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11-15-2011, 10:01 AM | #1 |
Turd in the Punch Bowl
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Working With Carver Subs.....
I took out the subs and mounting plates behind the seats to see if there is anything I could do to improve the sound or eliminate some rattling..
Would pulling out the foam baffles in the enclosures and replacing with Dynamat Extreme produce better sound from subs? What about possibly adding Dynamat and putting back the foam also? I also noticed, in the enclosure, there is a top port with a rubber grommet.. Is it necessary for our subs to be ported or could I seal that off?? Anyway, I am just trying to gather some information on how to get the best sound out of our Carver systems... Any audiophiles out there? |
11-15-2011, 11:33 PM | #2 |
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Give up on the OEM subs. They are a lost cause. If you're after a better bottom end go the LOC convertor out of the OEM amp (assuming Top Hifi system) into a new amp to new subs...route.
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11-15-2011, 11:46 PM | #3 |
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If you keep them, I would do what I did................. pull the rubber out and deaden the entire panel and the front baffle next to the driver, dynamat or other similar product ......... then put the rubber back in. Set your fader +3 to the front (takes out some of the excess boom in the Carver subs). Drop the 80hz EQ band down one notch (-1), and the 200hz band -4. I have the BSW stage one upgrade, and the remainder of my EQ is 500hz -1, 1,000hz flat (0), 2,000hz flat(0) , 5,000hz -3 (if you have the OEM tweeters leave this flat), and 12,000hz flat (0) ......... or +1 for OEM tweets.
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11-18-2011, 05:57 PM | #5 |
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Alright guys... There is a problem... It reminds me of my old high school booming days in the early 90s.. It is like a polarity wiring issue.. If I have both subs hooked up the whole audio system is really weak.. If I have no subs hooked up, the system is clear and pretty good.. If I have one sub hooked up and the other installed, (but unhooked) the system is clear with some good bass... As soon as I hook both subs up, the system sounds like an old paper cone AM radio and no bass.... I am unsure of the wiring diagram, but my thinking is that one of the wires that run from the DSP amp is reversed in polarity.. From what I remember in high school, if you screw up the positive and negative wires, you would have this effect.. Before I start cutting and splicing I wanted to post this to see if anyone has any input...
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11-18-2011, 08:22 PM | #6 | |
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11-18-2011, 08:57 PM | #7 |
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Yep,... trying to figure out where to start... Any ideas? I know that the battery was replaced about a week before I bought it... Does the amplifier connect directly to the battery? Is there something I should look for on the positive connector of the battery?
Last edited by MHeavNC; 11-18-2011 at 09:41 PM.. |
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11-19-2011, 12:21 AM | #8 |
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I'm a little confused. Did it sound this way before you rolled up your sleeves and disconnected the subs?
You can find the amplifier pinouts on Bill's web space writeup on his subwoofer installation http://www.billswebspace.com/A18%20Amplifier.htm |
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11-19-2011, 01:40 AM | #9 | |
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I have the same top hi fi system in my wifes 3.0i Roadster and it rocks compared to my M Coupe.. The only difference is the M has Nav.. The system has sounded awful since I had the car (2 weeks).. At first I thought that it may just be a rattling issue or blown rear speakers.. I checked all subs by removing them and switching them out with the roadster... Roadster still rocks while Coupe is still sucking...... So the subs are fine... I then unhooked both subs in the Coupe and noticed that the audio came to life a little with the remaining 8 speakers... Plugging the subs back up makes everything sound bad / weak... So now I am down to the amp, fuses, and wiring.. I have a feeling that the problem is the amp.... Thanks for the link.. It may come in handy later today.. Last edited by MHeavNC; 11-19-2011 at 02:52 AM.. |
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11-19-2011, 11:40 AM | #10 | |
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11-19-2011, 12:07 PM | #11 | |
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11-29-2011, 03:15 PM | #12 |
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Let us know how it works out. It doesn't make much sense that someone took the time to switch the wires and connectors. I have been having trouble getting clear sound from my Carvers for awhile now. I have tried everything but replacing the amp.
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11-29-2011, 07:05 PM | #13 |
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I am about ready to give up on them.. I guess I am going to try and accept the fact that my roadster's system sounds great and my Coupe sounds good under the hood... I am just going to dynamat a few things and go with it...
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11-29-2011, 11:14 PM | #14 |
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I think it's the BMW amp. From everything I've read, I'm pretty sure the sub. portion of my amp is done. It hasn't affected the rest of the system when the subs are connected (as it sounds like yours has), but before and during the installation of my JBL MS-8 when I was able to isolate the subs while the HU was faded to the front, the output from the subs was very minimal.
How much $$ are you willing to throw at the system to make it sound better? |
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11-29-2011, 11:57 PM | #15 |
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Not sure what I would spend.. If I could just get it to sound like my wife's roadster,.... I would be happy.. I told her I was going to steal the amp out of her car... Lol!!!
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11-30-2011, 10:44 AM | #16 |
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Something is totally fubard with the amp or wiring... Here is an updated list of symptoms.. BTW I know that the subs are fine because I have both my subs currently installed in my wife's roadster and her system still rocks!! (I have to call it her roadster now)
1. When only passenger sub is hooked up, system sounds pretty good. 2. When only driver side sub is hooked up, system sounds terrible. 3. When both are hooked up, system sounds a tad better, but still horrible.. 4. When neither sub is hooked up, system sounds OK, lacking bass.. Then it gets good... Both subs are hooked up for these playing Starstruck by Lady Gaga... (Wifes CD) 5. When I fade to all the way to front, system sounds ok.. 6. Fade to the back is horrid.. (however, it sounds awful in my wife's roadster too) This is fine because my wife's rockin' system does the same thing.. 7. Moving balance to the right, sound is ok with some bass. 8. Moving balance to the left is brutal,.... that driver side sub kills it!! 9. With everything centered I noticed that the drivers side sub flutters like a butterfly compared to the passenger sub.. The passenger side sub moves more like my wife's roadster. (tight and precise) So all in all, the only way I can stand it is to have the driver sub disconnected, and the passenger sub connected.. In conclusion, I know that all the speakers are fine.. Could the amp do this? Could there be a firmware problem? Could a fuse be blown somewhere? My guess is the problem lies with the amplifier... Last edited by MHeavNC; 12-01-2011 at 10:03 AM.. |
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12-17-2011, 01:09 PM | #17 |
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I finally fixed my problems with the Carver subs. I found a used amp on eBay and swapped mine out. It fixed the problem immediately. I am guessing that the channel for the subs was blown.
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12-18-2011, 02:41 AM | #18 | |
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Last edited by MHeavNC; 12-18-2011 at 02:51 AM.. |
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12-23-2011, 07:14 PM | #19 | |
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12-23-2011, 08:29 PM | #20 |
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Looks that way.. They put in the order for my new amp today.. Since the amp was working,..... (but not working properly) I thought they may try and give me the run around... It will be an updated part number (65129138102) and I will let you guys know how it turns out... The one being replaced is part number (65129125751)
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12-24-2011, 10:02 AM | #21 |
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After reading this, I too am wondering if I have the same problem many of you described with a bad amp. Great thread btw, tons of useful info here especially to a newbie owner like myself. You folks know your stuff.
First I am still trying to make sure I have the premium hifi sound since the cars sound isn't amazing as it is now. Car does have 10 speakers including subs behind the seat (if you could call them subs), business CD in the dash and has 3 or 4 preset (concert, jazz, etc) eq settings. Car has premium package, but no Nav. Thoughts? Overall everything sounds good and clear, except the low range, which sounds the same as described above - fluttery and kinda blown out. Not that it needs to sound perfect, but I might benefit from an amp swap too, while under warranty, and need to figure that out sooner than later. |
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12-24-2011, 01:41 PM | #22 | |
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