Z4M Brake Ducts

[Shipkiller]

Had anyone installed front brake ducts on their M?

If so, which one's worked and what modifications to the ducts were required?

[45ACP]

I learned this from Wildag, but all you have to do is snap off the flaps on the OEM brake ducts to allow increased airflow.

[Shipkiller]

Sorry, I guess I was not more specific.... My fault.

I am talking about the ducts that attach to the wheel assemblies, like what you can get on the E46....

I have already pushed the bumper duct flaps off, but I am musing about how to get more air flow directly into the rotor.....

[onelove]

I'm also interested in any brake ducting solutions others have fun on the Z4M.

[esqu1re]

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=410641

scroll down to Post No. 8.

[lucid]

Make sure to use the orange high temp ducting, which is rated at 550F. I think the black stuff might be rated at ~300F.

I bought some last year, and the pegasus had the best prices.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...roupID=AIRHOSE

[a_riddler]

Titanium backing plates have been recommended to help with the fluid fade.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/titaniu...ates-p713.aspx

[jmillet]

Having done over thirty driving school track events at Pacific Raceway, Spokane County Motorsports Park, and Portland International Raceway over the past three years I have to say that the stock Z4M brakes are more than adequate. The two-piece cross-drilled rotors provide sufficient cooling and removing the brake duct blocking panel might help a little. Simply install some high temperature competition brake pads (I prefer the Performance Friction PF-01), flush out the brake fluid and install some high temperature stuff like Ate Typ200 or Super Blue and you're ready to rock and roll.

[Shipkiller]

I have never had any issues with fade either so far, but have been doing some long term investigation in this area. Not sure if I want to do this since I may go to a different rotor when the stock ones wear out sometime this coming year.

I am up in the air about this and I am in no hurry. Just asking questions and doing research.

[esqu1re]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

I have never had any issues with fade either so far, but have been doing some long term investigation in this area. Not sure if I want to do this since I may go to a different rotor when the stock ones wear out sometime this coming year.

I am up in the air about this and I am in no hurry. Just asking questions and doing research.

When you find a suitable rotor replacement, please post. I've been looking for one for a while now. Unfortunately neither RacingBrake nor Performance Friction makes a stock sized rotor/hat. RB has a rotor our size, but no available hats.


I've heard good things about our stock system. Most drivers won't overheat it in 10-15 minutes. It's only when you're really fast (or stabbing the brakes too much) or are racing that you begin to notice some overheating problems.

[onebluemcm]

I will search through all the photos I took of the Z4M Grand Am Koni car to see if I happened to get pics of the brake duct work. I am pretty certain they had to fab a backing plate to fit on the steering knuckle or caliper to hold the duct and aim the fresh air at the center of the rotor. I want to say it came into the wheel well from the inside front bottom edge of the wheel well, not anywhere near the thing that can be knocked out in the front of the stock fender liner. Part of the duct was strapped to the strut. the problem is getting the duct in there and not having the wheel hit it at full lock.

hopefully I captured pics of it.....

[Shipkiller]

Originally Posted by onebluemcm

Part of the duct was strapped to the strut. the problem is getting the duct in there and not having the wheel hit it at full lock.

hopefully I captured pics of it.....

Actually, I thought that was the biggest issue also. Just finding room...

[onebluemcm]

got home late, didn't get a chance to go through my photos. With the race car, form follows function as you know, so they didn't have as much of a hrad time routing things. With a street car, alot of it may depend on just how much you want to hack into things.... Also, on a street car, it might be nice to be able to cap the ducts off to prevent excess rain water or other debris from getting directly routed toward the brakes. Again, on the race car, the benefit of cooling outweighs the cost of debris and water getting directed onto the brakes - and brakes are much more of an expendable item - new each or every other race. If I can get the heck out of here at a reasonable hour tonight, I'll check my photos this evening.

[Diokaef]

If you guys want and I have enough interest on this I can have them made for our cars.

[Diokaef]

Have you guy seeing the reverse braking cooling system used in Japanese's cars?

[Shipkiller]

Originally Posted by Diokaef

If you guys want and I have enough interest on this I can have them made for our cars.

For me, it's just a long term investigation and I am not ready for this upgrade.

Originally Posted by Diokaef

Have you guy seeing the reverse braking cooling system used in Japanese's cars?

No, What does it consist of?

[Diokaef]

Kind allow the air to be removed from the wheel well and that way is a constant flow, I will try to find some info on that in english to post it here.

[Shipkiller]

I had read somewhere that the bumper air inlets, what we call the brake ducts, where really designed by BMW as a aerodynamic function to help with the high pressure air buildup inside of the wheel wells.

[onebluemcm]

Doesn't appear that I have any pics of the brake ducting....

Seeing as this isn't a real near term thing for you, next time I see my friend that had the Z4M Koni car I'll find out how they ran the ducts.

[Shipkiller]

Cool...

[Diokaef]

This..

[Shipkiller]

Now THAT would work.... very elegant and simple...

Hell, I would do that...