Defective water pump or fuse?

[MVRS]

Hello everyone, I am having a bit of trouble with a recently purchased Pierburg water pump. The bleed process will not start at all.....I double checked the connections and did the procedure: ac temp - high, fan - low, pedal compressed for 10-12 seconds.

Still nothing comes on. I can't pull codes at the moment sadly :/
Anyone came across this problem before?

[nate96]

I had a similar issue a few weeks back when doing my water pump. I have a Foxwell 510 scanner that can initiate the bleed procedure. It seemed like it did not start the bleed procedure the first time and then I did it 2 more times, I also tried the manual method you are doing. It finally started having some coolant being put through the rad. When I started the car I had no heat. I took it for a quick drive and 2 minutes later I had some heat. Got home waited for the car to cool down and did the bleed procedure again and added a fair amount of coolant again and the bleed procedure was working correctly. Seems like I had an air lock that the bleed procedure was not able to get out.

[MVRS]

Originally Posted by nate96

I had a similar issue a few weeks back when doing my water pump. I have a Foxwell 510 scanner that can initiate the bleed procedure. It seemed like it did not start the bleed procedure the first time and then I did it 2 more times, I also tried the manual method you are doing. It finally started having some coolant being put through the rad. When I started the car I had no heat. I took it for a quick drive and 2 minutes later I had some heat. Got home waited for the car to cool down and did the bleed procedure again and added a fair amount of coolant again and the bleed procedure was working correctly. Seems like I had an air lock that the bleed procedure was not able to get out.

So pretty much the air in the system prevented your water pump from activating right?
I am getting the same symptoms with the cool air coming out the vents when I attempting the manual bleed procedure..No fluid or sound moving from the pump at all still. Even when driving for a short period to get the system flowing, I didn't get any heat from the vents.. which I am guessing because of the airlock. I'll definitely look into purchasing that scanner you mentioned.

[Don L]

I’ll second that airlock could be the problem. I did my Z4 last spring and couldn’t get the pump to start. I had to take the car off the ramps and run the motor with the car slightly down hill. That finally got the pump running.

Don

[Steeler]

I read somewhere or watched a YT video that there is a process where you turn on ignition, do not start engine and hold accelerator to the floor for 15 seconds.
This apparently activates the water pump

Here it is

[MVRS]

Originally Posted by Don L

I’ll second that airlock could be the problem. I did my Z4 last spring and couldn’t get the pump to start. I had to take the car off the ramps and run the motor with the car slightly down hill. That finally got the pump running.

Don

Interesting, I’ll try out your method tomorrow . Appreciate that.

[MVRS]

Originally Posted by Steeler

I read somewhere or watched a YT video that there is a process where you turn on ignition, do not start engine and hold accelerator to the floor for 15 seconds.
This apparently activates the water pump

That’s the process I’ve done before with the old unit, but it’s just not activating with the new pump. Which is making me confused.

[Clearancediver]

I have manual vice elec water pump… but that said it sounds like electrical issue….

So I would look at electrical connection to new pump and use electrical cleaner on both pump connection and wiring connection. Check for broken wires also.

Also read your error codes with INPA or ISTAD… and dive down the rabbit hole on any error/fault codes that show up. ISTAD has the TIS incorporated into it…

Google Z4 electrical water pump and also Google ISTAD. Read the articles and watch YouTube videos on how to use ISTAD

[MVRS]

Originally Posted by Clearancediver

I have manual vice elec water pump… but that said it sounds like electrical issue….

So I would look at electrical connection to new pump and use electrical cleaner on both pump connection and wiring connection. Check for broken wires also.

Also read your error codes with INPA or ISTAD… and dive down the rabbit hole on any error/fault codes that show up. ISTAD has the TIS incorporated into it…

Google Z4 electrical water pump and also Google ISTAD. Read the articles and watch YouTube videos on how to use ISTAD

Yea i was fearing that, and without a code reader it's even more of a struggle. I will make sure to give a thorough look into the wiring and clean it up a bit.
Don't have INPA or ISTAD but I will invest in a Windows laptop also (I have MacBook Pro sadly). Really appreciate the help

[Clearancediver]

Mac user myself…. But have ISTAD loaded on old Windows computer. I have INPA and other programs on an old windows notebook (original software I used when first got the car)… still like it for certain things as it’s simpler and easier to use… I paid for ISTAD when it first came out so I don’t have the newer version which has the “fix” for the sticky steering issue… although I know what it is and the “how” of it. Interestingly my issue arises in the winter when I have the heater on… in the summer no issue since I run the ac… even with the top down. Winter… heat biased towards face… summer ac biased to feet. Too frigging old with arthritis to twist myself like a pretzel … although I saw the fix for that using two kitchen chairs on the outside of car… 😀

[MVRS]

Originally Posted by Clearancediver

Mac user myself…. But have ISTAD loaded on old Windows computer. I have INPA and other programs on an old windows notebook (original software I used when first got the car)… still like it for certain things as it’s simpler and easier to use… I paid for ISTAD when it first came out so I don’t have the newer version which has the “fix” for the sticky steering issue… although I know what it is and the “how” of it. Interestingly my issue arises in the winter when I have the heater on… in the summer no issue since I run the ac… even with the top down. Winter… heat biased towards face… summer ac biased to feet. Too frigging old with arthritis to twist myself like a pretzel … although I saw the fix for that using two kitchen chairs on the outside of car… 😀

What version of Windows does your copy of ISTA + INPA run on? Windows 7? I bought the cable for it a long time ago but never got to buying a laptop now I regret it haha.

[MVRS]

Well today I checked the fuse box in glove compartment and found out that fuse 32 isn't on when in ignition. I did some research and it's linked to the DME for 06 and up. Replaced the fuse and still getting no power to it
Back to the drawing board...

[Clearancediver]

I think the notebook is running Windows 7 with access to internet cut off, as there is no need for it. The old windows computer with ISTAD is running Windows 10 and has been upgraded security wise for the internet, as I was downloading upgraded version of bluebus software for my Blubus that I installed. I have the DSP high end Carver radio system, and Ted the developer upgraded the software for the issues I had with its integration. I think its been further upgraded and I’m not sure I’ll download as I’m not sure of whether it is compatible with version 1 hardware, as the hardware has been upgraded since and the newest software is based upon that. Don’t think upgrading when it’s working just fine is warranted… but I have to delve in to the dev notes and check to see which version of the software I can run……

The old computer doesn’t have to be expensive or up todeate to run ISTAD or INPA …. Just inexpensive…as it sits my my workbench full time.