1 month ownership questions

[1SerieStud]

After one month of owning and enjoying my M coupe, I have the following questions:

1) My car has been doing this at random: when I hit the "close" button to close the navi screen, it starts closing and then it goes right back to the open position. This happens one out of maybe 20-25 times and it's very random. Anyone experienced this before?

2) I've only seen this twice, but while driving, the car has flashed 2-3 cluster lights simultaneously. It happens so fast that I can't remember exactly which ones they are - they come on and go right off. I want to say maybe the brake light and two others...anyone seen this before?

3) After having my front wheels rebalanced twice in the last week, I've concluded that my car may need new lower control arm bushings. I've been reading on the subject and it appears to be a simple DIY, however, I've read mixed opinions. If I buy the whole lollipops (so that I don't have to swap the bushings from the existing ones) how easy or difficult is it to replace the lollipops? After taking off the two bolts that hold them in place, do they come off easily?

Thanks!

[bosstones]

Wrt to # 1, I can't say that I've run into that before on my Moupe. I do not close it all that often, though. If it is closed and I change audio tracks with the steering wheel controls it just flips back open again. I have submitted to this annoying stupid function.

[XMetal]

1) I haven't experienced this on mine. As with bosstones, I mostly leave it open/close on its own since it will flip open anyway if you tried to use any button.

2) Haven't experienced this either.

3) This video show changing with the car in the air. I was wondering if you can do this with the front wheel on a ramp?

[1SerieStud]

Thanks folks…#1 and #2 happen very random…#2 has only happened twice since my ownership, so I wonder if the car is trying to tell me something, considering that I will be needing brakes soon. The navi screen incident is interesting…I think it's probably something similar to auto-up window systems, where if the window is going up and catches something, it will stop and go all the way back down. I wonder if the navi motor is feeling some sort of resistance when trying to fold down the screen, and then it pops right back up; when it happens, it doesn't even close 1/3 of the way before it reverses and goes back open. It could also be a loose harness for this mechanism? Who knows.

I found out, because every time I change stations, as pointed out above, the screen pops open. Frankly, unless using the navi feature, I prefer for it to be closed.

Xmetal: chances are that the replacement of the bushings cannot be done with the front wheels on ramps, because that causes the suspension to be compressed (preloaded). You may be able to loosen everything up, but once it's out, you many not be able to put it back on. I had the same thought, but about everything I've read so far indicates that the wheels needs to be removed and the car needs to be in the air. Thanks for the video. I wonder if I need a puller, or if I can just pull and yank the lollipop off once the 2 bolts are out?

[Walkurie]

Originally Posted by bosstones

Wrt to # 1, I can't say that I've run into that before on my Moupe. I do not close it all that often, though. If it is closed and I change audio tracks with the steering wheel controls it just flips back open again. I have submitted to this annoying stupid function.

Have had this, does not seem to mean anything.

[1SerieStud]

Originally Posted by Walkurie

Have had this, does not seem to mean anything.

Have had what? What I reported or what bosstones reported? Mine is definitely not normal, what he reported IS normal.

[Walkurie]

When I hit the close button it does not always close.

[StickMon]

#2 might be the battery.

I have to get around to #3 one of these days.
I have the lolipops, but I'm probably going to buy the Koch Tools gadget set.

[1SerieStud]

Originally Posted by StickMon

#2 might be the battery.

I have to get around to #3 one of these days.
I have the lolipops, but I'm probably going to buy the Koch Tools gadget set.

Really? I did notice that the battery in my car was changed by the prior owner, probably recently. The battery itself is smaller than the original one, as it doesn't fill in all of the tray - however, this doesn't necessarily it's the wrong battery, considering that size is independent of output. Has a bad battery caused this before?

[StickMon]

That's a common mistake. You have an H5 instead of an H6.
Same was in my car when I first bought it.
Local auto parts outlets like AutoZone and Pep Boys list the wrong one.

[1SerieStud]

Originally Posted by StickMon

That's a common mistake. You have an H5 instead of an H6.
Same was in my car when I first bought it.
Local auto parts outlets like AutoZone and Pep Boys list the wrong one.

Oh snap, really??? That could explain the random long cranks? Could this be causing the dash light issues I'm seeing? Please tell me exactly which battery I need.

[StickMon]

Battery Options Summary Listing

I have this.

The same one is sold by other local auto parts joints, under their own brand names.
It looks like they all buy then private labeled from the same original manufacturer.

[1SerieStud]

Originally Posted by StickMon

Battery Options Summary Listing

I have this.

The same one is sold by other local auto parts joints, under their own brand names.
It looks like they all buy then private labeled from the same original manufacturer.

Extremely helpful, thank you! So chances are the battery in my car is not pumping out enough juice and it's causing it to go into a "loss of power," which in turn makes the dash lights flash?

[StickMon]

That's certainly where I would start.

[1SerieStud]

Originally Posted by StickMon

That's certainly where I would start.

Thanks a lot! I may have to have Amazon deliver a 6-pack at your door

[1SerieStud]

Originally Posted by StickMon

That's certainly where I would start.

One more question: I was able to locate the battery you recommended, as well as a similar one (also AGM) through Advance Autoparts. When looking on realoem, I noticed that there were multiple batteries available for this car, with different cold cranking amp values (570, 640, and 760). I have no idea what my car had OEM, but I've been reading online and noticed that some folks had cars that came equipped with the 570cca batteries, and some had the 760cca batteries. The Duralast has 730cca (30 less than OEM assuming my car came with the 760cca battery), and the Autocraft has 760cca just like the OEM choice. Both are rated at 70Ah, so this values aligns with the OEM battery, and both are H6 batteries; which one should I go with? From what you're telling me, you haven't had any issues with yours, but I'm just wondering if I should keep the cca number as close to OEM as possible. Granted, I live in FL, so my car may have been originally equipped with the 570cca battery since it's been a FL car all its life.

Also, the 640cca battery listed on realoem is an 80Ah batter instead 0f 70Ah. Any idea what cars came equipped with these?

Thanks!

[1SerieStud]

Thanks everyone for chiming in. I purchased the following battery today: AutoCraft Platinum AGM H6 battery. This is rated at 70Ah and 760 CCA (the same specs as the AGM OEM battery on realoem). As can be seen on the Advance Auto Parts site, they are running a 15% discount through March 22nd (though I was told that they are always running some type of special) so I purchased this puppy for $158.03 out the door and taxes inclusive - versus the original price of $171.99 before taxes. To put things into perspective, the dealer's OEM 570 CCA battery is going for $215, and with my BMW membership discount it only came down to $175 (still $3 more expensive than the superior 760 CCA battery that I just purchased). Size is perfect, the battery works like a charm, no transport mode hiccup…all I had to do was re-enter the date and time, and reprogram my windows for auto-up. Here's the link: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...rm=agm+battery

I was also considering the recommended Duralast counterpart (built by Autozone). This had a price of $161.99 and no incentives to my knowledge, even though the website is advertising 20% off any purchases of over $100. I decided on the AutoCraft because the Duralast is rated at 730 CCA, and I wanted to go with OEM numbers; this battery, however, has great reviews from forum members, as can be read a few posts above. Even though it is rated at 30 CCA less than the OEM AGM battery, it actually has 160 CCA more than the non-AGM OEM battery, which is rated at 570 CCA.

Can't go wrong with either one!

[1SerieStud]

Bringing this thread back. So it appears that replacing the battery took care of the random dash lights (I have not seen them again). However, the navi screen continues to randomly not want to close all the way and pops back open when I hit the close button. Any other ideas? I was thinking about removing the screen and cleaning/checking all buttons and connections. Anyone knows how easy/difficult it is to remove the screen from the dash?

Worst case scenario, where could I pick one up? Am I stuck with the stealership?

Thanks!

[StickMon]

It's probably binding.
I had mine out once, but I also had the vent and head unit out, which made it a little easier.
It's held by a few screws under a cover along the frame on the side closest to the windshield.
A replacement will be frightfully expensive.

Originally Posted by 1SerieStud

Hi folks!

So I just received a phone call, and my M Coupe ownership may have to end prematurely .

Never mind. GLWS and good luck with the Exige.
It was a toss up between buying my ///M, and an Elise.
I think there's still a Lotus in my future.

[Caddyshk]

2) Is DSC

[1SerieStud]

Originally Posted by Caddyshk

2) Is DSC

Though it can be, in my case it was not. It was the wrong battery being installed by prior owner. Wrong/bad battery can lead to all sorts of interesting electronic issues - there are multiple threads on this.

Battery replaced and issue has not repeated itself.