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      08-04-2014, 01:21 PM   #1
Kimolaoha
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Cabin Air Filter - CHANGE IT!! DIY

CHANGE/CLEAN YOUR CABIN AIR FILTER AND HOUSING !!

If you haven't already done so, I'd definitely recommend changing/cleaning your cabin air filter and housing.

Based on this thread (http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=690201), and the embedded admonishment that accumulating leaves and debris can destroy the actuator gears, I thought I might as well order a new microfilter and change mine. I'd read through the various threads and understood that it might be a pain to change it, but had found this DIY instructional video





as well as the Mann filter instructions (see attachment at bottom), so I gave it a go this past weekend.

First, I will say that the job is not as easy as the video makes it look, but not as hard as some of the threads would indicate. It's a lot tighter down there than the video makes it seem, but contortion is not absolutely necessary. I'd allot 45 minutes for the first time, 25 for future changes.

Second, the replacement filter I ordered was the Mann CUK2339 - about $20 from ECS tuning.
One oddity to perhaps be aware of is that the BMW branded filter is inserted with the arrow pointing towards the front of the car, while the Mann filter is inserted with the arrow facing the rear of the car, i.e. towards the cabin. See pics of the two filters - writing in red on the Mann is mine for reference.

Third, I wasn't expecting to see anywhere NEAR the amount of debris shown in the video, let alone three times that amount!! Just look what I actually DID find! Not just what fell out, but also all the leaves up in the housing itself. I definitely needed the cleaning and replacement! This is probably 30 months worth of accumulation.

Fourth, the general module box that is attached to the dash piece does indeed need to be disconnected from the dash panel as shown in the video, with an 8mm socket (left screw) or drive (right screw), but there is no need to fully remove the right screw, just loosen it enough for the box to slide out. The left screw will need to be completely removed. Don't be afraid to manhandle the dash piece a bit to flex it enough to use the socket or driver on the screws. Again, remove left screw, loosen right screw, slide box out and tuck it back away and out of the work area (do not remove any harnesses).

Fifth, the bulb (if equipped) will twist but will not come out of the fixture unless the fixture is removed from the dash piece. This is done by inserting a small screwdriver in the left hole and levering the assembly to recess the prongs. See pic. [Edit: The pictures may be a bit misleading as the bulb can be neither removed from, nor installed into, the fixture while it is in situ within the panel because the lip of the hole in the panel itself prevents bulb ingress/egress. You need to pop the fixture down and out of the panel first, then twist and remove the bulb from the fixture, then pull the bulb back up and out through the hole. This completely frees the panel. Also, btw, the fixture will not pull back up through the hole with or without the bulb in it.]

Sixth, there is also a rivet that is supposed to connect an attachment strip from the removed dash piece to the ductwork. It is not mentioned in the video but is pictured in the Mann instructions at steps 5-8. In my car, the rivet itself was still in place on the dash piece but the attachment strip to the dusctwork had been previously broken (presumably from an earlier disassembly). Thus, I didn't have to remove the rivet. I now see that the car in the video does not even have the rivet attached (and, btw, that there is no bulb assembly in that car). It seems perfectly secure to me even without the attachment strip. See fourth pic - back side of rivet and broken attachment seen directly under light fixture. Also, in the second picture you can see the actual attachment point on the ductwork where the strip broke off - the little tip in the middle of the square area.

Seventh, the filter cover swings down as described in the video, but when you put it back on, note that it must be pushed UP in place and then SLID sideways towards the centerline of the car to stay in place (the video shows, but does not mention, this sliding step). It took me a while to understand why the filter cover was not attaching. Once I slid it back, it attached correctly.

Eighth, when the dash piece is reinstalled ensure that it is secured in the very front of the right side footwell over the plastic retainer that sticks out just forward of the speaker - this retainer keeps the panel from dropping downward from its horizontal plane into the footwell.

And that's about it. I think this is an item that needs to be checked every 12 months or so - if not to change the filter then at least to clean the leaves out. Read the thread linked above. The leaves can apparently cause a lot of collateral damage.

If anyone has any corrections or additional tips, please feel free to amend.

Good luck, and hope this helps.

Mike
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Last edited by Kimolaoha; 08-05-2014 at 11:07 AM..
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      08-04-2014, 02:18 PM   #2
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Nice write up! My Mann filter was back-ordered from Amazon ($19.18 with free Prime shipping, up from ~$15.72 two years ago) but it's scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I ordered two this time.

Based on the amount of leaves and debris that you discovered, I'd suggest spreading newspaper or a large garbage bag on the floor on the passenger side before beginning removal to make clean up a little easier.
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      08-04-2014, 03:01 PM   #3
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Mine looked like that also. What a pain to change!
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      08-04-2014, 03:54 PM   #4
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If you have a roadster and found that quantity of leaves in your cabin filter, better make sure to check your soft top drains as well.
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      08-04-2014, 04:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Z4MR View Post
Nice write up! My Mann filter was back-ordered from Amazon ($19.18 with free Prime shipping, up from ~$15.72 two years ago) but it's scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I ordered two this time.
Thanks for that tip. I just ordered two more from Amazon, one to have on hand when I get back under there, plus one spare. I'll probably look again after the autumn leaves have finished falling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Z4MR View Post
Based on the amount of leaves and debris that you discovered, I'd suggest spreading newspaper or a large garbage bag on the floor on the passenger side before beginning removal to make clean up a little easier.
I honestly didn't expect to have much - if anything - in there and was extremely surprised at how much had accumulated, as well as how much was still lodged up in the housing. The shop vac was key, but next time I'll put something down.
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      08-04-2014, 04:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post
If you have a roadster and found that quantity of leaves in your cabin filter, better make sure to check your soft top drains as well.
True that!

I just had the hydraulic motor replaced under warranty two months ago.
Now I know why and am therefore painfully attuned to this problem.
See this thread: http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005495

I checked this past weekend and still have good flow from both tubes, but will now routinely blow them from below with compressed air.

Like I said in another thread, these cars seem to have real waste elimination issues!
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      08-04-2014, 08:12 PM   #7
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$14 on amazon http://www.amazon.com/2003-11-BM0314...ywords=CUK2339

and just noticed the oil filter 816 x is less than $10 as well for those that need it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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      08-04-2014, 08:33 PM   #8
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Ebay has the filter as low at 12.80 shipped.
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      08-05-2014, 03:51 AM   #9
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Nice write up. I appreciate the link to the previous thread about the broken actuator gear teeth. Just goes to show what this DIY can save you! I just bought a Z4MC a couple of months ago and don't have a garage so it sits under a willow oak in my driveway.

There is a DIY forum up one and over for Z4 repairs/maint. This would be a nice addition. Can the mods move this?
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      08-05-2014, 09:02 AM   #10
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That is a lot! I changed mine a few months ago and did not find near that much. Mine had a OEM filter in it and I was guessing that it was still the factory one, but I did not have a tenth of that in mine. I sweeped the housing out and shop vaced it from both sides too. After 10 years, I would have expected more by looking at yours. Must have always been garage kept like it is now.
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      08-05-2014, 09:40 AM   #11
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One question about your diy write up (thanks for it). When I did my cabin filter two years ago, for the life of me I could not get the light bulb disconnected in order to remove the panel from the car (if I recall, if you leave the bulb connected but pop the light fixture out you can't pull the fixture back through the hole so you can remove the panel and have it out of your way). In your picture, I see that the light bulb is already disconnected. Why would you then need to remove the light fixture from the panel? Just remove the panel from the car at that point.
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      08-05-2014, 10:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elerner61 View Post
One question about your diy write up (thanks for it). When I did my cabin filter two years ago, for the life of me I could not get the light bulb disconnected in order to remove the panel from the car (if I recall, if you leave the bulb connected but pop the light fixture out you can't pull the fixture back through the hole so you can remove the panel and have it out of your way). In your picture, I see that the light bulb is already disconnected. Why would you then need to remove the light fixture from the panel? Just remove the panel from the car at that point.
The bulb can be neither removed from, nor installed into, the fixture while it is in situ within the panel because the lip of the hole in the panel itself prevents bulb ingress/egress. You need to pop the fixture down and out of the panel first, then twist and remove the bulb from the fixture, then pull the bulb back up and out through the hole. This completely frees the panel. Also, btw, the fixture will not pull back up through the hole with or without the bulb in it.

Upon re-reading it, the above sounds more complicated than it is - hope it makes sense? (I think the language in bold answers your specific question?) Also, the picture with the empty fixture back in the panel may be a bit misleading as I had put it back in solely to protect it from loss or damage while I was working.
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Last edited by Kimolaoha; 08-07-2014 at 09:50 AM..
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      08-05-2014, 10:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papitosabe View Post
FWIW, I think this cabin air filter may be a generic no-name filter and NOT an actual Mann CUK2339. Also, not sure if it has the carbon component.

The oil filter you link to is clearly the legit Mann HU816X.

Thanks
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Last edited by Kimolaoha; 08-05-2014 at 11:01 AM..
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      09-24-2014, 01:01 PM   #14
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The Mann catalog lists filter HU 926/4 X for Z4M. Thats this one
http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-HU...rds=hu+926+4+x

Not the one linked above.

Mann catalog
http://mcatalog.mann-filter.com/NA/e...ml:type=T94417
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      09-24-2014, 01:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoublehcubed View Post
The Mann catalog lists filter HU 926/4 X for Z4M. Thats this one
http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-HU...rds=hu+926+4+x

Not the one linked above.

Mann catalog
http://mcatalog.mann-filter.com/NA/e...ml:type=T94417
Right.
Different oil filter for the M - Mann HU926/4X.
Mann HU816X is correct for the non-M.

But as this thread was primarily directed at the cabin air filter, it might be worth restating that the Mann CUK2339 is the correct filter for that job - for both the M and non-M flavors of these cars.
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      01-20-2015, 04:33 PM   #16
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Thanks for the write up and video. Took me 10 minutes to do the replacement. I did notice that your images and the video show some sort of sound insulator on the trim piece you remove. My 07 coupe doesn't have the insulation at all and there's no indication that anything was ever there either. Weird.
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      01-21-2015, 09:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCF View Post
Thanks for the write up and video. Took me 10 minutes to do the replacement. I did notice that your images and the video show some sort of sound insulator on the trim piece you remove. My 07 coupe doesn't have the insulation at all and there's no indication that anything was ever there either. Weird.
Glad it helped.
Insulation may be a roadster feature - I see you have a coupe.
Not sure why it would make any difference though.
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      04-04-2017, 10:44 AM   #18
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Z4M cabin filter change is DIFFERENT

First off I spent 1/2 an hour thinking I had a torx fitting for the first two screws ( not sure where I got this from, but it was in my notes ) They were medium phillips.

Second, the Z4M does NOT have a bulb twists and pulls at all. I spent another 15 minutes rereading my notes. I simply pulled connector to the light wire, no need taking off the fixture. I pulled the old filter out without even disconnecting the wire, but at that point had pushed the release tab on the left, pushed the fixture out through to the cabin side.

Having the big plastic panel off will make it easier, especially to clean up everything ( I'm about to get my shop vac ) but not necessary to R/R.

My Roadster ( new to me ) had about a dozen small leaves and a huge dried up locust up in the housing, pretty dirty up in there and filter was fairly dirty to look at. Definitely lay down something to catch all the debris.
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