bye my love :(

AWM3 · 06-29-2010, 06:14 PM

Dealer won't do anything until they break. Usually they will claim they were "checked and fine" and then they can break any time after that. If you are inclined to replace the engine mount bolts yourself with grade 10.9 hardware (a necessity in my opinion) here is the DIY:

Regarding sourcing the necessary parts, I recommend McMaster-Carr or the special BMW part numbers for the grade 10.9 bolts. Hardened M8 washers are also required. Blue thread locker is available at any auto parts store. If you wish to attempt this job yourself, here are some specific recommendations:

The car needs to be up on jackstands with the plastic belly pan under the radiator removed and also the aluminum belly pan under the engine removed. Rather than separate the two pieces of the aluminum belly pan, just leave them attached together and remove as a unit. Both front wheels should also be off the car.

Access to the passenger side is easier than the drivers side. The front two passenger side bolts are the longer ones. To get to them, you must undo and remove the fastening bolt that holds the VANOS accumulator bracket around the accumulator. Also it will be easier if you remove the attachment of the ground wire at the engine just next to the VANOS accumulator. After doing this, you can just push the VANOS accumulator up and out of the way, it is on a flexible hose. You now have fairly easy access to the two front engine mount bolts on the passenger side. The two rear bolts will also be fairly easy to get to from underneath the car with the aluminum pan removed.

On the driver's side, the two rear bolts are easier than the front. There is an electrical connector in front of the upper bolt that blocks access; look at this carefully so you can see how it detaches and then remove the electrical connector to get access to the bolt. The drivers side bolts must be worked on from above. The lower rear bolt is pretty easy but the upper rear bolt is not visible and you have to work by feel - you cannot actually see what you are doing. Remember to replace the electrical connector when finished.

The front drivers side bolts are the most difficult. I was able to gain access by removing the complete air filter box (upper and lower sections) along with the curved plastic pipe that attaches to the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold itself. It also helps to remove the bolts holding the power steering fluid reservoir so that it can be pushed slightly out of the way. After removing these parts, you can use a very long extension and a socket to loosen the engine mount bolts. A magnet on a long wand will hep with pulling the bolts out, because you may not be able to get your fingers in there. Similarly, you can use the magnet wand to carefully place the new bolts in the empty hole, and then use your long extension and socket to tighten the bolts. Then reassemble and you are done.

Since the aluminum belly pan is a suspension reinforcement, I would have the car with the weight on the tires so the chassis will be under the correct stress before tightening the holding bolts for the aluminum pan.

06-29-2010, 06:14 PM	#23
AWM3 BMW Fan 11 Rep 553 Posts Drives: 2012 E92 M3, Alpine White Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Georgia, USA iTrader: (0)	Dealer won't do anything until they break. Usually they will claim they were "checked and fine" and then they can break any time after that. If you are inclined to replace the engine mount bolts yourself with grade 10.9 hardware (a necessity in my opinion) here is the DIY: Regarding sourcing the necessary parts, I recommend McMaster-Carr or the special BMW part numbers for the grade 10.9 bolts. Hardened M8 washers are also required. Blue thread locker is available at any auto parts store. If you wish to attempt this job yourself, here are some specific recommendations: The car needs to be up on jackstands with the plastic belly pan under the radiator removed and also the aluminum belly pan under the engine removed. Rather than separate the two pieces of the aluminum belly pan, just leave them attached together and remove as a unit. Both front wheels should also be off the car. Access to the passenger side is easier than the drivers side. The front two passenger side bolts are the longer ones. To get to them, you must undo and remove the fastening bolt that holds the VANOS accumulator bracket around the accumulator. Also it will be easier if you remove the attachment of the ground wire at the engine just next to the VANOS accumulator. After doing this, you can just push the VANOS accumulator up and out of the way, it is on a flexible hose. You now have fairly easy access to the two front engine mount bolts on the passenger side. The two rear bolts will also be fairly easy to get to from underneath the car with the aluminum pan removed. On the driver's side, the two rear bolts are easier than the front. There is an electrical connector in front of the upper bolt that blocks access; look at this carefully so you can see how it detaches and then remove the electrical connector to get access to the bolt. The drivers side bolts must be worked on from above. The lower rear bolt is pretty easy but the upper rear bolt is not visible and you have to work by feel - you cannot actually see what you are doing. Remember to replace the electrical connector when finished. The front drivers side bolts are the most difficult. I was able to gain access by removing the complete air filter box (upper and lower sections) along with the curved plastic pipe that attaches to the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold itself. It also helps to remove the bolts holding the power steering fluid reservoir so that it can be pushed slightly out of the way. After removing these parts, you can use a very long extension and a socket to loosen the engine mount bolts. A magnet on a long wand will hep with pulling the bolts out, because you may not be able to get your fingers in there. Similarly, you can use the magnet wand to carefully place the new bolts in the empty hole, and then use your long extension and socket to tighten the bolts. Then reassemble and you are done. Since the aluminum belly pan is a suspension reinforcement, I would have the car with the weight on the tires so the chassis will be under the correct stress before tightening the holding bolts for the aluminum pan.
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