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      05-11-2013, 07:57 PM   #1
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3D Design gauge pod install

This being my first gauge install, I've tinkered with it for the past two days. It's been somewhat of a nightmare, in that every single piece has had multiple issues. Fast forward many hours, and I'm all ready to put the pod in... and it won't fit. Comparing the back of my pod to my old ash tray, I found them to be entirely different. I can see the pod possibly fitting under the trim pieces. I was told when I purchased the pod that removing the center console trim wasn't necessary. Any suggestions?
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      05-12-2013, 01:49 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches
This being my first gauge install, I've tinkered with it for the past two days. It's been somewhat of a nightmare, in that every single piece has had multiple issues. Fast forward many hours, and I'm all ready to put the pod in... and it won't fit. Comparing the back of my pod to my old ash tray, I found them to be entirely different. I can see the pod possibly fitting under the trim pieces. I was told when I purchased the pod that removing the center console trim wasn't necessary. Any suggestions?
I had to remove the while centre console to get this to fit perfectly with much tweaking !!
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      05-14-2013, 11:33 AM   #3
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I have the interior out of my car to do a color change so trial fitting the pod was easier.
I would prefer to mount the pod from the backside of the console as IMHO it looks better and more integrated. It will involve tweaking the little aluminum tabs supplied with the pod though.
A word of warning though......I went ahead and ordered the "Speedhut" gauges because of the customizability of them and find out that the gauge pod is designed to accept a style of gauge with 2 "threaded pins" protruding out the back of the gauge as opposed to the speedhut gauges having the threaded collet.
I did solve this issue by trimming off the "bridges" at the back of each gauge hole and securing the gauges with a push on tapered plastic pipe cap
.A dab of silicone will hold the cap from backing off and will still allow for easy removal if service is required.

One question ........where in the exhaust stream would I tap in the O2 sensor for the AFR gauge?

Thanks
Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
This being my first gauge install, I've tinkered with it for the past two days. It's been somewhat of a nightmare, in that every single piece has had multiple issues. Fast forward many hours, and I'm all ready to put the pod in... and it won't fit. Comparing the back of my pod to my old ash tray, I found them to be entirely different. I can see the pod possibly fitting under the trim pieces. I was told when I purchased the pod that removing the center console trim wasn't necessary. Any suggestions?

Last edited by Steeler; 12-27-2013 at 04:35 PM..
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      05-14-2013, 03:20 PM   #4
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The afr gauge sensor (which is an o2 sensor) is usually in a similar spot to the oxygen sensor in the header. Sometimes they will be installed in the one of pipes in the center section towards the front, rather than drilling into the header. Make sure the wire is long enough for your placement. Also, install pointing down into pipe so it does not accumulate moisture. Hope this helps.
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      05-14-2013, 03:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarton62 View Post
I have the interior out of my car to do a color change so trial fitting the pod was easier.
I would prefer to mount the pod from the backside of the console as IMHO it looks better and more integrated. It will involve tweaking the little aluminum tabs supplied with the pod though.
A word of warning though......I went ahead and ordered the "Speedhut" gauges because of the customizability of them and find out that the gauge pod is designed to accept a style of gauge with 2 "threaded pins" protruding out the back of the gauge as opposed to the speedhut gauges having the threaded collet.
I did solve this issue by trimming off the "bridges" at the back of each gauge hole and securing the gauges with a push on tapered plastic pipe cap
.A dab of silicone will hold the cap from backing off and will still allow for easy removal if service is required.

One question ........where in the exhaust stream would I tap in the O2 sensor for the AFR gauge?

Thanks
Dave
Thanks! I sent you a message on another forum about exactly that issue with the Speedhut gauges. I emailed Speedhut and was told that customers typically epoxy bolts to the back of the gauge, which is the route I'm considering.

For your O2 sensor, you need it prior to any catalytic converter. Cylinder 6 runs hottest and therefore richest, depending on your tune. I believe my Supersprint headers have O2 bungs for primary and secondary O2's, but I'll have to check. If this is the case, I'll relocate the secondary O2 sensors downstream anyway when I weld in cats, and I'll put the wideband O2 sensor in the secondary spot and cap off the other. Anyone know if this will work, or are the primary and secondary O2's different sizes?
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      05-20-2013, 10:17 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info,

I finally got under the car today and boy is it tight where I supposedly need to install this bung.
Has anyone added the AFR sensor bung from the top of the motor by removing the heat shields to gain access?
It seems to me with the cats being almost in the engine compartment you have to do it from the top.
A pic of someone's install position would help me immensely as I am lost on this one

Thanks
Dave.

Pokey it just hit me I hijacked your thread
My apologies
I have started a new thread for my questions

Last edited by Steeler; 05-20-2013 at 05:27 PM.. Reason: Hijack
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      05-20-2013, 11:57 AM   #7
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I don't see how you can do it from the bottom either. Have you tried removing the secondary air pump? It's held in place by three torx screws. Please ignore the pollen and sand in the engine bay... I clean it monthly, and it's a byproduct of the south and beach living.
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      05-20-2013, 03:31 PM   #8
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Pokey,
So you are suggesting tapping into #1 cylinder?
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      05-20-2013, 07:49 PM   #9
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It would be an option if no other exists, but take it at face value since I am new to this too. I would assume cylinder 6 would run richer than cylinder 1, because it runs hotter due to its location. More heat = more fuel needed to cool it. However, there are all kinds of other things BMW and VF may have done to make up for the extra heat besides dumping in more fuel to cool it. Maybe the timing is already slightly retarded (but would this throw off the balance of the engine?). I don't know.

The heat shield has a few screws you can take off, then bend the heat shield to suit your needs. The heat shield goes all the way around the headers towards the section 1, wrapping in such a way that I'm not sure removal is practical. I'm just a self-taught DIYer, so what do I know .
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      05-20-2013, 08:40 PM   #10
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Thanks Pokey,
You n me both self taught and always learning.
I have posted this on E46 forums also.

BTW I apologize for the hijack, it just dawned on me what I did.

Cheers
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