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      07-14-2012, 08:24 PM   #1
davebho
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06 m coupe...we have floating rotors?

Had no idea...anyways anyone know or any other options for rotors except stock ones?
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      07-15-2012, 01:00 AM   #2
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I think the m's only came with floating roaters from the csl. Maybe, someone can chime in? Regarding non-oem..........why? What are you unable to achieve?
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      07-15-2012, 01:51 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post
I think the m's only came with floating roaters from the csl. Maybe, someone can chime in? Regarding non-oem..........why? What are you unable to achieve?
Correct.

My shop was able to get me replacement front rotors, aluminum hats, floating, drilled, vanes, just like OEM but a bit cheaper. (Needed new rotors last year, out of spec.) I do not recall what brand they are, but they've been great, and no problems even with several track days.
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      07-15-2012, 02:34 AM   #4
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I would just buy OEM. It's really not that expensive for what you get.
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      07-15-2012, 03:17 AM   #5
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i tried last year but.....CSL rotors did not fit for me.
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      07-15-2012, 07:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4-VILLA View Post
i tried last year but.....CSL rotors did not fit for me.
Huh? The M Roadster/Coupe has CSL brakes from the factory. This is one of the differences between it and a standard E46 M3.

From www.bmwmregistry.com:

What type of braking system does the E85 M Roadster have?
The braking system of the E85 M Roadster, which is identical to that of the E46 M3 CSL and E46 M3 with Competition Package (ZCP), consists of 13.7-inch cross-drilled rotors in the front and 12.9-inch cross-drilled rotors in the rear. These rotors employ a two-piece "compound" design whereby the aluminum hat is connected to the outer portion of the rotor via steel pins, which greatly improves heat dissipation under heavy braking conditions.
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      07-15-2012, 10:09 AM   #7
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The front left rotor on my M coupe seems pretty beat up and slightly warped....what's a set of OEM front rotors gonna cost for the M? I'm not one to turn or refurbish rotors (usually).
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      07-15-2012, 11:09 AM   #8
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They're about $250 each for the fronts and $150 each rear last time I checked. Prices might possibly be higher by now, but it's still cheap compared to replacement BBK parts

And I don't think these are turnable to begin with. If street use only, don't worry too much about meeting minimal thickness on the rotors, as long as you still have enough brake pad remaining and your fluid is still okay.
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      07-15-2012, 02:51 PM   #9
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Z4MC front rotors are P/N 34-11-2-282-445 left and 34-11-2-282-446 right. Best price I've found is from RM European http://www.rmeuropean.com/ for Zimmermann brand.
If you have really deep pockets then go for the Performance Friction rotors.



Quote:
Originally Posted by davebho View Post
Had no idea...anyways anyone know or any other options for rotors except stock ones?
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      07-15-2012, 02:57 PM   #10
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Tischer has them for $214.07. Not sure about shipping costs.
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      07-15-2012, 03:17 PM   #11
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Just trying to get cheaper and better

Quote:
Originally Posted by seank
I think the m's only came with floating roaters from the csl. Maybe, someone can chime in? Regarding non-oem..........why? What are you unable to achieve?
Reading that after arket pads are better then stock and figured Same may be true for rotors as well...
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      07-15-2012, 03:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebho View Post
Reading that after arket pads are better then stock and figured Same may be true for rotors as well...
Better for what? Is the question.

The OEM pads are about the best balanced pad for overall performance with little attention to amount of dust produced. There are much better track pads that work better when hot and are noisier, but the OEM pad gives excellent bite when cold (emergency stop situations) where pads that have much greater track performance perform badly. There are lower dust pads, but doesn't seem to be anything that gives better performance than OEM and lower dust.

Other than a big brake kit, the OEM rotors are as good as you can get.
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      07-15-2012, 04:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
Better for what? Is the question.

The OEM pads are about the best balanced pad for overall performance with little attention to amount of dust produced. There are much better track pads that work better when hot and are noisier, but the OEM pad gives excellent bite when cold (emergency stop situations) where pads that have much greater track performance perform badly. There are lower dust pads, but doesn't seem to be anything that gives better performance than OEM and lower dust.

Other than a big brake kit, the OEM rotors are as good as you can get.
Agreed on the Rotors. The Stop Tech Street Performance pads perform like OE in normal conditions (not winter) and I have run them hard at the track with good results.
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      07-15-2012, 06:14 PM   #14
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I have NEVER heard of a warped oem rotor ever! They will crack before they warp. If you think it is warped, it may need to be tightened or something is loose. Greese or other foreign material on rotors will give the perception of a warped rotor and shudder.

Inspect thoroughly before spending the money on new rotors.
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      07-15-2012, 06:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post
I have NEVER heard of a warped oem rotor ever! They will crack before they warp. If you think it is warped, it may need to be tightened or something is loose. Grease or other foreign material on rotors will give the perception of a warped rotor and shudder.

Inspect thoroughly before spending the money on new rotors.


Usually abnormal pad material buildup due improper bedding or being too easy on the brakes in normal driving.
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      07-15-2012, 09:31 PM   #16
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Thanks guys...will be ordering oem rotors

Good feedback...
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      07-16-2012, 08:24 AM   #17
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thanks guys! all good stuff! my car was a press car originally, so who knows how the brakes were bedded or just flat out abused early on... it just seems like the LF disc has much more disc surface worn away as compared to the others, and it has a sticky spot when turning the rotor by hand (more sticky than I would normally expect). But it's probably not warped like you guys said. I just kinda want to start fresh with this car and replace any questionables... thanks again for the info/prices/part nos.!
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      07-16-2012, 09:26 AM   #18
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Usually a "warped disk" has excessive build-up on the rotor with deposit. Some really hard stops (aka 60-0 panic stops) should eliminate this. Do this 4-6 times and see if the problem goes away.
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      07-16-2012, 03:05 PM   #19
davebho
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so what is the proper way to bed them?

so what is the proper way to 'bed' the rotors? Go easy on brakes for X miles?

Thanks,
Dave
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      07-16-2012, 04:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebho View Post
so what is the proper way to 'bed' the rotors? Go easy on brakes for X miles?

Thanks,
Dave
see here

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
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