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      05-25-2011, 04:09 PM   #67
MakoBimmer1
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UPDATE: I used a piece of felt with adhesive on the backside and place it on the spot where the hose is rubbing the center of the Strong Strut. Good idea or not?

PLEASE ADVISE!

Let me know... it did take care of the banging noise I hear from the engine compartment when going over rough spots in the road.
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      05-25-2011, 04:23 PM   #68
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I would think the engine bay temps would melt the adhesive in no time. In any case, you don't really want the air tube banging against the strut bar even if noise is no longer an issue.
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      05-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 45ACP View Post
I would think the engine bay temps would melt the adhesive in no time. In any case, you don't really want the air tube banging against the strut bar even if noise is no longer an issue.
True dat...well shizzle.
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      05-26-2011, 07:13 PM   #70
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Nice write up and pics. I noticed the same thing with a dry fit. Once I torqued mine down the contact happened. Great fix with the taper flat stock and good catch with the washers. Funny thing is I wondered about them when I did the install. As usual you took it to the next step and actually checked them as well as the final clearance. But I'm not surprised.



Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
I finally got around to installing my Strong Strut bar.

Following are few things that I ran into and how I worked around them.
First, I did not contact Paul @ Strong Strut, mainly because I didn't want to wait around.
I know their product support is 1st rate, I just wasn't willing to wait.

I had the same clearance issues as some others have had here.

One thing that I noticed while installing was that the clearance looked fine with everything loosely fitted.
I thought I was good to go.

I first snugged ( not fully tightened) the rings, then the threaded bar bolt then the inner bolt & nut.
...everything still good.

I fully tightened the rings, then the outer bar bolts.
Then as I tightened down the inner bolt & nut I could see the bar draw down closer & closer to the tube on the engine.

This told me that the bar itself is not a problem, but that the plane (angle) of the rings to bar mating surface is off a bit, thus bowing the bar down.

I know Paul supplies spacers as req'd, but I thought a tapered shim would be the best solution.

Well, since it was a holiday and I didn't have a source to pick up a taper shim; I made my own.
I used 1/8 aluminum flat stock, put it in a vise and ground it down to a taper.

..my tapered shim.


bar installed & torqued down with tapered shim installed.
....tons of clearance.


I decided to check clearances to the bonnet.


....results
The middle still has lots of room.
The rings are the tightest for clearance.


One other thing of note.
IMO the washers used under the ring nuts are inadequate.
Note how this washer is dished after being torqued once.
IMO, I think this could lead to problems, so I will be replacing them with something more substantial.
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      09-28-2011, 01:57 AM   #71
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My washers are doing the same thing (dished) and I'm using 2 of them on each stud! I think the problem is a combination of the oversized slotted holes on the tower rings and the acorn nut not having large enough contact surface area to the washer. Therefore placing all the clamping force in the middle of the oversized slotted holes instead of evenly on the entire washer, essentially pushing (squeezing) the washer down on the oversized slotted holes.

I decided to experiment this weekend and just went out and bought some automotive M8x1.25mm flange nuts with a 17mm outer diameter that fits in the countersunk holes almost perfectly (I think 18mm outer diameter will fit and is a bit better if you can find that - I believed the OEM flange nuts are 19mm outer diameter which will NOT fit in the countersunk holes). I think the best solution would be if the countersunk holes can be bored out a bit to fit the OEM flange nut.

Note in the attached pictures how much more surface clamping area you get with the flange nut compared to the acorn nut.
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Last edited by XMetal; 09-28-2011 at 02:08 AM..
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      09-28-2011, 06:44 AM   #72
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I have done this as well using case hardened washers.
Definitely an improvement!
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