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01-29-2014, 09:49 PM | #23 | |
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Link to thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...to-Can-signals I don't KNOW how close the E46 and E90 are in their CANBus system, but I would THINK they are similar enough that these guys would be able to help you sort something out. I have a basic iron block LM7 (what I'm using as my mockup right now) that I plan to keep and rebuild. For my wife's 325i, the extra 100lbs of iron block doesn't bother me and for $1000 parts and labor I can have a brand new motor that will take butt loads of PSI if I want it. I think a 750rwhp 325i (that still gets 35-40mpg) would be a pretty nice "wife's car"....
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01-30-2014, 07:23 PM | #24 | |
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Thanks. I need to read more on the wiring and electronics for sure. Not sure if you have seen this thread on LS1tech, but a guy with an E46 used both ecu's in tandem and just made the BMW dme think the car was running. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...l#post17480764 You should definitely start a thread on ls1tech for your build in the hybrid section. I have seen Z3s before with LS engines but never a z4. |
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01-30-2014, 07:36 PM | #25 | |
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Lots of Z3s, but for the most part Z4s are still too expensive. I just lucked into my Z4 cheap enough.
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02-04-2014, 11:34 PM | #26 |
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A new member in the e90post forum posted from Australia that he installed an LS into his e90 with minor fitting, both ecu's in tandem and everything but the speedo worked. I hope he reveals more. His name is gassdman.
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02-05-2014, 09:04 AM | #27 |
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I wonder why the speedo didn't work. In the E46s, the speedo is directly driven by the right rear (could be rear left...I think it's right) wheel sensor. So unless he removed the wheel sensors, I would expect the speedo to work.
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02-05-2014, 06:54 PM | #28 |
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I am quite certain the E90 is the exact same. Not sure which wheel though. I thought it would have been doable. He made one post though and I have a feeling it is going to be one of those one post and disappear situations.
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02-05-2014, 11:10 PM | #29 |
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I hate it when that happens. While somewhat understandable (I say I'm going to post and then get busy), it results in a lot of good information no getting circulated. I also hate it when people post pictures from their photobucket and then remove them. 5 years later someone tries to follow the DIY thread but does not have any pictures to go by.
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02-12-2014, 08:48 PM | #30 | |
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05-19-2014, 09:10 PM | #31 |
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The motor is mounted (Motor plates are in, welded, and I have test fit all of the accessories). I have started laying out the wiring to make the wiring harness, but don't want to spend $500 on injectors yet so I'm focusing on building rather than buying right now. I'm currently in the process of building tubular front lower controls arms (driver's side is done, need to build the passenger's) so I can get the 1-7/8" headers finished. Progress has been slowed, but I will perverse! lol
Front plate: Mid plate: Overall: Front control arm bushing replacement (3/4" rod end threaded into milled steel block): Porsche 996 calipers, CSL rotors, and tubular control arm: Front tubular control arm:
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12-22-2015, 07:14 PM | #33 |
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The 427 roadster project still exist, I've just been both incredibly busy (moving, school, and family), as well as having had to divert Z4 money to house projects and 325ci buildup.
With regards to the 325ci buildup, I purchased the car a year ago knowing it needed a lot of work (it drove well but was worn out... lack of care by the previous owner). The entire suspension has been gone through now and it now drives and handles amazingly. Then about 6 months ago my wife and I decided we needed to replace our old Tahoe (need an SUV to transport the family) but it wasn't worth much on the blue book. I was able to swing a deal to have my engine builder, he built me an iron block 5.7 with a turbocharger as an even swap for the Tahoe (value of the engine far exceeds the blue book value of the Tahoe). So now the 325ci has moved up to the immediate swap candidate (since it's my daily) and is getting all of the attention/prep work. Once I'm finished with the 325ci swap and things settle down, I'll return to the roadster project. With the 325ci swapped the Z4 can now be 100% weekend/fun times car. Without the need to consider what's "reasonable" for daily driver duty, I'm free to let my desires run wild!
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12-23-2015, 01:34 PM | #34 | |
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12-24-2015, 03:28 AM | #35 |
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Magic... one question though, probably stupid, but hey..
your engine mounts, look great as does the support alu brackets.. but. are they in direct connection with the frame? any rubber there in-between them? how will this support all the torque coming from the engine, won't this transfer all of that directly to the frame? once more mate, please pardon my ignorance. looks bloody awesome though
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04-04-2016, 01:57 PM | #36 | |
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Yes, direct connection to the frame. The engine is mounted by two plates, a 3/8" aluminum front plate (front of the block) and a 1/4" steel mid-plate (sandwiched between the block and transmission bellhousing). Both of these plates are bolted to 1/4" steel tabs welded to the frame (frame is first reinforced with 1/4" plate then tabs weld to the frame to prevent flexing/stressing the frame tubing). Yes, all of the torque goes directly into the frame (where it should go). This is what pro-stock and high-HP dragsters use as it removes all of the stress from the cylinder block walls (doesn't twist the block) and is SIGNIFICANTLY stronger/stiffer/easier on the body (not to mention I won't be ripping any motor mounts off the BMW cross-member with this setup). Instead of the engine hanging "off" the frame, it is now an integral part OF the frame. The front and mid-plates tie the frame rails together, effectively turning the rails into a boxed section. In addition, the motor is now part of that "box" so it adds rigidity to the frame as well. The result is an incredibly stiff frame section. Vibration is always a concern with solid mounts, but with a properly balanced engine it's negligible. A number of years ago I had a 4th gen Camaro with this same motor plate setup and vibration was less than the stock 5.7 engine with rubber mounts. As an added benefit, the engine being tied to the frame does not allow it to torque over ANY so there is no "slap torque" (where the engine twists, loads up the rubber mounts, and then yanks the body). It's incredibly smooth application of power.
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04-05-2016, 08:51 AM | #37 | |
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04-05-2016, 10:02 AM | #38 | |
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M54 (without accessories) is around 375lbs (post #1): http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=233682 LS1 (without accessories) is 370lbs (post#4): http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/fo...e-weights.html
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04-05-2016, 11:50 AM | #39 |
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The Ls1 fully dressed and prepped for a manual is 497lbs per GM, 45x prepped for an automatic, and the LS7 was more because of the dry sump (but the engine was around 450-470)
The Ls1 is heavier, the Ls3 lighter. When prepped for a manual + transmission it's under 600lbs. http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...ls7-crate.html Last edited by Taskmaster; 04-05-2016 at 12:55 PM.. |
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04-05-2016, 11:52 AM | #40 |
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Oh, and that weight for the M54 is fully dressed. Still talking about 50-75lb, not huge compared to the power difference, but I did want to clear that up.
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04-05-2016, 11:57 AM | #41 | |
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Any idea what the BMW 5 speed manual weighs? T56 is ~125lbs dry.
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04-05-2016, 12:26 PM | #43 |
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I've always assumed it (5 speed) was (slightly) lighter than the T56. All and all, total weight change is likley within 150lbs either way. Some things are getting lighter, other things get heavier.
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04-05-2016, 12:57 PM | #44 |
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I imagine overall it will not be that bad, probably at most 75lbs difference. The Ls3 is the lightest of the bunch at around 415lbs, so that's only 40lbs off a M54. Amazing.
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