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      12-23-2011, 12:51 AM   #23
Aries326
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Thanks for the clarification! I've been reading up on stuff on autogeeks and last night, I watched a bunch of their videos. My car is still in pretty good shape. The surface is very smooth after I used claybar on it last year, sealed and waxed. There's barely any surface scratches or swirls on it but I'll try polishing this summer. Someone else here suggested that I polish every time I claybar since using claybar will cause some light scratches. Do you agree with that statement?

Anyway, my brother has an old Miata that can use some TLC. I've got a list of stuff I want to buy and try removing the swirls from his Miata.

You mention that detailing is a bad addiction to get into. At this point, your work is fantastic. Is this a business for you too or just an addiction. I think I'm headed down that "addiction". I find it amazing how clean and pristine people keep their cars.
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      12-23-2011, 07:53 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Aries326 View Post
Thanks for the clarification! I've been reading up on stuff on autogeeks and last night, I watched a bunch of their videos. My car is still in pretty good shape. The surface is very smooth after I used claybar on it last year, sealed and waxed. There's barely any surface scratches or swirls on it but I'll try polishing this summer. Someone else here suggested that I polish every time I claybar since using claybar will cause some light scratches. Do you agree with that statement?

Anyway, my brother has an old Miata that can use some TLC. I've got a list of stuff I want to buy and try removing the swirls from his Miata.

You mention that detailing is a bad addiction to get into. At this point, your work is fantastic. Is this a business for you too or just an addiction. I think I'm headed down that "addiction". I find it amazing how clean and pristine people keep their cars.
Yes, you need to polish everytime you clay bar. The reason is, is that you are picking up particles that were embedded in your paint and you're rubbing it all over your car. You will marr and hologram the paint (Which is what happened to mine).

It's a very bad addiction. I've spent alot of money

I did do a couple cars on the side and made some nice coin, but now I just do family cars. I don't have time for making side money now with college, internships...etc.

The best thing is when someone you don't know walks up and talks about your car. When I had my E46...people commented on how it looked like it just rolled out of showroom, I'm a sucker for that stuff
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      12-23-2011, 01:18 PM   #25
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I have a tough time using M105. That stuff dries up waaaay to quickly. How many passes are you able to get with the M105 before it starts drying up? I was told unless your car is heavily oxidized that you would not need to use compounding. For scratches just use polishes?
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      12-23-2011, 02:58 PM   #26
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I have a tough time using M105. That stuff dries up waaaay to quickly. How many passes are you able to get with the M105 before it starts drying up? I was told unless your car is heavily oxidized that you would not need to use compounding. For scratches just use polishes?
4-5 Passes before it is worked in. Research the Kevin Brown Method, good way to extend flash passes. You live in a hot place as well, weather places a good role on how polishes act.

M105/205 is a normally used throughout. Heavy Scratches is almost as bad as oxidation. I've never worked on an oxidized car. If I was to use SIP and 106FF, it probably wouldn't of been enough.
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      12-23-2011, 06:04 PM   #27
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If you want to extend the life of your polish spray a little bit of quick detailer on the pad it keeps it from drying out so bad. In the process of polishing my sisters freshly painted miata tonight. The guy didnt get anywhere close to getting all the wetsanding marks out.
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      12-23-2011, 11:39 PM   #28
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Post pics of the Miata. I'd like to see some before and afters.

Too bad I have to wait until summer to do this stuff. I imagine it's too cold now up North to detail a car in an unheated garage. In the mean time, I'll just stock up on knowledge.
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      12-24-2011, 11:41 AM   #29
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Aries326-
You also need to get yourself a good orbital polisher. The home depot variety are trash. The OP uses a mikata 9227c and I use the Flex XC 3401 VRG. The porter cable 7424 XP is also another choice, yet not as powerful.
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      12-25-2011, 08:26 AM   #30
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Havent had time to finish the Miata yet due to Christmas activities. Ill be back on it sometime this week. I would recommend getting the Flex. I have a PC 7424XP and while I like it i feel its underpowered. Guess its a good thing I have a PC rotary too (wouldnt recommend this for a beginner)
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      12-25-2011, 09:26 AM   #31
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I'm not too big of a fan of the Flex because of the price. You can get a PC and Rotary down the road for CHEAPER. More options IMO and better correction ability.
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      12-29-2011, 06:18 PM   #32
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I love my FLEX!
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      12-29-2011, 07:09 PM   #33
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I'm planning on getting a Porter Cable from Autogeeks. I'm just not sure which package to get.

http://www.autogeek.net/po.html
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      01-02-2012, 01:36 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jumbosock View Post
Aries326-
You also need to get yourself a good orbital polisher. The home depot variety are trash. The OP uses a mikata 9227c and I use the Flex XC 3401 VRG. The porter cable 7424 XP is also another choice, yet not as powerful.
FYI. Home Depot carries the Porter Cable DA polisher

Last edited by mshanno1; 01-02-2012 at 01:54 PM..
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