Dissimilar Metals

[Steeler]

In particular alloy rims and steel rotor hats.
How do you guys prevent the alloy rims from corroding themselves onto the steel hubs?

When I first got my car and changed out the wheels I had to literally beat the wheels off the hubs with a sledge hammer from behind.

I resorted to applying a little bit of never sieze paste to the new wheels but it makes a mess.

I am due for brakes and so was thinking about making a "gasket" from thin rubber or even thin gasket paper to go between the rim and the hub.

Comments?

[StickMon]

I cleaned mine as well as I could with Brakleen and Scotch-Brite.
Then I dipped my finger in some 10W-60 and rubbed it onto the hubs.
Seems to be working, but I'm in a very benign weather environment.
I doubt there's enough gap on mine for a solid gasket.
I'm pretty sure that's what centers the wheel, but the non-///M may be different.

[The HACK]

Anti-seize paste is one of those "a little goes a very long way" compounds. The less you use, the more effective it is.

If you're applying it and it's making a mess, then you've applied too much.

Of course, I change my wheels/tires once a month due to my extra-curricular activities and my location, so there's little to no chance of them seizing to the hub.

[joelselman]

+1 on the hack. a little should be all you need and probably only at the center ring.

I would strongly recommend against any kind of oiling or gasket. A major component of your wheel staying on your car is friction (clamping force) between wheel and hub.

[Taylorguy74]

Originally Posted by The HACK

Anti-seize paste is one of those "a little goes a very long way" compounds. The less you use, the more effective it is.

If you're applying it and it's making a mess, then you've applied too much.

Of course, I change my wheels/tires once a month due to my extra-curricular activities and my location, so there's little to no chance of them seizing to the hub.

Same here on the anti-sieze. Barely a dob on my finger and spread it as far as it goes. Zero stick. The wheel does grab on the hub a bit, but that to me is expected - never required me to beat it or have to jerk and pull like the OP stated.

[an3ony]

I've had good luck with graphite lube

[bosstones]

Anti-seize for me, too. Works like a charm. A little does go a long way....not sure I'll ever finish the little tub/bottle I got.

[seank]

I use brake pad grease on any parts down there. Between wheel spacers too.

[Twixboy]

Originally Posted by dbarton62

In particular alloy rims and steel rotor hats.
How do you guys prevent the alloy rims from corroding themselves onto the steel hubs?

When I first got my car and changed out the wheels I had to literally beat the wheels off the hubs with a sledge hammer from behind.

I resorted to applying a little bit of never sieze paste to the new wheels but it makes a mess.

I am due for brakes and so was thinking about making a "gasket" from thin rubber or even thin gasket paper to go between the rim and the hub.

Comments?

I have to do the same thing on my Q5 when I swap the winter wheels twice a year. Except I kick the rubber as hard as I can instead of using a sledge hammer. Never occurred to me that this was not normal. I'll try the anti-seize suggestions. Is this the same anti-seize you apply to spark plugs that they sell at the counter at autozone?

[Steeler]

Not sure where to buy anti sieze.
I have an old can left over from my tool and die maker dad.

[elerner61]

Originally Posted by bosstones

Anti-seize for me, too. Works like a charm. A little does go a long way....not sure I'll ever finish the little tub/bottle I got.

I still have the same bottle of Permatex "silver and get's all over everything) anti-sieze for the past 30 years. Stuff is great....in moderation.

[GuidoK]

Never ever use a gasket from paper, rubber or whatever!

With a compressable material between the rim and hub you cant torque the bolts (the bolts won't hold the torque) and you could loose a wheel, or in your case, 4 wheels....

I use some copper grease, a very thin film applied with a brush...
Especially around the centre round fitting flange.

[jdoublehcubed]

buy the copper compound anti-seize at Napa, its like $6 for a bottle that will last you 10 years.

[Huz-Z]

Its common now to find these electronic modules installed on cars that create a very slight charge throughout the vehicle that makes the entire car cathodic relative to the sacrificial anode contained within the unit.

I wonder if that would suffice to prevent this from happening - and eliminate any further rust from developing or progressing elsewhere on the car? Sadly, those devices are way more pricey than the solutions above, so likely not practical.

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

Its common now to find these electronic modules installed on cars that create a very slight charge throughout the vehicle that makes the entire car cathodic relative to the sacrificial anode contained within the unit.

That only works when the sacrificial anode is contained in the same electrolyte.

So if your car is all wet everywhere it will work but rust usually occurs on those spots that stay wet, and those are pretty well hidden. You'd have to dip the sacrificial anode in the same wet spot, and that is usually a very thin layer of water on the metal, thus short circuiting the device....

So no, that won't work.

Could work on a boat though.

Galvanizing the steel (usually zincplating), so that there is sacrificial material everywhere does work

[Huz-Z]

Hmm. I thought that the theory is that every metal part of the car that is not insulated from the point where the device connects, has a small current and the car becomes one big cathode so that all the corrosion takes place at the sacrificial anode. But I think there are mixed reviews on how effective these systems are.

[Shipkiller]

Its called 'Cathodic Protection' and its been in use on ships and boats for 40 years, but as GuidoK it will not work on an automobile.

There are two types of Cathodic Protection, active and passive. Passive normally just uses a zinc anode to dissolve away thus protecting the base material. Active uses electric current.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

Its called 'Cathodic Protection' and its been in use on ships and boats for 40 years, but as GuidoK it will not work on an automobile.

There are two types of Cathodic Protection, active and passive. Passive normally just uses a zinc anode to dissolve away thus protecting the base material. Active uses electric current.

Cathodic cleaning is also used prior to welding pipe seams particularly on Aluminum.

Thanks for all the input.

I will stick with the "little dab'll do ya" process.

[Huz-Z]

The more I research electronic rust protection the more I tend to think it's modern day snake oil.

[Shipkiller]

On modern US Naval warships, they use a combination of passive and active cathodic systems. US Naval Submarines use a passive system although the new Virginia class might use an active system, but I doubt it, from a detectability standpoint.. I just never noticed when on board. I may have to look next time I am onboard a 774 class boat.

[bosstones]

Originally Posted by elerner61

I still have the same bottle of Permatex "silver and get's all over everything) anti-sieze for the past 30 years. Stuff is great....in moderation.

Ha! That's the same thing I have. Guess it'll be with me a while, too.