May finally install My DKF section one this winter

[mousitch]

Any new news on fitment? Im to damn lazy to look up posts and I havent been on here forever.

[MZHammer]

Wow, I wasn't sure you were still around! Sorry I can't help with your question. Glad to find out you still have the car.

[pokeybritches]

Only issue I know of is one of the transmission mounts may require trimming, at least my aftermarket mounts did. It's important to do things in order:

1. Loosely install the s-pipe portion to the headers. Do not tighten yet.

2. Install the attachment with the v-band clamp. Do not tighten yet. You should be able to rotate the attachment. This will help with aligning the triangle flange holes.

3. Loosely install the bolts for the triangle flange.

4. Tighten the v-band clamp when you get the attachment where you want it.

5. Tighten the triangle flange bolts.

6. Tighten the header to s-pipe bolts. You do this last because this is where the setup has the most slack to play with.

7. Check for a tight seal. Have someone turn on the car while you feel down the s-pipe, starting near the headers and working your way back. You start near the front to avoid burns, because it will heat up quickest. You should have a good 5-10 seconds to feel around before it starts to get hot.

[Beedub]

mine fitted perfectly ( as good as stock) and has never set off the CEL on my s/c z4. Im using the 100 CELL cats.

[David70]

Originally Posted by Beedub

mine fitted perfectly ( as good as stock) and has never set off the CEL on my s/c z4. Im using the 100 CELL cats.

I thought you would have a tune with the S/C and doesn't virtually every tune remove the CEL issue?

[mousitch]

Yep still got her. Thanks for the install info

[inTgr8r]

Since we're on about DKF install. I have some update info.

1. I have been running a 300 cell CAT without CEL for some time now, I didn't post previously because these are a prototype CAT & not the 300 cell from the GB.
None the less it demonstrates that 300 cell is enough to clear codes.

2. I installed the GB 300 cell CATs on Caddy's car last week.
He was running resonators up until now.
After the install, I didnt clear codes. If CATs are working the car should clear the CEL itself.
I just had a call from Caddy; after 155 miles the CEL has cleared, so the GB 300 cell CATs are definitely working.
Caddy's car has no tune.


As most of you can imagine, I have had the exhaust system on & off my car more times than I care to count.
Needless to say I developed a system.

I find that taking the entire system off the car is by far the best way to do it & ensure that there are no leaks.

One thing that I found on my and Caddy's system is that if you don't get the racing flanges right, there will be minor leaking, that you cannot feel by hand after the install.
Minor carbon tracking (leak) was observed at the racing flange on my & Caddys car when taking the system apart.

a) taking the system off the car; if you have a helper, you don't need to remove the mufflers.
just drop the center mount, undo the header flanges & slide the whole system out.
Use some small ropes at the back end to hold it up while sliding the header connection apart.
When doing it on my own, I take the mufflers off.
- once on the shop floor; dismantle section 1 & 2

b) assemble the DKF system on the shop floor;
- !!! check the 3 bolt flange on the 300 cell CAT!!!
on Caddy's I noticed that the weld for the flange protruded slightly above the flange face.
It's minor but would likely lead to leaks.
Its a simple fix with a flat file to take the weld down flush.

- stand the CATs vertically on a flat surface, with the 3bolt flange .
stand them together and check the racing flanges to see if they are flat & true.
They may not be dead level but that's OK, just mark the high & low side for now.

- mate the CAT up to the S-pipe one at a time holding it in roughly he correct orientation (O2 bung tipped to the center)
Check each of them on both sides of the S-pipe, you might find that the fit is better on one side vs the other. Then mark them right and left.

- assembly on the shop floor; you will be using the shop floor to set things up square.
*section 2 x-pipe should be flat on the floor, face up just as it sits in the car.
* place a 2x4 (or similar) across the back of the xpipe near the muffler joint.
this elevates the system so the the back of X pipe is level with respect to the floor.
* next assemble the CATs 3 bolt flange (that you marked previously) to the Xpipe. New gaskets are a good idea.
Snug them up firm so that they stay in place. (not to final tightness)

* shim up the CATs a bit so that you can slide the S-pipe up to the racing flange connection.
make sure the S-pipe bend is oriented the same as on the car.
You will likely find that the flanges dont mate up perfectly.
The CATs will be spaced too far apart or too close together.
If too close; simply drive a wedge in between. they aren't hard to move.
If too far apart you need to squeeze them together. (big clamp etc)

* once you get the flanges to sit together, check around for gaps.
On most, I found they were pretty good; on my prototype set I had to shape the flange a bit to get it more flush.
All I did was tap the low spot with a hammer moving around the rim until it was pretty good.

* after the dry fit of the racing flange you can proceed with final assembly.
I used a light coating of HiTemp silicone gasket maker on the racing flange face. (wipe with alcohol 1st)

* when bolting up the racing flanges, check the front end of the S-pipe (header end)
both pipe ends should be sitting level on the floor.
[this ensures that back & front are on the same horizontal plane]
Install the racing clamps with bolt ends to the floor on a slight angle (so they don't hang below pipe when on the car)

* with everything assembled on the floor, final tighten all connections.
For the racing flanges, give them a good rap with a hammer in a few places to help seat them down.

*When assembling on the car I use a couple of small ropes to hold the back of the Xpipe up while I slide the header connection together.


While this method sounds a little tedious, I assure you it is the best way to ensure no leaks at the flanges.
I also find it much easier working in the open on the shop floor than getting up to that 3 bolt flange.