not starting

[RobMCoupe]

This sounds like key code anti-thief protection. You need a code reader and check. My son's Z3 had the same problem. The will not start after work. I resync EWS.

[bigbacon]

Originally Posted by RobMCoupe

This sounds like key code anti-thief protection. You need a code reader and check. My son's Z3 had the same problem. The will not start after work. I resync EWS.

can you explain this? I can still open the trunk and lock doors with the key I was using.

[bigbacon]

battery was charged and checked out and same thing. So I guess its getting towed and looked at.

[bigbacon]

Where exactly is the fuel pump in the tank? Is the tank behind the seats? I can hear something go for a few seconds behind the passenger seat when I put key at 2

[RobMCoupe]

Originally Posted by bigbacon

can you explain this? I can still open the trunk and lock doors with the key I was using.

This thread might help. There are plenty to google car not starting with good battery.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=310522

[bigbacon]

car cranks though and neither key makes it start.

[bigbacon]

Is there a PDF floating around of the repair manual for these vehicles?

I would like to try and diagnose the fuel delivery and I'm hoping one can undo the line into the engine, put it in a bucket and turn key to 2 and see if fuel ends up in the bucket.

[bigbacon]

I pulled the plugs, they are wet and smell of gas. Assuming no matter what I need to buy new ones now.

how do I test for spark safely?


pics:
http://starshipvonbraun.com/von/ss//...//P1040284.JPG
http://starshipvonbraun.com/von/ss//...//P1040286.JPG

[ANUSTART]

You could start with a multimeter first and test for current down to the plugs. Those plugs are a little dirty, but should be usable after everthing dries out. You need two things, fuel and spark and you are definitely getting fuel.

It's likely not a coil as you would start but it would be rough. My guess is start at the ignition and work your way to the plugs. Have you checked all your fuses?

[bigbacon]

is there a fuse chart somewhere? there are like 100 fuses and I know i dont need to pull all of them and look.

[ANUSTART]

Check your owners manual. If you don't have one, you can download it from BMW USA's website.

[bigbacon]

manual doesn't say anything

[Shipkiller]

http://www.shipkiller.com/Ignition_Coils_Schematic.pdf

[bigbacon]

so are there more fuxes and stuff in that box in the engine bay?

[ANUSTART]

The fuses are cleaverly hidden behind the glove box. See page 95 of your owners manual. Silly place for them. Also, look at the link below, it may give you some guidance...

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=363757

[bigbacon]

all the fuses are good.

I am not getting spark across the board. Fuel is fine.

Pulled some of the coil and just did some meter tests and I was getting resistance on them between the top most connection and where the spark plug goes in.

I think got shits and giggles if advanced auto will allow me to return it, I may pick up a new battery just to see what happens. I know it is a long shot but I think it would be worth trying just to rule out the battery 100%.

I know batteries going dead acan cause all sorts of odd behaviors.

[Shipkiller]

Why would you waist your time exchanging your battery if the car cranks??? The battery is not the issue. Something else is.

Just reading through the posts, it appears that:

1. The starter is good because the car cranks.
2. Fuel flow appears to be functioning properly since the plugs are wet. To verify this, clean and dry the plugs, reinsert them and attempt to start, then pull a plug. If it wet, then your fuel delivery system most likely is good.
3. Pull the connector off of one coil and place a voltmeter on the connector. Are you getting 12Volts? Do this on all six coils. No voltage means no spark.... Possibilities are but not limited to the fuse or DME.
4. Pull a coil out. Leave it connected to the DME. Insert some type of metal dowel (or equivalent) and lay on the engine with a 1/4 to 1/8" gap but NOT touching. Attempt start. Does the spark jump the gap to the engine?

I am not going on any further. You can figure out the rest. A ODB-II reader would be a big help in this instance. A laptop diagnostic would be even better.



.

[ANUSTART]

^ Everything he said.

[bigbacon]

do the coils have 12v going to them all the time?

I only did the battery swap just to completely rule it out as batteries can do funky things. My friend had a honda that did something similar, everything checks out, get new battery and bam, works fine. It isn't a lot of trouble to get one test it and then return the battery.

[Shipkiller]

No they do not. If they did, there would be a constant spark being generated. The DME turns the coil on and off.

Coils are just a step 'step up' transformer.

If you look at the schematic I provided previously, Pin one connects to the DME and pin three to the fuse carrier (fuse box). Pin two is external ground and pin four is internal to the Coil and is the spark plug.


.

[bigbacon]

so how do I test it without hurting myself? Also the schematic wasn't very helpful for me as I can't understand it.

I am not a electrical or mechanical master, specially on this car, I know jack shit about it except out to to basic stuff. I assume I would need someone to crank the car while the multimeter is hooked up to the coil's wiring plug?

also I have NO idea what DME means

Where is the CPS and how do you test it?

[partlowr]

Originally Posted by bigbacon

so how do I test it without hurting myself? Also the schematic wasn't very helpful for me as I can't understand it.

I am not a electrical or mechanical master, specially on this car, I know jack shit about it except out to to basic stuff. I assume I would need someone to crank the car while the multimeter is hooked up to the coil's wiring plug?

also I have NO idea what DME means

Where is the CPS and how do you test it?

Wow, no offense man but I do not think you are qualified to be tinkering with it based on some of your comments/questions. I mean absolutely no disrespect but call a proffesional and have the car towed. You are libel to screw it up worse than it all ready is, we are bringing up the most simple of diagnostic tests/checks and you have no idea what we are talking about.

For the record I am sticking with my first diagnosis of coilpack or ignition problem.