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      12-04-2009, 03:51 PM   #1
The HACK
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RacingBrake wheel studs

If you're swapping out rims on a regular basis, or are running spacers, a good wheel stud kit for the BMW is almost a must. Wish I would have installed these a while ago...But finally got around to getting a new set of studs for my MZ4 Coupe. Since these studs are an universal application for BMWs I figure I post it here as well.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328237

Installation is pretty simple, if you can take a set of wheels off, you can install these studs.

This is where I got them.

http://www.racingbrake.com/SearchRes...nsive_Search=Y
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      12-04-2009, 07:54 PM   #2
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Excellent price...
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      12-05-2009, 08:12 AM   #3
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Thanks for the post, solves a lot of headache.
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      12-05-2009, 12:48 PM   #4
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I've been running these on my Coupe for a bit, got the bullnose nacsar style ones from TC Kline with rounded ends, make putting wheels on and off a breeze and no issues with spacers. Defiantly a great upgrade for those who will be tracking the car or swapping wheels frequently.
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      12-05-2009, 02:43 PM   #5
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So essentially higher priced, lower quality studs then bimmerworld and turner? They advertise as "Heat treated 190,000psi Chromoly-steel, shot-peened, and double magnaflux inspected."
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      12-05-2009, 05:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
So essentially higher priced, lower quality studs then bimmerworld and turner? They advertise as "Heat treated 190,000psi Chromoly-steel, shot-peened, and double magnaflux inspected."
What'ch you talkin' 'bout, Willis?
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      12-05-2009, 05:26 PM   #7
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What'ch you talkin' 'bout, Willis?
I'm just saying, they cost more then bimmerworld and turner studs which advertise a higher tensile strength, shot peened, and magnaflux inspected, those last two are pretty significant.

Just saying ya know, don't see why anyone would by these when those are available, besides the hex head, which is only useful if you want to put the stud in without taking the wheel off.
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      12-08-2009, 04:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
So essentially higher priced, lower quality studs then bimmerworld and turner? They advertise as "Heat treated 190,000psi Chromoly-steel, shot-peened, and double magnaflux inspected."


That right there is essentially grade 10.9 standard per ISO-R898, all except for the 190,000psi tensile strength (grade 10.9 requires MINIMUM 150,000psi tensile strength and are heat treated steel alloy). Frankly I'd trust a bolt that is rated to a specification better than just a claim that it's "heat treated to XXX,XXXpsi yyy steel." And if BMW only uses a grade 8.8 bolt for your lugs, these are significantly stronger than what you're using on your car to begin with. In addition to that, manufacturers face serious criminal implications to sell stuff that are advertised as a certain ISO grade that are not CERTIFIED to meet those minimum standards. Just saying it's "chromoly-steel" means little if the actual grade of the chromoly-steel isn't listed. There are different properties in chromoly-steel that changes based on the percentage mixture. To achieve the ideal wheel fastener you have to have a certain degree of yield strength in addition to high tensile strength. Just because it's STRONG, doesn't mean it's not brittle, and in a wheel fastener application you must have some yield strength to provide proper clamping force at high torque rating (80ft-lbs or above) otherwise the bolt/stud will just snap.

Not saying the Turner studs aren't good. They sell nothing but good stuff. But to bash some product without at least some basic understanding or research behind it speaks volume as to which end you are start speaking out of.

Last edited by The HACK; 12-08-2009 at 04:51 PM..
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      12-08-2009, 04:40 PM   #9
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p.s.: The fine folks at RacingBrake has agreed to a group pricing of $169 per set plus free shipping if there are more than 5 interested. I'm taking names right now:

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

And believe you me, if TC Kline feels 4140 "chromoly-steel" is strong enough for their pro level stud applications, which is only rated to 120,000psi tensile strength...I can assure you 10.9 grade is MORE than strong enough.
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      12-08-2009, 08:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
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That right there is essentially grade 10.9 standard per ISO-R898, all except for the 190,000psi tensile strength (grade 10.9 requires MINIMUM 150,000psi tensile strength and are heat treated steel alloy). Frankly I'd trust a bolt that is rated to a specification better than just a claim that it's "heat treated to XXX,XXXpsi yyy steel." And if BMW only uses a grade 8.8 bolt for your lugs, these are significantly stronger than what you're using on your car to begin with. In addition to that, manufacturers face serious criminal implications to sell stuff that are advertised as a certain ISO grade that are not CERTIFIED to meet those minimum standards. Just saying it's "chromoly-steel" means little if the actual grade of the chromoly-steel isn't listed. There are different properties in chromoly-steel that changes based on the percentage mixture. To achieve the ideal wheel fastener you have to have a certain degree of yield strength in addition to high tensile strength. Just because it's STRONG, doesn't mean it's not brittle, and in a wheel fastener application you must have some yield strength to provide proper clamping force at high torque rating (80ft-lbs or above) otherwise the bolt/stud will just snap.

Not saying the Turner studs aren't good. They sell nothing but good stuff. But to bash some product without at least some basic understanding or research behind it speaks volume as to which end you are start speaking out of.
Riiighhhtt... You are taking my comment personal apparently... Chromoly steel really had nothing to do with it, like I said it's that they are shot peened and magniflux inspected that I feel give them the edge (like I said).

I'm sure they are plenty strong, and you're obvioiusly biased based on the "huge discount" you recieved.


Why pay more for less? Personally I would rather have something made by a very well known and trusted company like ARP (turner studs) for less then a not well known company.
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      12-09-2009, 12:25 PM   #11
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Got mine at (EAS) Europeanautosource.com ....with the blacked out bolts

http://www.europeanautosource.com/pr...oducts_id=2377
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      12-09-2009, 12:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laidback View Post
Got mine at (EAS) Europeanautosource.com ....with the blacked out bolts

http://www.europeanautosource.com/pr...oducts_id=2377
+1

It's always good to go with a safe stud kit that you know will be strong in the long run. That's why the Macht Schnell Competition fasteners are hardened and tempered to the strength class of 10.9 or 10 according to DIN/ISO standard 898.



We've run this specific kit on several cars including Laidback's beautiful Z4M Coupe. If anybody has any questions on this specific kit, just shoot me over a PM
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      12-09-2009, 02:27 PM   #13
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I've used the Turner stud/nuts on both my Z4M and my 330Ci. They have been flawless for nearly 5 years of use with about 3 of those years getting frequent track visits. I inspect them every once in a while to make sure everything looks fine but when installed correctly these are a simple and really great modification to do. Especially if you run spacers and/or change wheels.

It is interesting that the Racing Brake studs seem to be installed and removed by a socket and not an allen key. The allen key design allows for a more narrow/tappered head which makes threading the nuts a lot easier (and less prone to cross-threading) but it also makes uninstalling a stud a royal pain. I'd advise that people getting the Racing Brake studs use plenty of anti-seize when threading the nuts and move slowly to prevent cross-threading.
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      12-09-2009, 02:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCz04Bimmer View Post
I've used the Turner stud/nuts on both my Z4M and my 330Ci. They have been flawless for nearly 5 years of use with about 3 of those years getting frequent track visits. I inspect them every once in a while to make sure everything looks fine but when installed correctly these are a simple and really great modification to do. Especially if you run spacers and/or change wheels.

It is interesting that the Racing Brake studs seem to be installed and removed by a socket and not an allen key. The allen key design allows for a more narrow/tappered head which makes threading the nuts a lot easier (and less prone to cross-threading) but it also makes uninstalling a stud a royal pain. I'd advise that people getting the Racing Brake studs use plenty of anti-seize when threading the nuts and move slowly to prevent cross-threading.
The cheaper Chinese brands on the market (unbranded or some shops self-branding) seem to omit the hex key, the MS studs definitely use an hex key and include red loctite to secure the studs within the hub.

The Turner studs are good quality as well.
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      12-09-2009, 05:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
Riiighhhtt... You are taking my comment personal apparently... Chromoly steel really had nothing to do with it, like I said it's that they are shot peened and magniflux inspected that I feel give them the edge (like I said).

I'm sure they are plenty strong, and you're obvioiusly biased based on the "huge discount" you recieved.


Why pay more for less? Personally I would rather have something made by a very well known and trusted company like ARP (turner studs) for less then a not well known company.
Nope, just can't stand people who talk out of their rear ends. You had mentioned "lower quality" when there's absolutely no proof to your claim as to the actual quality one way or another. Again, Grade 10.9 is a pretty darn high standard to go by...Are you now going to bash a slew of other stud kits sold by various vendors such as TC Kline and Vorschlag as well?

Making baseless claims is what I'm against. Yes I am biased, since the owner/operator of RB happens to be a friend of mine...And when someone makes baseless attacks on their products, I feel justified in standing up for his stuff. Whether or not I get a hefty discount is irrelevant, I would have been happy to pimp the fine product even if I was paying full retail.

And you continue to claim that these RB studs are "less" than what you would get for other studs...How would these studs be a "less" product? In terms of quality? Strength? I've already debunked that. And how are you paying MORE for these RB studs and nuts, when for a whole set of stud and nut combination you would pay $169 (shipping included), where the Turner stud and nut would cost you $184.20 PLUS shipping?

Really, if making baseless claims is what you're doing, it's a heck of a job. Seriously, if you like Turner studs, great. I'm a fan of Turner's as well, and their stud and nut kit is also top notch and if I'm not a RB customer, I would certainly give their kit, along with Vorschlag and TCK kits a serious look. But I'm not going to sit here idle or make baseless claims or talk out of @ss about other people's products like you are, fan or not.
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      12-10-2009, 05:38 AM   #16
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Hence i didnt hesitate to get Macht Schnell

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
The cheaper Chinese brands on the market (unbranded or some shops self-branding) seem to omit the hex key, the MS studs definitely use an hex key and include red loctite to secure the studs within the hub.
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      01-25-2010, 02:46 PM   #17
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Let's make it easy...

http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_Wheel_...p/80mm-car.htm

Enter coupon code "80MM-0110" on check-out to receive the "group buy" pricing of $169 with free ground shipping to continental United States.. Offer good until end of February. Pricing is good for 20 studs and 20 matching nuts.

They've made the installation instruction even simpler. No need to use thread-lock, just tighten the studs with 8mm socket to 60 ft-lbs and it should hold. Next time I work on my brakes I will likely remove the studs and clean out the threads and re-install per their instructions. We'll see if the 8mm head on the studs will make removal easier too.
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