Denied alignment?

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Like Intgr8r said, this is really good discussion. The facts you provide are solidly researched, and I've learned a lot from your posts and threads, including this thread. I'm sure a lot of others have as well; you're a great asset to the community here. (BTW I can attest my coding tool allows a reset of this sensor.)

What coding tool are you using?
is it a simple reset? I understood there was a calibration procedure.

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

What coding tool are you using?
is it a simple reset? I understood there was a calibration procedure.

My coding tool is a knock-off of the P.A. Soft unit that cost a couple hundred bucks from German Auto Recyclers on Ebay. The Bavarian Technic professional version can code this as well, but cost a lot more.

As to how to actually code it, and the procedure, I really don't have a clue. I've been curious, but haven't wanted to try messing with it, since it seems like something that's easy to screw up. (I really need to buy that TIS disk so I can look these things up.)

Next time I have the scanner hooked up (which requires a re-image of my laptop, or else I'd be out in the garage now) I'll look into it a bit more.

[Shipkiller]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Next time I have the scanner hooked up (which requires a re-image of my laptop, or else I'd be out in the garage now) I'll look into it a bit more.

Are you done yet?

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

Are you done yet?

Yes! Finally. Running XP alongside my Linux install can be a pain at times (not Linux, XP).

In the LEW Module in the P.A. Soft Tool you can see the steering wheel angle itself and there's a LEW adaption button. The first image shows the readout from the sensor with the steering wheel centered and wheels straight ahead. The second image is the "clear adaption" option--this is what I remembered from looking at the tool's options before, and what I think will reset the SAS. (Now that I see it again, I have to admit I'm a bit less certain as I'm not 100% sure what would happen if I "push the button".)

I'd assume you'd make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead, steering wheel is centered, and you'd click it. But there's very little documentation available on just what it does.

Maybe I'll be a guinea pig and follow what would seem to be the logical steps and press the button. If you hear a boom, that's my SAS or DSC going all wrong.

If I mess it up, I'll get my try and get a good explanation on the whole SAS thing from my indie shop.

[inTgr8r]

Excellent!!!

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Yes! Finally. Running XP alongside my Linux install can be a pain at times (not Linux, XP).

If you aren't already running VirtualBox (virtualbox.org), I would recommend it as by far the best way to run XP within a Linux host O/S, as opposed to running dual boot XP on a native disk partition. Since I converted all of our XP installs to Vbox under Linux, PC support life is much better, you just need enough RAM, but all peripheral pass-throughs (such as any USB device) work well.

Windows 7 also works well as a guest O/S on host Fedora 16 and Mac OSXs (based on info from people I know who are doing this).

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

I'd assume you'd make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead, steering wheel is centered, and you'd click it. But there's very little documentation available on just what it does.

Update: I followed the procedure above in blue and cleared the adaption. Car seems fine, went around some corners at a good clip, put down some power, and no DSC light at weird times. On a thread over on another forum (I can't find the thread now) a poster clicked this without following the procedure above and he ended up with all kinds of DSC errors (sounds like what Ship described earlier if the sensor isn't reset or it's done incorrectly).

I'll scan it again in a few days (or next weekend) and see if there are any errors and whether driving turns up any issues.

Originally Posted by aerobod

If you aren't already running VirtualBox (virtualbox.org), I would recommend it as by far the best way to run XP within a Linux host O/S, as opposed to running dual boot XP on a native disk partition. Since I converted all of our XP installs to Vbox under Linux, PC support life is much better, you just need enough RAM, but all peripheral pass-throughs (such as any USB device) work well.

Windows 7 also works well as a guest O/S on host Fedora 16 and Mac OSXs (based on info from people I know who are doing this).

Thanks! I'll give that a shot--although RAM might be an issue. My "car" PC is over 12 years old! (Yes, I should buy a new one, but that would take away from my mod budget!)

[inTgr8r]

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this.

The thing I find strange is that there isn't something more precise.
This might be best done on an alignment rack.

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this.

The thing I find strange is that there isn't something more precise.
This might be best done on an alignment rack.

Agreed about the alignment rack. After Googling a lot on Steering Angle and related terms I found very little out there aside from the "clean and re-solder" fix. The rest was speculation, or "you can't do it" "yes you can" back and forth. No definitive procedures, methods, or DIYs to be found (at least via my efforts). Wish there was more on this.

[RADRACR]

So how important is it to get the sensor reset after an alignment? Since it's news to most people, I'm guessing not very? Only if you're having major problems with DSC?

[RADRACR]

So I just contacted a very highly Yelp-reviewed alignment shop (recommended by Mfanatic) and asked about the SAS. He said he wouldn't be able to align my BMW because he can't reset the SAS. Is SAS really a big deal after every alignment? Can I get the alignment done and then go somewhere else to reset the SAS? Seems like most alignment shops can't deal with SAS, and the indie shops with the equipment don't do alignments

[Finnegan]

Short answer, we don't know for sure. However, since SAS looking for the wheel to be centered, and the wheels straight ahead, if the alignment were changed significantly (which is what you want to do) I'd expect it would need to be reset.

So, you probably could have the alignment done and have someone else reset the SAS. But the cost of the reset s/b included in the alignment cost if you ask me.

[RADRACR]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

The thing I find strange is that there isn't something more precise.
This might be best done on an alignment rack.

If the sensor is telling you the absolute angle is 0 (straight-ahead wheels?), why would you need it on a rack? Finn, is this how it works?

I just contacted a BMW specialty indie shop and he said I could bring the car to them to reset it after my alignment no problem.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by aestheticstorm

If the sensor is telling you the absolute angle is 0 (straight-ahead wheels?), why would you need it on a rack? Finn, is this how it works?

I just contacted a BMW specialty indie shop and he said I could bring the car to them to reset it after my alignment no problem.

If you're setting a new zero, you need the wheels straight ahead.
The only way to be certain that you are straight is on a rack or with string lines.

[aerobod]

I've not had any problems with the SAS after doing aliignments by making sure that I determine the steering wheel horizontal position first by taping a spirit level to the steering wheel (making sure it is even relative to the spokes), then making sure that the front toe is always even left and right with the steering wheel level. Then I roll the car backwards and forwards a couple of times and re-check for symmetry.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Update: I followed the procedure above in blue and cleared the adaption. Car seems fine, went around some corners at a good clip, put down some power, and no DSC light at weird times. On a thread over on another forum (I can't find the thread now) a poster clicked this without following the procedure above and he ended up with all kinds of DSC errors (sounds like what Ship described earlier if the sensor isn't reset or it's done incorrectly).

I'll scan it again in a few days (or next weekend) and see if there are any errors and whether driving turns up any issues.

I haven't heard anything further on this Ron, so I assume all is good with the car?

I have had 3-4 alignments done along with multiple suspension changes.
I have some niggling handling related issues & am becoming more & more convinced that the SAS needs to be done on my car.

I all is still good Ron I'm ordering the software package & doing this myself as well.

[Finnegan]

No changes to report, no issues with my reset procedure in driving or in subsequent scans.

I can't promise you that this will 100% resolve whatever issues you're having.

That said, Aerobod's procedure makes sense, I'd follow that, set your alignment, and then clear the adaption. It might be even a better idea to also also use the scanner to see if the SAS agrees with the spirit level settings for level/zero on the steering wheel before buttoning things down during the alignment itself, and before clearing the adaption.

Let us know how this pans out!

[inTgr8r]

That's what I had in mind.
When I set up my string lines I'll know where (current) zero is at the wheels irespective of the steering wheel itself.
Checking with the software will tell me how far my SAS is out.

....then do an alignment & reset SAS.

[usaz4mcr8cr]

I was denied an alignment from Sterling BMW in Newport Beach, CA!

Had my tie-rods repaced (siezed) and the Service Manager informed me that since my suspension was modified (H&R coilovers) the Tech was unable to get the car aligned to OEM Specs and therefore could not perform the alignment.

I was able to haggle them down to $150 for the alignment, maybe they decided that it as not enough $$$ and decided to send me somewhere else?

What is going on with this Dealership?

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by usaz4mcr8cr

I was denied an alignment from Sterling BMW in Newport Beach, CA!

Had my tie-rods repaced (siezed) and the Service Manager informed me that since my suspension was modified (H&R coilovers) the Tech was unable to get the car aligned to OEM Specs and therefore could not perform the alignment.

I was able to haggle them down to $150 for the alignment, maybe they decided that it as not enough $$$ and decided to send me somewhere else?

What is going on with this Dealership?

Dealerships don't like anything to be outside of OEM specs. I don't know why--can speculate it's policy, liability, insurance, pigheadedness, etc.

You'll need to get an indie shop to do it. Sorry, I know that's a pain when you're there anyway.

[Mueller944s2]

My Porsche can only be aligned at the dealer or Porsche specialty shop. It cost me $260. I don't know about the bmws, but to align the rear wheels on the Porsche requires about 2.5 hours and a special Porsche tool that's 3 pronged and fits in the area around the spring plate.

[Uncle Russ]

Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but my experience with BMW maintenance is that they are only allowed, by BMW, to do OEM-specified work. I found this out when I inquired about a future brake job (covered under my extended maintenance plan) using ceramic brake pads instead of OEM and they told me they could not install ceramic pads on my ///M because ceramics were not specified for that application. Talk about making a case for going to your local indie shop!

Oh, and our local independent (Race Shop & BMW/MB/Porche) charges $150 for their 4-wheel alignment.