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03-15-2015, 08:48 AM | #1 |
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UPDATED! WORKING!! - Xenon/HID and Fog light on Passenger side not working! HELP!
UPDATE!!
Passenger HID now works...magically. Went to the mechanic to show off the problem, but...it...started working. It's been out since June of last year and it just magically works again. I still need to find out how and why. The driver side fog light issue was due to a short in the wire. It's all sorted out now and works __________________________________________________ __________ The HID on the passenger side does not work! I've tried the following: - Replaced the bulb - Swapped the Ignitor - Swapped the ballast - Checked the headlight fuses in the fusebox (behind the glove box) What could it be?! Is there a Passenger Headlight relay or something that I'm missing? The Halogen High Beams work on both sides. [S]The Fog lights work on both sides.[/S] Now passenger fog light does not work! It's just the HID on the passenger side that does not work. Urgent help needed. I cannot drive at night due to this Last edited by SwissArmy; 03-22-2015 at 05:16 AM.. |
03-15-2015, 12:00 PM | #2 |
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I don't have an answer for you, but you could look at the schematics at bmw-planet dot com to see what's is in the lighting circuit. If I had to guess, I'd say it's the light control module (LSZ) $$$.
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03-15-2015, 12:21 PM | #3 |
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Drop it at the dealer and pay for diagnostics. They will tell you 2hstd wrong and you can go about fixing it yourself. You have already tried swapping everything from side to side with no luck.
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03-15-2015, 12:27 PM | #4 |
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When I took out the ballast on the passenger side (the non-working side). I see this:
The driver side (working side) is clean. I swapped this ballast with a new ballast I got off ebay, and it still does not work. Maybe it's something to do with the headlight housing? The wiring to the housing? I do have condensation on both sides. Maybe it's just a matter of removing the headlights and letting them dry, then re-sealing them properly? |
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03-15-2015, 01:06 PM | #5 |
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There's a controller somewhere along the line prior to the ballast. IIRC mine went bad at one point, the dealer (under warranty) did all you've already done, then concluded it was the controller. Sorry I do not remember more--it was several years ago and under warranty so there was no diy'ing involved. Realoem .com might give you some clues on the other components in the chain of items/electronics for headlights.
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03-15-2015, 01:20 PM | #6 | |
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Did the problem occur for just one headlight or to both? I don't understand how a malfunctioning light control module can affect just one headlight, and JUST the HID. |
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03-15-2015, 03:04 PM | #7 | |
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Now that I see your ballast, I think the problem may be the connection where the ballast plugs into the headlight. Check the connector where the power comes into the back of the headlight to make sure it has voltage for the low beam circuit. If it does, that will eliminate everything up to the headlight. |
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03-15-2015, 04:27 PM | #8 | |
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03-16-2015, 02:32 AM | #9 | ||
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Confirm you swapped in the working side module/ballast to the non-working side. (That you didn't just try the e-bay module.). The other possibility is a short in the wiring. Have you checked the continuity? |
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03-16-2015, 06:29 AM | #10 | |
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Put in the working eBay one (tested on driver side) into the passenger side. Nada. Haven't checked the continuity yet because I'm not sure how to lol. I'm not much of an electrician. I will be taking it into my indy mechanic tomorrow. |
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03-16-2015, 12:25 PM | #11 |
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Take it to the dealer or indy shop to get diagnosed. I have the issue where the Bi-Xenon will not stay on high beams and it usually only affects the passenger side. The drivers shutter will open but the passenger does not then it will keep both closed. It is the LCM. The LCM outputs to each side of the car separately. If you do a search you can find the pin out of the LCM and see if there is power coming out of the pin to the light. It is a PITA to do though.
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03-16-2015, 05:51 PM | #12 |
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It should be pretty easy to diagnose if the problem is with the headlight or the wiring up to the headlight since one side is working. Just go to the working side, pull the wiring plug from the back of the headlight off. Turn on the headlight switch, connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to ground, take the positive lead of the voltmeter to a pin 1 on the wiring connector, record the voltage (0V or 12v), do this for every pin on the connector. Now do the same to the bad side. If you get the same results for each side, then the wiring up to the headlight is good and the problem is at the headlight. If the results are different, then it's the car wiring circuit and or LCM. If you can read a schematic you would know exactly what pin on the headlight wiring plug to measure for voltage. Or take to a pro and have them do it.
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03-16-2015, 06:51 PM | #13 | |
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