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07-22-2012, 12:43 PM | #1 |
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Wierd throttle response
So today when I was out driving my Z4 M Coupe I noticed something I've never experienced before. I was cruising along in 6th gear and was going to drive past a car. I shifted down to 4th and the car settled at about 3000 rpm, as I was going to drive past I floored it. The revs raced about 500 rpm then it dropped about 100-200 rpm and then continued to accelerate like normal. Wierd or what?
And no, I didn't slip the clutch. Though the feeling was similar to clutch slip. 4th was fully engaged before I floored the pedal. DSC? Doubt it in 4th gear. Either way I tried it a few more times. Cruising at 3000 rpm in 4th and flooring it. Sometimes it accelerated all the way without the "Clutch slip feel". But more often this problem occured. I tried it with and without sport mode, same shit. Has anyone of you noticed this before? Do I have to reset the throttle response? Is it some built in drive train protection? I might mention that I usually push the throttle more "linear". Not flooring it all of a sudden, like I did today. |
07-22-2012, 02:58 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by Finnegan; 07-22-2012 at 09:28 PM.. |
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07-22-2012, 03:20 PM | #4 |
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Clutch
There's nothing else to slip with a manual trans other than the tires. Milage on the clutch doesn't matter. some people can wear one out in 10,000 miles and others can get 200,000 miles out of one. |
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07-22-2012, 03:37 PM | #5 | |
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Smells like this is going to be expensive (pun intended)... |
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07-22-2012, 03:45 PM | #6 |
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DSC
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2006 Z4MC - #LL93158
SS Race Cans, RE X Pipe, DKF Sec 1, Fabspeed Headers, OE STB, AS Shifter, Dave Z CDV, GC Coil Overs, Stoptech lines, Hawk DTC Pads, RE Clutch Stop, RE Transmission Mounts, Vibra-Technics Engine Mounts, Poly FCAB & RTAB, LeatherZ M Shift Boot, Tekarbon Rear Spoiler, CF Grills, Advan RS DGM |
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07-22-2012, 04:56 PM | #8 |
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It doesn't have to smell for the clutch to slip. Just keep trying stuff. The best test is to go full throttle in 4th gear, and see if the RPMs jump. Also watch for the traction control light.
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07-22-2012, 06:40 PM | #9 |
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I am serious. If the road has any imperfections DSC will kick in and yes it does not always light the dash symbol.
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2006 Z4MC - #LL93158
SS Race Cans, RE X Pipe, DKF Sec 1, Fabspeed Headers, OE STB, AS Shifter, Dave Z CDV, GC Coil Overs, Stoptech lines, Hawk DTC Pads, RE Clutch Stop, RE Transmission Mounts, Vibra-Technics Engine Mounts, Poly FCAB & RTAB, LeatherZ M Shift Boot, Tekarbon Rear Spoiler, CF Grills, Advan RS DGM |
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07-22-2012, 06:42 PM | #10 |
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Drives: ESS/G-Power Z4M, VF Z4, 996tt
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Clutch. Not being able to hold torque is one of the signs your clutch needs replacement. Your foot doesn't need to be anywhere near the left pedal, because it's not related. Google signs you need a new clutch.
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08-09-2012, 03:42 AM | #12 |
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Now the clutch has been replaced and the car runs like a dream again. The clutch is engaging almost at the bottom, when I bought it it engaged half way up. The previous owner must have abused the clutch.
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08-09-2012, 10:13 AM | #13 |
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Drives: ESS/G-Power Z4M, VF Z4, 996tt
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Thanks for the update!
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08-09-2012, 10:30 AM | #14 |
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Sorry to hear you had to put that kind of $$$ into the car shortly after purchasing it but happy to hear it's fixed. Now you can put that in the past and enjoy her to her full potential again.
I'm putting the Zed on my lift to delete my CDV today when I get done screwing around on the internet in a bit. If there's enough slack in the hose I'll completely take it out. If not, I'll gut the valve and put it back in. Here's a DIY link I found for an M3 when I was searching this forum and it looks simple enough. I've been driving almost nothing but manual transmissions in cars for 32 years and for 10 years with over 1.5 million documented miles in semi trucks and have even bought 2 cars that had automatic transmissions in them that didn't come with a manual transmission and did the conversions to manual myself within a month of buying them. I don't even like driving my wifes Dodge Journey with an automatic because it's too hard for me to drive LOL. I'm always looking for the clutch pedal and grabbing the shifter. The delay valve is nothing but irritating to me and I hate even the thought of a component like the CDV that can cause accelerated wear on something when I know for a fact I can get an average of 150k - 200k miles on clutches in my cars. |
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08-09-2012, 01:07 PM | #15 |
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Just finished removing the CDV in my 2006 3.0i and taking a test drive. It's a whole different car.
Nice positive clutch engagement, much better shifts (especially 2nd gear) and can feather the clutch much much better now when needed. I don't know how the Z4M hose is set up but on the 3.0i it's in a 180 degree loop and there was plenty of slack to just remove the valve and not have to put in a modified one. In fact before I did the job the hose was rubbing slightly on a wiring loom and now it isn't and still has plenty of play for movement as the engine torques. The job was also easier on the 3.0i than shown on the M3 DIY link I posted as there is just one small cover to remove with 4 screws in it and there's actually enough room to do the job without removing the cover but it's easier to access with the cover off. Sorry, no pics. I was looking for my camera but couldn't find it. I think it's in the wifes car and she went into town. It took me longer to put the car on the lift and gather the 3 wrenches and an 8mm socket out of my tool boxes than it did do the actual job. |
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08-09-2012, 05:29 PM | #16 |
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Good to hear that your car/clutch performs better without the CDV. Thanks for the url to the DIY. I'll do it when I get the time. I'm just happy to drive my M again without clutch slip.
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