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04-28-2016, 04:58 PM | #23 |
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well....I'm glad that I do all the work on my car myself if I see these prices passing by.
I can say only one thing..... With the oil pan coming off this is the ideal timing to change your rodbearings. I dont know if they have already been replaced but if not, with 76k miles it's way overdue (every ~50k miles)
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04-28-2016, 08:22 PM | #24 |
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Don't know the oil plumbing on these things, but if it isn't found in the oil pan, then what?
Again, not knowing the intimate details of these things, but having messed with a lot of engines in my life, I would spend a little time trying to drag the bottom of the oil pan with it on via the drain hole before I took it off. Sounds silly maybe, but a fine piece of stiff wire, etc, you know the clothes hanger method??? Who knows 5 minutes and you might get lucky??? Or perhaps it is heavily baffled and it might be a waste of time.... |
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05-02-2016, 10:19 AM | #25 |
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UPDATE again..... good and bad news the BAD NEWS first. All the main bearing were showing wear, but No.3 bearing spun after they replaced the Vanos at the shop and cranked the car to test everything.
GOOD NEWS is that the crank was fine! MIRACLES still happen! A Bimmerworld rod bearing set with their coating was ordered with ARP bolts. After all this I should be good for another 50-60k miles. My opinion in the S54 engine is pretty low right now. An engine that needs rod bearing replaced every 50-60k miles and a bill of about $2,000 is total BS. There is no reason for that.The vanos repair every 80-100k is kinda stupid also. Its crazy to design an engine so tight that it basically destroys itself is idiotic. I owned an E30 M3 with the dreaded S14 engine in the car for 6 years. So many people always complained that engine was so fragile and took so much maintenance. Comparing an S14 engine to a S54, is about the same as comparing a Sherman tank to a VW Beetle and the S14 isn't the Beetle!
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05-02-2016, 10:40 AM | #26 |
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hey guys, can you list the Besian kit part numbers that you used to service the Vanos. also which bolts are required and which pump disc/anti rattle kit you used?
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05-02-2016, 10:44 AM | #27 | |
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At that time if you wanted that at any other brand, you'd end up at ferrari's, and those engines probably need a full rebuild at 50k for......well....50k? but that spun rodbearing at cranking is imho very worrying. Makes you wonder how and why that was happening and if it's related to other possible yet unknown problems (thinking of that guy that wrecked his complete engine in the first few miles after a complete rebuild) Makes my statement at 'way overdue' sound like an understatement if it happens already at cranking Have your mechanics take a good look at that engine.
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05-02-2016, 11:45 AM | #28 |
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GuidoK, we have had no less than 3 race engine builders look at EVERYTHING in that engine. All have came back with the same conclusion. That basically after the rod bearing replacement, the engine itself will actually be better than factory because of the better Vanos system in the car.
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05-02-2016, 12:19 PM | #29 | |
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S54 Vanos Seals Repair Kit Item #: BS021 S54 Vanos Oil Pump Disk Item #: BS025 S54 Vanos Rattle Repair Kit (Didn’t use, YMMV) Item #: BS022 S54/S62 Vanos Rattle Tools (Didn’t use, YMMV) Item #: BS095 S54 Vanos Sealing Plate Repair Kit Item no. BS024 M62TU Vanos Pick Tools Item #: BS096 Other Parts: 12 x cam sprocket screws PN: 07129905536 crush washers (don’t remember PN’s, sorry) 2 x for banjo built on valve cover 2 x for banjo bolt on vanos unit if you’re replacing the timing chain guide, the 32mm tensioner has a crush washer as well 1 x Valve cover gasket (OE gasket can be reused if it’s in good shape) 1 x Vanos gasket 11367831938 Tools: S54 Timing Bridge (can rent kit from bimmertoolrental.com for $25) S54 Flywheel locking pin (Z4m uses a short version, e46 pin will not fit. Bimmertoolrental.com says they can provide the correct pin with the timing bridge kit, but they sent me the e46 one anyway…) 7mm, 10mm, 22mm, and 24mm open ended wrenches. Thinner is better, especially for the 24mm. (could get away with a deep socket for the 22mm) 32mm socket to turn crank (YMMV, some s54’s have a different crank bolt configuration…) Basic hand tools (ratchets, etc.) The vanos seals kit (item BS021) contains all the seals that are used within the vanos unit. The seals for the solenoid sealing plate are NOT included (ask me how I know…) and must be ordered separately (item BS024) if you need to replace them. I ordered the anti-rattle kit and tools, but ended up not needing them. My splined shafts didn’t have any axial play, so I just flushed them out and refilled with fresh oil, good as new if you weren’t halfway across the world I’d give you a deal on my unused kit |
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05-02-2016, 04:37 PM | #30 |
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Did you have to replace main bearings and rod bearings? Do you do oil analyses when you change the oil?
Man, that sucks about your car engine. I hope it is bulletproof when you get it back!
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05-02-2016, 10:13 PM | #31 |
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Thx Yousefnjr, just sent you a PM in regards to the anti rattle kit
good stuff posting up all the required part numbers how does that work with Besian core exchange? for example the pump disc.. 150+300 core exchange, so you install the disc, send them your old one and get 300 bucks back? how was your disc after removing? what it in need of renewal? cheers and thx again for the info
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05-03-2016, 08:22 AM | #32 |
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I talked to the shop again late yesterday, the crank was perfect so thats GREAT news. I asked them about the oil analysis I have done with Blackstone. Seems to be that on the S54 rod bearings once you see the problem in the oil analysis the bearing is already gone. The coating on the bearing just don't show up on their test. I keep saying "The Shop" but unless someone really wants to know where I took the car there isn't a point in it unless you live around Dallas. They have a really great bunch of guys and a very solid race team. anywho, they said the engine should now be perfect.
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05-03-2016, 09:52 AM | #33 |
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Sorry to hear about all the issues. Hope it's all ready for Trifecta.
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05-03-2016, 02:19 PM | #34 |
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It will be 03BeastCharmer.....as matter of fact... just got a call from the shop and they cranked it last night and everything was fine, then they drove it around for a good 30 minutes and everything was great then also...they are going to heat cycle it a few more times and I will pick it up Friday
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05-05-2016, 02:44 AM | #35 |
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Thx yousefnjr, I just purchased all the required stuff, including the pump disc.. Hopefully my tabs are ok
V. BTW, This site has all the DIY stuff you'll need. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=545367
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05-06-2016, 08:39 AM | #36 |
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I have the car back! I can honestly say the engine feels stronger now than at anytime I have had the car, simply amazing. To say I am beyond happy would be an understatement.
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05-06-2016, 10:06 AM | #37 |
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Glad to hear it's back up and running
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05-06-2016, 06:35 PM | #38 |
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Great news to hear!
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05-06-2016, 09:27 PM | #39 | |
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Great to hear.
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05-07-2016, 07:55 AM | #40 |
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Great news! Some of do live around the Dallas area....
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05-09-2016, 10:11 AM | #41 |
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I put about 5-600 miles on the car from thursday to saturday, from the shop to my house, to umpire a high playoff baseball game, to instruct at a track day event and then back home. She never put one foot wrong the whole time. I did EXACTLY what BIMMERWORLD said to do with the rod bearings and I am changing to Motul Racing oil this week with another oil change. I'm a happy guy again. Now if I can just figure out a way for carry my grand daughter in the car would be perfect. Baby seats don't work well at all in the M Coupe seats! I sure don't want to be forced to make a change.
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