Z4M at 85k miles. Need help with "refresh" planning

[inTgr8r]

IMO if you aren't a track junky, there's little to gain by changing to hardened bolts.
The issue is strictly one of improper torque at the factory.
AFAIK, there haven't been any broken bolts.

I properly torqued mine; no nordlocks; no loctite and have been running several years w/o issue. (I put a dab of paint on the head so that I could tell if they were backing out)

This whole issue has gained a life of its own that far exceeds the real issue. ....again JMO.

If replacing, there are two different lengths.
If you look them up on real OEM, it lists the bolt length and size.

[GP20]

Thanks inTgr8r! I appreciate your advice! I don't track my M, but just thought that since I'm going to replace the engine mounts, I might as well replace the mount bracket bolts for the peace of mind. Also purchased the Nord-Lock washer!

[The HACK]

Water pump, thermostat, radiator, belts, belt tensioners to start.

Ball joint/FCA. FCAB while you're at it, if you track. Replace FCA with replaceable ball joint. The only reason to replace the OEM FCA is to replace the ball joint.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

IMO if you aren't a track junky, there's little to gain by changing to hardened bolts.
The issue is strictly one of improper torque at the factory.
AFAIK, there haven't been any broken bolts.

I properly torqued mine; no nordlocks; no loctite and have been running several years w/o issue. (I put a dab of paint on the head so that I could tell if they were backing out)

This whole issue has gained a life of its own that far exceeds the real issue. ....again JMO.

If replacing, there are two different lengths.
If you look them up on real OEM, it lists the bolt length and size.

The only argument against that, which is very sound and valid, is if you're going to go in and tighten the bolt...

Might as well replace with hardened, 10.9 grade motorsport bolts and Nordlock because it takes the same amount of work and the parts are marginal/cheap-ish compared to the amount of work required to replace.

[inTgr8r]

^ yes, if loose, I agree replace rather than just re-torque.
I didn't make that clear.
If they have not become loose though, I wouldn't bother replacing.

[jdoublehcubed]

Originally Posted by The HACK

Water pump, thermostat, radiator, belts, belt tensioners to start.

Ball joint/FCA. FCAB while you're at it, if you track. Replace FCA with replaceable ball joint. The only reason to replace the OEM FCA is to replace the ball joint.

Where would one aquire such a handy replacement FCA?

[GP20]

Originally Posted by The HACK

Water pump, thermostat, radiator, belts, belt tensioners to start.

Ball joint/FCA. FCAB while you're at it, if you track. Replace FCA with replaceable ball joint. The only reason to replace the OEM FCA is to replace the ball joint.

Thanks The HACK! Really appreciate the info. I was actually hoping you would chime in! I'll add them onto my list of things to replace before or at (my 2nd) Inspection 2.

[GP20]

I ended up changing my mind about the Vibra Technics engine mounts and decided to go with OEM.

But the engine mounts that I purchased from Turner Motorsports that I thought were supposed to be BMW parts turned out to be NOT. They're some brand called Corteco.

I thought that their webpage is a little misleading and made no mention of the part being aftermarket or the manufacturer. I found the part by searching the BMW part numbers on Turners site.

Anybody heard of Corteco?

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by jdoublehcubed

Where would one aquire such a handy replacement FCA?

Replaceable FCA ball joint.... Would like to know source as well.

[Daemonblitz]

This thread scares me...I'm at 81k miles now and I've already done a bunch of things, but damn, so much to worry about

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by Daemonblitz

This thread scares me...I'm at 81k miles now and I've already done a bunch of things, but damn, so much to worry about

The joys of owning a high mileage, older bavarian steel (or in some cases, aluminum).

[RADRACR]

Originally Posted by Daemonblitz

This thread scares me...I'm at 81k miles now and I've already done a bunch of things, but damn, so much to worry about

A little paranoia though, to be sure.

[GP20]

Did some research and fair enough, Corteco is the engine mount OE supplier for BMW. Guess I'll keep and use the Corteco mounts I received instead of buying them again from Tischer.

But still, I thought Turner could've done a better job on their webpage indicating that these are not genuine BMW parts they're selling so that there's no surprise.

[DanFromTucson]

[QUOTE=GP20;17665225]I ended up changing my mind about the Vibra Technics engine mounts and decided to go with OEM.QUOTE]

I'm curious why you didn't go with the Vibra Technics. Everyone seems to love them.

[DanFromTucson]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

The issue is strictly one of improper torque at the factory.

The torque spec on these bolts is really low. 21 Nm, if I remember correctly. I recently changed mine to the grade 10.9 + Nord-Locks. I agree a grade 10.9 is probably overkill, but I'm glad I did the Nord-Locks given that the torque is so low.

For what it's worth, a few of my original bolts seemed a bit looser than 21 Nm, but none were backed out by 42K miles.

-----

And to add a contribution to the thread... replace your constant pressure valve (CPV) O-Ring if it's leaking. This is a common oil leak on the S54 engine block. It's on the drivers' side just in front of the bell-housing. You will see the oil on the bottom of the intersection between the block and bell-housing and think it's a failed rear main seal (ask me how I know).

A few companies sell upgraded O-Rings for around $5. You will need a big-ass flathead screwdriver bit for a 3/8 or 1/2" wrench. I replaced mine when I had the exhaust manifolds off and it was a 2-minute job. I'm not sure how hard it is to reach with the manifolds in place though.

[GP20]

Originally Posted by DanFromTucson

I'm curious why you didn't go with the Vibra Technics. Everyone seems to love them.

I was set to buy the Vibra engine mounts but the U.S. distributor never gave me any confirmed date when the mounts would be back in stock and ready to ship. At the same time, I read that a few members on m3forum had longevity issues with the mounts and also slowly increased vibrations over a longer period of time. It seems like most people on zpost don't have issues with them. Since I don't track my M, I was fine with using OEM mounts.

[StickMon]

Originally Posted by DanFromTucson

... You will need a big-ass flathead screwdriver bit for a 3/8 or 1/2" wrench. I replaced mine when I had the exhaust manifolds off and it was a 2-minute job. I'm not sure how hard it is to reach with the manifolds in place though.

Not much room with the headers installed.
I used a 9/16" "Drag Link Socket'.
I filed the tip some so it had flat sides to get a good bite without slipping out.
I have a monster screwdriver bit set, but the 9/16" is about 2" long. No room to get that in.
There may be blood. When mine broke loose I cut my knuckle on an O2 sensor.

[GP20]

I had these done at close to 86K miles a couple of day ago:

- new OEM engine mounts & OEM nuts
- Rogue Engineering transmission mounts
- 10.9 engine mount bracket bolts & nordlock washers (the 6 shorter ones are BMW motorsport bolts; the 2 longer ones are zinc-plated McMaster bolts)
- new OEM reinforcement plate bolts (one-time use)
- transmission fluid (MTF-LT2)
- differential fluid (SAF-XJ + Friction Modifier)
- new OEM transmission & differential fill/drain plugs


The old mounts actually visually look fine and not terribly worn. But the car had a bit more vibrations at idle and the new mounts fixed that. Overall, I'd say these replacements make a very subtle but noticeable difference. Gear changes are slightly easier and crispier. Still not a night-and-day difference, but maybe a 10~15% improvement. No additional noise or vibration from the RE transmission mounts, but maybe while driving I feel like I can "feel" and "hear" the mechanisms working just a little bit more than before; placebo effect? I have no idea. It feels that way.

Here are some torque specs to make it easier for those who are searching for them, since I had to spend about an hour reading several different thread to gather them all up:

- OEM engine mounts 42 Nm / 31 ft-lbs
- 10.9 engine mount bracket bolts 24 Nm / 18 ft-lbs
- reinforcement plate bolts 59 Nm / 44 ft-lbs and then angle torque 90 degrees
- OEM transmission drain and fill plugs 26 ft-lbs
- OEM differential drain plug 48 ft-lbs; fill plug 45 ft-lbs
- Rogue Engineering transmission mount top and bottom nuts 21 Nm / 15 ft-lbs

[Daemonblitz]

+1 on the constant pressure valve, Getting my headers done ATM and noticed this leaking quite a bit while they were off. I was in a pinch for time so rather than ordering the $5 ring from the states and waiting for it to come in, I had to dish out close to $100 and order the valve itself from BMW for the next day.

Originally Posted by DanFromTucson

The torque spec on these bolts is really low. 21 Nm, if I remember correctly. I recently changed mine to the grade 10.9 + Nord-Locks. I agree a grade 10.9 is probably overkill, but I'm glad I did the Nord-Locks given that the torque is so low.

For what it's worth, a few of my original bolts seemed a bit looser than 21 Nm, but none were backed out by 42K miles.

-----

And to add a contribution to the thread... replace your constant pressure valve (CPV) O-Ring if it's leaking. This is a common oil leak on the S54 engine block. It's on the drivers' side just in front of the bell-housing. You will see the oil on the bottom of the intersection between the block and bell-housing and think it's a failed rear main seal (ask me how I know).

A few companies sell upgraded O-Rings for around $5. You will need a big-ass flathead screwdriver bit for a 3/8 or 1/2" wrench. I replaced mine when I had the exhaust manifolds off and it was a 2-minute job. I'm not sure how hard it is to reach with the manifolds in place though.