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      09-12-2011, 03:40 PM   #23
imom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekmoe View Post
From the Redline website regarding 75w140:



I did not add any FM booster to mine. I just drained the stock crap out and poured in the Redline. Have never had a single grinding issue with either the stock fluid or Redline fluid.
Tekmoe, Maybe you didn't realize but red line has two product offerings, if you go with 75W140NS it doesn't have FM added in it already. If you went with regular, it has it ...and their website states for limited slip differential applications and says popular for M series cars. I guess I will have to call them and find out which one to get...but based on the website, the standard with FM is what you got and what I plan to get.

NS version is mean for special LSD racing application...still some ambiguity that needs to be resolved.

In summary, just because you didn't add FM, doesn't mean it's not already included.
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      09-12-2011, 06:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
Someone mentioned in #8.

I change mine every 15K along with other things.

I'm at 18,513 on my 2006 M Coupe.
Thanks. Completely missed post #8....
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      09-14-2011, 02:25 PM   #25
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I just got off the phone with my mechanic... how come he's giggling at me knowing I have low miles on my M about changing the diff gear oil? He's a retired BMW master mechanic. I too had the impression that gear oil you change at around 100K miles or so. But reading through all the forums folks recommend 20 to 30K miles. It's cheap to do so it's not the cost, but just like to understand why...and the reason for this whole thread I started.
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      09-14-2011, 11:49 PM   #26
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I guess my situation is easy because I drive my car 15k a year. It will happen at Inspection II at about 48500 or so.
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      09-20-2011, 07:01 PM   #27
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I searched some more and I see that BMW recommends based on the Z4 service checklist that the recommended differential oil change is at inspection 2. I wonder why so many insist on changing at 20 to 30K intervals? Cheap protection?
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      09-20-2011, 07:56 PM   #28
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+1 for Redline, crankcase, MT and diff.
Diff.... I do it at 15k, preventive approach .... I like to drive hard worry free
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      08-23-2012, 11:24 AM   #29
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So is the Diff drain/fill plugs 14mm?
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      09-07-2012, 02:24 PM   #30
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Confirmed. 14mm
I was just at Pep Boys and checked the fit, but I didn't buy the socket as it was about 2.25" total length and 1/2" drive.
I hear there's a "stubby", or maybe that was only the 8mm for the trans.
And I would prefer 3/8" drive if possible. I don't have a suitable 1/2" drive torque wrench.
Researching ... Done.

Just bought this stubby 8mm from Snap-On,thanks Ron Stygar.
And this 14mm from Amazon. Looks about as stubby as they get.

Now if someone can recommend a hand pump to get the Royal Purple out of the bottle and into the trans.
And what's with the fancy top on the O.E. diff oil? I'd rather not open one yet. Does an easy-squirt tube pop out or something? At $80 a liter it oughta jump out of the bottle and climb in the fill hole by itself.

Last edited by StickMon; 09-07-2012 at 11:49 PM..
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      09-08-2012, 09:24 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Confirmed. 14mm
I was just at Pep Boys and checked the fit, but I didn't buy the socket as it was about 2.25" total length and 1/2" drive.
I hear there's a "stubby", or maybe that was only the 8mm for the trans.
And I would prefer 3/8" drive if possible. I don't have a suitable 1/2" drive torque wrench.
Researching ... Done.

Just bought this stubby 8mm from Snap-On,thanks Ron Stygar.
And this 14mm from Amazon. Looks about as stubby as they get.

Now if someone can recommend a hand pump to get the Royal Purple out of the bottle and into the trans.
And what's with the fancy top on the O.E. diff oil? I'd rather not open one yet. Does an easy-squirt tube pop out or something? At $80 a liter it oughta jump out of the bottle and climb in the fill hole by itself.
I've found a better way to change the transmission fluid than using a hand pump. Go to Home Depot and buy about 3-4 feet of clear plastic hose--about1/2" diameter. With your car raised and level, run the hose from the engine compartment to the transmission drain hole. Put a funnel in the hose on the engine side and use gravity to fill the transmission. You can get it done in a couple of minutes. I usually have my wife pour the fluid while I'm underneath making sure everything is going in as planned. Quick, clean and no pumping. BTW, I use Synchromax too with great results.
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      09-10-2012, 10:12 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
And what's with the fancy top on the O.E. diff oil? I'd rather not open one yet. Does an easy-squirt tube pop out or something? At $80 a liter it oughta jump out of the bottle and climb in the fill hole by itself.
A long neck tube pulls out of the O.E. diff bottle. Keep the green cap screwed on and then pull up on it to pull the tube out. It works pretty well. But man, does that stuff smell!
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      09-10-2012, 10:59 PM   #33
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Thanks. I was hoping so.
Yea, gear oil does have a special wreak.
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      09-11-2012, 06:16 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhughett View Post
I've found a better way to change the transmission fluid than using a hand pump. Go to Home Depot and buy about 3-4 feet of clear plastic hose--about1/2" diameter. With your car raised and level, run the hose from the engine compartment to the transmission drain hole. Put a funnel in the hose on the engine side and use gravity to fill the transmission. You can get it done in a couple of minutes. I usually have my wife pour the fluid while I'm underneath making sure everything is going in as planned. Quick, clean and no pumping. BTW, I use Synchromax too with great results.
Great tip and excellent creative problem solving!
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      12-30-2015, 07:55 PM   #35
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I am a relatively new Owner of my Z4M and I am preparing full fluid changes for Spring as I don't know the fluid change history of my 39K mile vehicle.

WOW! I have had few different performance cars over the years, but I have never seen more confusion than on what Differential Fluid should be in the E46 M3 / Z4M diff. None more so than the dealerships!
Friction modifier or no Friction modifier???
LOTS of material to read out there. I've been on Medical time off for the last 2 weeks of the year and I have read enough BMW Differential Blogs to make my head EXPLODE!
I seemed to get the most info from all the E46 M3 blogs.

I called 2 local BMW dealerships today and they both said 83 22 1 470 080 (SAF-XJ), No FM! One sent me the document he was using as reference, dated 2014. See attached, page 2 of 4.

Turner and ECS Tuning both seemed certain that The Z4M Diff needed the FM.

Although there are many differing opinions and experiences documented throughout many different blogs, What I have taken away from my research is that I should use a FM version of a 75w/140 Synthetic Diff fluid, despite what the Dealerships are saying.

I know this has been Beat to Death FOR SURE! If anyone cares to weigh in . . . Again, feel free

Last edited by Bossdog; 12-30-2015 at 08:37 PM..
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      12-30-2015, 09:10 PM   #36
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OEM and OEM Booster.
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      01-04-2016, 05:09 PM   #37
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Recently had service done at Enthusiast Auto. Transmission fluid (Redline MTL), coolant, brake fluid and rear differential. Rear differential - "additive added for limited slip - 505-7478 Diff Fluid Additive".

I had considered doing at least some of the above myself but total parts and labor was about $450 and I decided to let them do all of it. I figured close to $100 in parts and a lot of my time.

With the transmission fluid change the shifts are considerably better. I also can't see for $450 for everything worrying too much about stretching the intervals out as far as possible.
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