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01-09-2015, 10:31 PM | #23 | |
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Sorry, but it wouldn't have saved you a thing on this install. You still have to take the whole top storage compartment out to remove the OEM mounts.......
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01-10-2015, 05:45 AM | #24 | |
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Almost every adjustable shock uses this system. So with the top closed you can reach that behind the protection bars and stick a small allen key in there and dial away But I think koni has some kind of rectangular tap sitting on top of the shock? (so no allen key). I think making an extended key (with the rectangular slot) and going in from the top would be easier than removing the shock over&over every time you go to the track.... I've seen people making different special keys for the koni's on other cars where acces was bad (sometimes only from the side etc), so that happens or you can buy them For the new KW V3 (clubsport etc) they have a dial on the underside, so you have to jack up the rear slightly to get your hand in the wheelwell to dial in a different rebound. For the roadster maybe an improvement but probably not for the coupe as access is obviously easier.
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Last edited by GuidoK; 01-10-2015 at 05:56 AM.. |
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01-10-2015, 08:52 AM | #25 | |
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01-10-2015, 09:02 AM | #26 | |
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And also for the yellow koni adjustables you can get extensions (see my previous post) so that you can adjust the shock from above instead of removing the wheel and shock.
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01-10-2015, 10:14 AM | #27 | |
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01-10-2015, 11:07 AM | #28 |
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aha I see so the rear is different to the front. What an utter stupid system. That hàs to be dutch....
For (for example)the honda s2000 they have the regular adjustment at the rear (so with the knob).... seems to be car dependent. But wouldn't it be easier to just remove the lower bolt and compress it from below? Then it's just the one bolt that is easlily accesible with an impact gun (or spanner/ratchet) once you have the wheel off. You might even be able to do that without getting the wheels off, getting under the car (jack the car up at the central reaction bar point, place 2 axle stands at the normal back jack pads)
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Last edited by GuidoK; 01-10-2015 at 11:13 AM.. |
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01-10-2015, 01:06 PM | #29 | |
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01-10-2015, 03:11 PM | #30 |
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Magnets work great for fishing blind holes.
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05-05-2015, 09:49 PM | #31 |
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I had Rogue RSMs in my M3 and I'll be getting them for the Z. Should I be replacing anything up front, or just re-using all stock pieces?
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05-06-2015, 12:55 PM | #32 |
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I replaced everything except the springs.
Probably depends on your environment. The average humidity here is <10% with high Ozone. I don't trust anything made of rubber that's more than 5 years old.
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06-03-2015, 08:14 PM | #33 |
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I'm installing H&R coilovers. Did anyone just re-use the stock mounts? I don't see myself removing the shocks for a long time, if ever.
Also, did you guys re-use all bolts, nuts, etc.? Or buy new ones?
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06-04-2015, 02:58 PM | #34 |
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I used these instructions to dissemble the trunk to get to the RSM. Took me about 45 min, taking my time. http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewto...p?f=24&t=51205
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06-04-2015, 03:51 PM | #35 |
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If you're installing true coil overs then you really need to consider the Rogue mounts. The rear coil springs are the load bearing component currently and when you switch to a coil over you remove the spring and the new coil/shock (the coil over) now becomes the load bearing component and the shock mount area of the body is now bearing the car's weight and the associated forces. In addition to allowing you to remove the rear shocks without having to disassemble the top storage compartment, the Rogue mounts provide reinforcement to the shock mount area of the car body. If you're installing a "coil over" kit where the front struts get replaced with coil overs and the rear springs get replaced with a different spring and a height adjuster, then you can probably get away with the stock mounts.
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06-04-2015, 05:43 PM | #36 | |
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I don't trust anything made of rubber/neoprene/etc that's more than 5 years old, and you don't want to reuse nylock nuts.
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