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06-04-2013, 08:44 PM | #1 |
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Where's the track speed to be gained in this car?
Hi Track Junkies,
Just had my first track day with my Z4M. I've been going to the track for HPDE's days since 2000 with a variety of modified street cars. Before the Z4M coupe drove a 2004 BMW M3, square setup, Hankook RS3's PSS9, PF06 brake pads. Pretty much the "standard what you do be faster at the track" stuff. I was making some gains(cutting time) but was stuck at a pretty consistent lap time. Anyways, the Z4M has HR springs, Dunlop Direzza II's and the Evolve software and that's about it. It needs pads and I know that. So, what do I need and should I do with my money. Couple of things, it needs to stay streetable and force induction is very very low on the my personal list. So give your ideas and suggestion! I dream of running down the slower Z06's. Thanks! Last edited by Shaung; 06-04-2013 at 08:55 PM.. |
06-04-2013, 09:21 PM | #2 |
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Take some weight out and perfectly dial in the suspension. All poly in the suspension, better differential. Upgrade oil pump. larger oil cooler.
I don't know much about PIR, but you can usually check to see what the track record is for the class. In NASA, it is a B car. If I raced the z4, I would find out the complete specs of what tc Kline did to there cars to make them fast. I believe the e46 m3 and z4m are completely different cars, so it is important to treat it as so. What you do to one doesn't necessarily apply, unless we are just talking about the s54. Based on your last statement, you will need to strip the car to get down to 2800lbs. |
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06-04-2013, 10:03 PM | #3 |
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Times, I could 1:35's all day long in the M3. I had a 1:33 as a PR. On last HPDE day I recorded some times for some slower Z06's and they were in the 1:31 up to 1:34'
s. I know a great driver who in his E36 M3's does 1:26's! The car just about a race car though, gutted, caged etc. Monday at PIR, the loving wife did a 1:37 in the Z4M. In the M3 she did a PR of 1:34. At the same even I ran somewhere in the 1:40. Yes, I know she was faster. I was just getting a feel for the car. The stock pads don't give much confidence. My head was focused on grip but never really thought about weight. Where is the big weight in this car? Is there a 300 pound lead weight hidden somewhere? It would make is so much easier! In all seriousness thanks for any tips. |
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06-04-2013, 10:11 PM | #4 | |
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Sorry you got beat by the misses |
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06-04-2013, 10:27 PM | #7 |
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She's fast, like I think she should be a race car driver fast. I can still out bench her no problem! lol. I'm lucky to have a her as a track buddy, and since we share a car we always know if it's the driver or the car.
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06-05-2013, 12:02 AM | #8 |
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Race seats, 40 lbs saved per side.
Trunk and hatch trim (remove) 28 lbs. Stock wheel 25 F 26 R. Apex ARC-8 ~18 lbs. Exhaust can shave 5-10 lbs. A/C - no idea. Shared hobby - priceless. (My wife and I have the same interest too.) |
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06-05-2013, 12:45 AM | #9 |
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Brakes.
Take a look at this video. Listen from 0:41 to 0:51. If you've found your driving has plateaued, one area you can make up the biggest ground in terms of improvement is in brakes. Be it better equipment or better technique, or learning to adjust your braking specifically to maximize the amount of braking done in the least amount of time. And I agree with Mr. Kendall. Once you get up to about 9/10th in speed, the last 10th is all braking. It's the one thing that separates the men from boys in high performance driving. And especially on this chassis, as compared to the E46 M3, there's more power per pound of mass, with the right equipment under your foot, you should be able to brake later, brake harder, but do it in a much shorter span of time while maintaining higher speed through the turns and also better acceleration out of turns. But all that advantage is wasted if you're approaching a turn at the same speed or maybe even slower because you had to brake longer since the E46 actually has better body control due to the longer chassis.
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06-05-2013, 11:38 AM | #11 |
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You can do a lot with upgrading pads etc on the OE
But, I absolutely love my Stoptechs. Never fade, lap after lap. Just as good on the way home as they were getting there. The feel is FAR superior.
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06-05-2013, 11:48 AM | #12 |
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Depends. What are your goals with this car, how do you intend to use it, and how much disposable income do you have?
You can accomplish A LOT on this car with simple proven track pads like Performance Friction PF-01 or later pads, Hawk DTC-60 or better pads, or Cobalt XR-3 or better pads, which all have available fitment for the MZ4 Coupe and can be had between $400-600 dollars. I'd say 80% of your brake improvement will come from this alone. For a set of BBKs to really impact your lap times beyond what simple track pads on OE sliding calipers can do, you'll also have to spend more than the typical $4,000 range because 1) you'll have to upgrade your wheels, most likely, since most OE wheels and in fact quite a few of the aftermarket wheels will not clear a larger caliper, much less a larger caliper on a bigger rotor and 2) you'll likely have to REALLY upgrade the tires. The reason being, if you want to brake later, brake harder, and brake for a shorter span of time while maintaining higher cornering speed, you'll ultimately NEED the grip and heat capacity of a true R-Comp like Nitto NT-01, Toyo RA-1/R888/RR, Maxxis RC-1, Hoosier A6/R6...etc. Those will ultimately allow you to brake when you want, where you want, and give you almost unlimited control over your brakes. Already you're looking at probably at least $6,000-8,000 worth, easily 10X more than pads alone for an additional 20% improvement. But if your goal is to find the last ounce of speed on this car, is a BBK worth it? I'd say yes. It'll give you the last bit of brake pedal modulation control, excellent feel and know exactly what your brakes are doing, and practically inexhaustible amount of cooling so that you know for sure you can haul down from 120mph to 40mph repeatedly, 2-3 times a minute. I would say, if you have that sort of budget, first throw some of it my way. In terms of return on investment, I would seriously consider a new set of PFC-06 or 08 first. Then I would consider a set of better dampers. Back in 2006 I had the Rookie of the Year that year (well he wasn't rookie of the year yet) in Speed World Challenge drive my car at a local track, and immediately he identified the dampers as the biggest weak-point in the suspension and I concur. Then if you're still chasing that last 10th of a second, I'd look into BBK.
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06-05-2013, 11:58 AM | #13 | |
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06-05-2013, 12:23 PM | #14 | |
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Technically, you can buy E36 front struts, and have them altered so the piston travel is shorter, or just run plain jane struts as long as you plan on taking them off and rebuilding every few years (thus high-end struts).
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06-05-2013, 12:38 PM | #15 |
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I'm running OEM M3(219) wheels that will clear a brake kit. I've run PF06 pads (on stock brakes) for 2 seasons and loved them. No fade, hard bite but a pain to keep swapping back and forth and killed my rotors. I'm running the Dunlop Direzza II tire right now and after one HPDE would have to say they are an awesome tire. Last year I ran the Hankook RS3, also a great tire for the price although they could get a bit dicey if cold.
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06-05-2013, 01:03 PM | #16 | ||
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In my years of racing I don't know ONE person who runs BBK's, unless they have a heavily modified engine (i.e. 500 hp e46 m3). Everyone runs better brake pads for the track which will make the largest gain by far. The money saved can buy a lot to: -change RWHP/ TQ (larger pullys, light weight clutch and flywheel) -Os Geiken differential with a 4.10 -lighten the car (faster around corners and brakes better) -suspension, wheels, and tires -track pads |
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06-05-2013, 06:18 PM | #17 | |
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+ this battery hold-down which can be drilled into your existing battery tray http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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06-05-2013, 11:58 PM | #18 |
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If you have 5-6 grand laying around and you feel you're actually getting everything out of the car as is, then jump on a BBK. I'll be missing this track season due to a deployment, but I've found a few boards and threads that I'll be lurking throughout the season and see what pads work best in all different conditions.
Currently I'm looking at Racing Brake's rotors and some pads. I'd also reccomend shoring up the stock suspension and upgrading what parts you see fit as the need to upgrade comes. At least, that's what works for me anyway, ballin on a budget. Can't drop tons of money on a whim, so I have to consciously analyze where I can get more out of the car cheapest first. Good tires cannot understated, since that's what actually touches the road. Obviously.
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