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01-29-2011, 11:10 AM | #1 |
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stud/lug nut conversion......
well after torquing a lug bolt to bmws 120nm it noticeably stretched the bolt, i panicked, so now my car is sat in the garage feeling rather sorry for itself, anyhow i decided to order these bits from turner....
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/htm..._ID=TWH9950B62 and these awesome lightweight race lock lug nuts https://www.turnermotorsport.com/htm...ODUCT_ID=32876 well its cost me like $340 but its worth it....... i track my car about 10x per year!! anyone fitted any of the items above?? any tips? |
01-29-2011, 11:37 AM | #2 |
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Yup, I did this for my car since I track a lot as well. Be sure to put some strong locktite on the studs (only the short end that goes into the hub! lol) and torque them down real good. Then torque on the wheels with your lug nuts. This will allow the studs and the locktite to bond better. No trackwork for at least a week after install. And keep checking torque on the lug nuts.
If you happen to take off any lugs, check each corresponding stud to make sure it's still very tight against the hub. I personally went with Gorilla brand studs, and Spoon (JDM brand as well) lug nuts to match my wheels a bit. Would've used my spare set of Volk extended duralug nuts, but I might be including them in the sale of my non-M fitment LE37's. Plus, the Volk lugs don't match my wheels as well as the Spoon lugs. Last edited by mfanatic325; 01-29-2011 at 12:30 PM.. |
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01-29-2011, 11:50 AM | #3 |
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Have the exact setup except I have the longer R40 Kics.
I absolutely love this setup, the floating collars on the kics torque up much nicer than normal.
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01-29-2011, 03:44 PM | #4 | |
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01-29-2011, 03:46 PM | #5 | |
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how much are you torqing the nuts and locking units by? |
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01-29-2011, 04:14 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Sorry, no pics that show much.
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01-29-2011, 04:30 PM | #8 |
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I'm surprised that the studs only require 16 ft.-lbs. of torque. Are you sure that's all it needs? Because 16 ft.-lbs. is only hand-tight =O
I torque the lug nuts to OE 87 ft.-lbs. spec. I sometimes just round up to 90. I check every 50 miles or so, or just whenever I check tire pressures, etc. |
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01-29-2011, 04:45 PM | #9 |
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m fanatic..... see here turners installation guide.
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag...structions.pdf definatly 16ft lb, i emailed and turner said specifically dont torque more than this!! also one last question guys....... how much lockthread did you use on the studs...... a drop or coat librally the bottom end?? Last edited by Beedub; 01-29-2011 at 05:19 PM.. |
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01-29-2011, 05:30 PM | #10 | |
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It's just a threaded rod in a hole. It's not clamping anything. Use enough locktite to coat all of the lower threads, but don't have it running off.
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01-29-2011, 05:34 PM | #11 |
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awesome, thanks for this.......m fanatic maybe you should losen you studs, turner told me i will compromise their strength if you tighten over the 16ft lbs.
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01-29-2011, 06:35 PM | #12 |
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m-fanatic fyi.... found in the m3 section and aimed someone that torqued tms wheels studs as you did.
wait, you guys TORQUED wheel studs?! Do not do that, there is no surface with which hold the torque, you're just putting them in with the shank against the threads. BMW wheel studs should only be installed with Loctite, and should be very mildly torqued, they should depend on the loctite (well, and the contact area between threads) to hold them in. |
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01-29-2011, 08:57 PM | #13 |
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I have turner's as well...put a little bit of locktite on them and put each one in with minimal pressure. I have muteki SR48 lugs on and have had no problems whatsoever. You'll love them, especially if you take your wheels off enough cuz lug bolts simply suck
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01-29-2011, 09:18 PM | #14 |
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One of my favorite mods as well, makes swapping wheels really quick and easy.
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01-30-2011, 08:04 AM | #17 |
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01-30-2011, 09:12 AM | #18 |
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You guys are talking about two different thing. Torquing the studs into the hub is low torque, torquing the lug nuts onto the studs is the standard 88ft lb.
You really only need a drop or two of locktight.
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01-30-2011, 11:44 AM | #19 |
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ocha correct... im actually taking about the stud into the hub, but the REAL info i wanted was RE the loctite, so a drop will do the job, perfect. thankyou.
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01-30-2011, 04:38 PM | #20 |
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hah well this car's my second experience with stud conversion, and from my first experience, I had some loose studs which made ticking sounds when driving. I even used locktite on those as well, albeit the "blue" lower-level ones because I didn't want the studs to be permanent.
So I've since been very particular about making sure the studs are tight before putting on any wheels or nuts. For the M, since I'm tracking it exclusively and don't mind even if the studs are permanent, I used the "red" higher-level locktite and tightened the studs a little bit more than "by-hand". |
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01-30-2011, 04:54 PM | #21 | |
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You can use more, the negative is that if you ever need to remove it will be very difficult and you will be required to heat them to loosen, and then chase the threads.
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