Difficulty level of BBK DIY?

[RADRACR]

Reference of my level: Installed SS lines, pads, and changed brake fluid for the first time earlier this year and found it easy.

How does this compare?

Any special tools required?

Is there a DIY guide or do they typically come with instructions?

Thanks

[GuidoK]

Torque wrench is needed but you probably have that for your wheels.
But installing a front bbk is easy; maybe 2 hours work tops. If you can install lines/bleed brakes you can do this too; straight bolt on stuff.
I also think you need a 16mm socket; it doesn't come with the cheap/incomplete sets.
If it doesn't come with instructions, TIS will tell you the way to get the brakes of your car.
Be sure to tighten the caliper bolts to the right torque specs (safety).

Rear is more difficult because you need to readjust the handbrake (depending on what type of rear bbk you install)

[Finnegan]

Tools - Breaker bar (caliper carrier is on tight), torque wrench (a must, you want precision on torque for caliper carrier bolts for brakes).

Can't speak to BBK DIYs or instructions, but here's a rotor replacement DIY that includes removing the caliper carriers. Would expect they come with it.

If you can do pads, lines, fluid, this isn't that much harder. It involves swapping out the rotors, and removing the caliper carrier and calipers. Both are easy to do--I've done both to replace rotors on a friend's M3.

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

Rear is more difficult because you need to readjust the handbrake (depending on what type of rear bbk you install)

Good point.

[RADRACR]

How do you remove/torque the rotor retaining bolts when the rotor can rotate freely?

How do you readjust the handbrake?

[GuidoK]

Be sure that your rims can move along the calipers because they are bigger and wider.
Most BBK sets have a template that you can use, but also check this when you bolt on the rims (you can damage both your rims and the calipers...)

If your rims won't clear the calipers you can use spacers.

Originally Posted by aestheticstorm

How do you remove/torque the rotor retaining bolts when the rotor can rotate freely?

If you've removed the rim (you loosen the bolts a little bit when the car is on the ground and when you jack the car up you remove the bolts/rim), there is only one hex bolt that holds the rotor to the rotor carrier. You can loosen that bolt easily by holding the rotor. Or somebody can step on the brakes. You can also screw in some wheel bolts and wedge a pry bar between them to get some firm hold. But the hex screw is tiny and not very tightened. When you install new rotors, use copper/ceramic grease on the hub/center ring to prevent corrosion. Also use copper/ceramic grease on the pads but you already know how to do that.

How do you readjust the handbrake?

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/e85/Z4...Parking_brake/
This is a non m, but that's probably the same.
But it all depends on the type of rear bbk (maybe there are rear bbk's with hydraulic handbrakes etc).

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by aestheticstorm

How do you remove/torque the rotor retaining bolts when the rotor can rotate freely?

How do you readjust the handbrake?

The bolts holding the rotor on are very low torque, around 12 ft lbs. I don't recall having any issues though on an 04 M3 with 80K miles. Just hold with one hand IIRC.

Handbrake--not sure on that one.

[RADRACR]

Got it. Thanks guys! Looking forward to this next Spring.

[seank]

The rears were a pain in the butt, because we had to cut the rotor dust shield or remove the wheel bearing to get it off. We cut it off and it took a while.

Good luck

[inTgr8r]

Hand brake was not an issue with my Stoptechs, the inner drum was the same dia. as OE.
WRT torque wrench, the one for your wheels is too large ranged for the lower torque values.

One of the biggest issues is trimming/cutting of the dust shields.
The rears are completely cut back, the fronts are just trimmed.
Bolt up is otherwise pretty straight forward.

[RADRACR]

How did you cut it? Dremel?

[The HACK]

Depends HEAVILY on the kit you purchase and install.

For example, certain StopTECH kits require that you ground down about 1/4" of the steering knuckle to fit their bracket. I did a 6 pot on an E46 330Ci and the process took much longer than necessary due to the need for the knuckle modification. 1/4" of cast iron to grind away with an angle grinder took at least 1/2 hour more than necessary. Don't know if that's still the case.

I also did a BBK on an E46 323Ci from UUC and that one was much easier.

I did a RacingBrake BBK on another make of car (Nissan 350Z) and that went pretty much straight forward except for the fact that we had to add one more washer to get the caliper to sit flush with the rotor. But again, that sort of thing is fairly common, the hard part was trying to find the right washers for the installation.

You will likely need to modify the dust shield so a cutting tool is recommended. A Dremel with cutting disc, or an angle grinder works much quicker than trying to modify with a cutter.

Also keep in mind, while you're swapping calipers, you should find something to plug up the brake line to prevent unnecessary air from entering into the HARD line. A golf tee works well.

LASTLY. Once the caliper is installed and the system flushed, take the caliper off and turn it upside down then bleed again, then re-install, bleed while tapping it with a large rubber mallet. Fixed calipers has more complicated hydraulic fluid passages that may potentially trap air. It's better to do the upside-down bleed and the mallet before you button everything back up, go drive and find that your pedal now feels like mush.

Other than that, it's typically pretty straight forward. If you have all the right tools, it's not all that complicated.

[RADRACR]

Awesome info as always. I'm planning on AP Racing FWIW. I see that Beedub installed these so I'll pick his brain for any installation gotchas.

[mfanatic325]

Errol, be sure your dremel should have a nice metal-cutting attachment head/blade, because there will be a lot of dust shield cutting in order to clear not only the caliper but the rotors as well. Bending the heat shield will not suffice. It HAS to be cut/trimmed away as needed for clearances.

AP Racing ftmfw

[seank]

Don't forget brake fluid will eat/stain your pretty new brakes. Something you never think about with stock calipers.

[RADRACR]

Does lack of dust shield improve cooling or is that just wishful thinking? Looks like the lip would restrict air flow.

[EMP07]

Dust Shield is the biggest pain. Dremeled the rears, and pulled the front bearings to completely remove the fronts.

Do it again, I would do 4 pot AP's on the front and rear. Not sure I would go full floating discs if you still street because of noise.

[The HACK]

Floating disc is the BIGGEST reason to get BBKs, IMO. If a kit does not come with 2 piece floaties it's not worth considering in my book.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by EMP07

.............. Not sure I would go full floating discs if you still street because of noise.

?

I have no noticable extra noise from mine.

[GuidoK]

Do you have curved or flat washers on the bolts that hold the disc to the centerpiece?
Curved=anti-rattle; the same effect as Brembo GT which uses special spring clips.

[Gt4]

Originally Posted by EMP07

Dust Shield is the biggest pain. Dremeled the rears, and pulled the front bearings to completely remove the fronts.

Do it again, I would do 4 pot AP's on the front and rear. Not sure I would go full floating discs if you still street because of noise.

You don't need to remove the front bearings to remove the dust shield. Cut it with a dremel.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by aestheticstorm

How did you cut it? Dremel?

Good pair of tin snips will cut through like butter