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08-15-2022, 09:33 AM | #23 |
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After taking it apart for the fourth time, still same codes and still can't drive properly. Really at my wits end after spending 3 months trying to chase this issue down. Attempt#1: Rough idle, barely started, flashing CEL, didn't go for a drive and just go back into the garage to work on it, first time and last time I saw P0016 code Attempt#2: Redone the installation and set the spline gear properly this time at the front, replaced the intake cam sensor, went for a drive and P0017 came up, but probably the best i got it to run Attempt#3: Redone the assembly again, watched the youtube video on the 'sweet spot' and redone the exhaust side, i also replaced the exhaust cam sensor to no effect so i went back to stock, P0017 remains and now joined with P1424. Symptom now include bad cold start (where it'd start and rpm would drop to stall speed and remain unstable until the car's fully warmed up) Attempt #4: I followed Kapt's post here: https://www.zpost.com/forums/showpos...59&postcount=2 to the tee, where I had set the splines at the front following his pictures, TIGHTENED 2 bolts on each hub, fasten the pistons on, push the VANOS to the motor to the studs on the VANOS, then LOOSEN the 2 bolts on the hubs, and push the VANOS onto the block and tighten. I then re-tighten the hubs again on 2 points, remove the VANOS again and re-torque all the hub bolts, then just reinstall the VANOs. Using the OEM bridge, I had re-time every single time, only notice my timing changed every single time I re open the valve cover, same codes, P0017, P1424 again Same cold start issues, now joined with odd throttle behaviour beside unstable idle that seems to all go away the moment the car is warmed up where it just seems to magically disappear Car does feel like its on full power, at no point did i feel loss of power once it is fully warmed up Can anyone think of anything else that may have caused this? At this point only thing I have not tried to suspect is the 'rebuilt' Besian Solenoid Only thing I did notice, was from the first time I taken the VANOS apart before any work even took place, I notice my exhaust spline was not at the front like all the instructions I have seen. This is with the motor at TDC., my exhaust spline was around middle-fairly deep in the exhaust hub. Really not sure if this makes any difference, but this contradicts every instruction I have read up on.
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08-15-2022, 11:39 AM | #24 |
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I don-t think your issue is timing, you have a faulty solenoid more than likely. My advice is to buy it new, they are like 800USD new, it has the valve body and solenoid box.
What you noted is the result of not putting the engine at TDC and removing the solenoid pack to allow for oil to be drained out of the system so you can sping the cams anti-clockwise. I have made that mistake twice myself, if you don-t rotate the cams backward, the splines are not moved forward, for disassembly this does not matter if you are not removing the hubs as the timing does not move, it will just make removal an absolute PITA, to the point to have to loosen the hubs and which point you lose timing. I hope this makes sense. |
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08-15-2022, 12:15 PM | #25 |
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If you followed the sweet spot, then I think maupineda might have a good point. You may need an autologic to scan the vanos adaptations to see if the solenoid might be causing the issue.
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09-23-2022, 12:15 AM | #26 |
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VC removal #5, re-assembled the VANOS 4 times now, and i am still stuck wondering about my life choices at 1 AM...
I have done the Kapt's procedure 4 times now... Each time when I re-assembled back everything after torquing down all 6 hub bolts by removing the VANOS again, timing appears perfect. I rotate the motor 10 times, exhaust stays in time, intake is barely in time Rotate another 10 times, exhaust stays in time, intake is out.... this has happened twice now. I have now removed the VANOs 3 times this week, everytime, i would re-tighten the VANOS back on the motor, timing appears perfect, but rotate the motor a few times, and it'd be out of time again I replaced the Solenoid, to no avail, same issues
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09-23-2022, 11:31 AM | #27 |
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hmm, something is definitely off. You can confirm that the spline gears and pistons are in the correct side? The intake and exhaust spline gears and pistons are different lengths. Can you also confirm the vanos pistons are in full retard once the vanos is installed and bolted to the head? You can remove the covers to confirm. Assuming you have the procedure done right, there may be a component that isn't in the right spot. Just throwing ideas out. I'd hate to be in this position. I've done a couple of cars now and haven't had this issue luckily.
Last edited by ctdriver86; 09-23-2022 at 11:39 AM.. |
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