indeed. I get the high voltage, you get the low.

Did you relocate your sensors or cut into them and extend. BTW, there is an Evolve tune which claims they can turn of the secondary O2 sensors. I might go that route if I dont figure it out since I am due for inspection in 6 months or so but the car will be in storage the majority of that time
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      10-13-2012, 07:03 AM   #6
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Please can you post a picture of the relocated sensors? I have been running with relocated sensors for over 2 years and even passed the NJ OBD2 inspection last month without issues. If you are on stock software, it may be the way reloc was done and/or you O2 connectors are flipped.

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      10-13-2012, 06:15 PM   #7
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Hello my NJ friends.... I made sure to label the front and rear sensor with blue tape before removing them the first time so I'm sure they were not mixed or anything like that.

I just checked and changed the gasket between the engine and the header on bank 1.... I started the car for few mins but the SES still there. I haven't gone out for a drive to see if it goes away - but if it doesn't I might two suspects in mind 1. the air filter orange outer layer/gasket was pinched and it might be letting air from the side. 2 I forgot to check for the freaken fuse... I know there are fuses for the O2 sensors.... just don't know which fuse(s) to look for.

Anyone knows where the fuse(s) for bank1 Sensor 2 is ???
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      10-13-2012, 07:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pal View Post
Please can you post a picture of the relocated sensors? I have been running with relocated sensors for over 2 years and even passed the NJ OBD2 inspection last month without issues. If you are on stock software, it may be the way reloc was done and/or you O2 connectors are flipped.

Hey shiv, you might have not realized its me since I changed my screen name. I took the car to mufflex with your pictures and they did the bungs very similar to yours. The trouble was when relocating the o2s one of them was too shortso based on recommendation of mufflex man I cut into it and extended it. This seems to be the trouble area. I got my hands on another o2 wire and am planning on taking it apart and rerouting the o2 this time by cutting through the heat shield. Regardless my check engine light went off 2 nights ago although the fault is still there. Interesting!
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      10-13-2012, 07:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffchaPz View Post
Hello my NJ friends.... I made sure to label the front and rear sensor with blue tape before removing them the first time so I'm sure they were not mixed or anything like that.

I just checked and changed the gasket between the engine and the header on bank 1.... I started the car for few mins but the SES still there. I haven't gone out for a drive to see if it goes away - but if it doesn't I might two suspects in mind 1. the air filter orange outer layer/gasket was pinched and it might be letting air from the side. 2 I forgot to check for the freaken fuse... I know there are fuses for the O2 sensors.... just don't know which fuse(s) to look for.

Anyone knows where the fuse(s) for bank1 Sensor 2 is ???
Jeff I am no pro but I would assume if anything is flipped you would get 2 errors. Is your o2 wire intact? My gut feeling including my own issue the fact that my o2 is cut into.
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      10-13-2012, 08:03 PM   #10
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Wires twisted too much threading them in?
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      10-16-2012, 10:30 PM   #11
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Hello gents.... well on Sunday night I found out about the fuse for the for the o2 sensors and it turned out it was blown. I replaced it and drove the car for about 30 minutes but SES light stayed on.

Monday night I checked for errors and codes and when I clicked on read errors... everything cleared and the errors weren't there anymore and the SES light went off (strange).

Today after 15-20 miles the light came back on. I just checked again for errors and I see the errors on the last pic of the 3... so it sounds like my white wires which I had to cut in order to extend to reach the back of the cats might be twisted.... I'm getting a little frustrated now.
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      10-17-2012, 02:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffchaPz
so it sounds like my white wires which I had to cut in order to extend to reach the back of the cats might be twisted.... I'm getting a little frustrated now.
So you cut & extended yours, rather than 'unfolding' them to achieve the proper length?
That could be your problem right there. They are extremely sensitive to this, as minuscule changes to impedance is enough to trigger a fault (or so I was told when I was deciding which route to take).
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      10-17-2012, 07:31 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by johanness View Post
So you cut & extended yours, rather than 'unfolding' them to achieve the proper length?
That could be your problem right there. They are extremely sensitive to this, as minuscule changes to impedance is enough to trigger a fault (or so I was told when I was deciding which route to take).
Agreed. I am kicking myself in the ass now for cutting them instead of cutting through the heat shield. At least I have an intact o2 wire sitting here. Jeff we have a very similar issue, thanks for confirming my hunch.
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      10-17-2012, 11:42 AM   #14
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Does anyone know if you can remove the secondary sensor from the car completely with the Evolve Catless O2 ready tune?
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      10-17-2012, 01:52 PM   #15
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Does anyone know if you can remove the secondary sensor from the car completely with the Evolve Catless O2 ready tune?
yes! but you get a SES light and a number of errors. That's the hwole point of going through the pain of relocating these useless O2 sensors
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      10-17-2012, 04:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
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yes! but you get a SES light and a number of errors. That's the hwole point of going through the pain of relocating these useless O2 sensors
I'm not sure but I think the point of the carless ready tune is to turn off the O2s, but still report them as "ready" so you don't fail smog. This way you don't get SES or errors.

You should email evolve directly for the definitive answer.
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      10-17-2012, 04:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
I'm not sure but I think the point of the carless ready tune is to turn off the O2s, but still report them as "ready" so you don't fail smog. This way you don't get SES or errors.

You should email evolve directly for the definitive answer.
I believe you still have to relocate and what they do with the tune is turn down the signal way down ~ 0V.

I believe the question was asked in the Evolve tune group buy
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      10-17-2012, 05:43 PM   #18
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Unfolded mine, 1000 miles later, no SES.
I have been waiting to be too confident about this, but after 1000 miles, I think I'm ok to boast....
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      10-17-2012, 06:20 PM   #19
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Unfolded mine, 1000 miles later, no SES.
I have been waiting to be too confident about this, but after 1000 miles, I think I'm ok to boast....
The shop that welded the bungs couldn't make one of the sensors reach and I think his laziness got in the way and asked me to cut into the O2 sensor and extend it. Also not to rain on your parade, did you do an OBD2 test to see if there are any faults stored? reason for saying is I have a code stored in the car but check engine light is off. Hope you dont have a code stored tho
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      10-17-2012, 06:31 PM   #20
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I can also confirm that unfolding works great (I actually cut into the conduit a few inches to get extra length so I wouldn't have to cut into the heat shield). No codes and no issues for about 6 months, see this post for pictures. I do have the evolve tune now (regular tune, not "readiness" tune), but didn't have codes with the stock tune.
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      10-17-2012, 06:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
I can also confirm that unfolding works great (I actually cut into the conduit a few inches to get extra length so I wouldn't have to cut into the heat shield). No codes and no issues for about 6 months, see this post for pictures. I do have the evolve tune now (regular tune, not "readiness" tune), but didn't have codes with the stock tune.
Interesting.....
Since you ran headers w/o a tune for a while.
Did you find the the tune made a significant difference ?
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      10-17-2012, 08:39 PM   #22
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Well... one thing for sure was that my bank1 sensor 2 was barely long enough to reach the front of the cats and the other o2 reached the bung I welded but I still needed few more inches to turn it around and screw it in.

Anyone knows if we can buy post/down stream O2s with 4-5 feet of wire? this way we won't have to cut them? Then again if a tune can fix the problem then I rather put the $$ towards the tune.

How much is a tune that can fix that problem now days?
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