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      04-02-2017, 01:41 AM   #1
03Z
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Drives: 2003 Z4 3.0i Sport 6 MT
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If you're doing a clutch job...

and you've got a leaky oil pan gasket; boy do I have some tips for you. you don't need to drop the subframe, you don't have to drop the front suspension, and you don't have to cut the gasket

Been doing a lot of work on my car over the last couple days but the two majors were a clutch job and replacing my original oil pan gasket. I couldn't adequately support the engine without the trans to drop the subframe without blocking access to the oil pan so after a lot of hmming and scratching bits of oily gunk out of my hair while staring at the bottom of my engine this is what I did:

(This order of operations assumes you've already done everything necessary to get the trans out, this will not work if the trans is still installed.)

1. Unbolt the steering rack, don't disconnect from steering column, slide forward and out of the way.

2. Remove all oil pan bolts (You should get the rear main out at this point as well but these tips don't really apply to the rear main)

3. Unbolt driver's side engine mount and loosen passenger side a good bit (suggest unbolting from the top I did not and it would have made it easier)

3. Jack up the driver's side of the engine a fair bit. You're going to have to play a bit with jacks to get the height you need, I didn't measure. You need to be able to get the gasket past the oil pump sprocket. (Check your sprocket nut at this point, mine was tight as hell so I didn't mess with it)

4. Remove your old gasket, bend it as much as you need, cut it, whatever, it's garbage I'm sure.

5. Go fishing! You're not going to be able to pull the pan all the way out so stick your hand in there and pull anything you find out. I found a very tiny nut that I had lost years prior and many many brittle pieces of oil pan gasket.

6. Once you're satisfied that all debris is removed from the pan, clean all mating surfaces really well. The OEM sealant used by BMW is clear so really clean those surfaces to make sure you get it all.

7. Apply new sealant, you need to apply along the seams on the engine side and all corners (Both sides). Additionally, I put a layer all along the back on both sides where it meets the rear main housing.

8. Now the tricky part, you're going to use the trans tunnel to angle the gasket under the oil pipe. I had to slightly curve my gasket to get it under. Once you pass the pipe, slide it around the oil pump sprocket and you're golden.

9. Install the pan and rear main housing and torque.

10. Start the tedious reassembly work.

Hope this is useful to somebody. If you're doing a clutch job I would suggest doing the pan gasket and rear main anyways because I found this to be faster than estimated times to drop the subframe, and easier.
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