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| 01-05-2013, 10:41 PM | #23 | |
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Private First Class
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| 01-06-2013, 10:54 AM | #25 |
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Private First Class
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| 01-06-2013, 01:22 PM | #26 |
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First Lieutenant
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It's my belief that over 90% of the bearing wear occurs between 7500-8000RPM.
A tune/setup has power peaking at >7500 may be your best compromise between power/wear. I got lucky with my setup in that the power peaks at around 7200 and when driving hard I shift as the tach just touches the yellow. My lead never comes back over 1-2PPM on UOA and most often is 0.
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Toy: 2008 Silver Z4MC 300WHP/241TQ
![]() Mods: OEM Euro Headers, RPI Scoop Daily: 2010 Tacoma Double Cab |
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| 01-06-2013, 01:57 PM | #27 |
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Enlisted Member
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Starting the summer of 2012 I switched to Liqui Moly 10W60.
During hot summer days (35+ deg. C air temperature, highway speed of 170+ Km/h) the Liqui Moly oil temperature is about 5 deg. C lower than when using Castrol TWS. Just felt it may be useful to report this. |
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| 01-06-2013, 02:06 PM | #28 | |
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First Lieutenant
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Toy: 2008 Silver Z4MC 300WHP/241TQ
![]() Mods: OEM Euro Headers, RPI Scoop Daily: 2010 Tacoma Double Cab |
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| 01-06-2013, 05:07 PM | #29 |
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Private First Class
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Bottom line is because of our engine design the bearings are a wear item if you drive our cars like they were meant to be driven or an 80 year old grandma.If you track our cars this will happen sooner rather than later with the stock setup ( high temps on track , narrow bearings ). No oil brand will protect you from this . For me why have a high revving I6 if you are going to drive it like a Camry . No short shifting on track for me . That's why I have fixed the temperature issue , and replaced the bearings with a better one, now I can drive my car like it was meant to be driven for many more years . The rest of the engine was pristine , our engines are far from glass guys .
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| 01-06-2013, 07:46 PM | #30 |
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Private First Class
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I am assuming they did all the work for under the car, by removing the oil pan without removing the motor.
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| 01-08-2013, 08:47 PM | #32 | |
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Major
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Quote:
http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/archives/12643
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| 01-08-2013, 09:39 PM | #33 | |
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Private First Class
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| 01-16-2013, 01:08 AM | #35 |
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Major
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De-railing the thread somewhat, but I'm wondering how hard it would be to adapt a setrab oil cooler. Anyone know the dimensions of the stock oil cooler?
I know ESS uses a setrab cooler, but they won't sell it to you unless you get stage 2.
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| 01-16-2013, 10:28 AM | #36 | |
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Major General
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| 01-16-2013, 10:51 AM | #37 | |
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Private First Class
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| 01-16-2013, 12:55 PM | #38 |
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Major
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Good info, looks like they have at least one oil cooler kit.
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| 01-16-2013, 04:56 PM | #40 |
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Major
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I also found out VAC has a bolt-on oil cooler for the e46.
Was hoping to get the dimensions of our stock cooler, so that maybe we can find something we can adapt to have it in the stock location/stock size. I figure we can get more efficiency out of the package, but keep the car mostly stock. Plenty of people are tracking without issue, so it doesn't need to be a huge upgrade, maybe just a more modern/efficient cooler with slightly more capacity.
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| 01-16-2013, 06:05 PM | #41 | |
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Private First Class
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| 01-21-2013, 05:30 AM | #42 |
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New Member
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![]() Hope you like it ![]() In the german forums its the same discussion about the rod bearings on nearly every M engine (S50B30, S50B32, S54B32, S62B50, S65B40, S85B50). Some look good, some bad. Greetings Karsten |
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| 01-21-2013, 08:03 AM | #43 | |
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Enlisted Member
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1. Can you please confirm that the M6 oil cooler is part number 17 22 2 282 499 - which fits E60 M5, E61N M5, E63 M6 and E64 M6? 2. What about oil cooler lines? Do the original Z4M fit the M6 oil cooler without mods, or custom made lines are needed? |
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| 01-21-2013, 08:30 AM | #44 |
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Second Lieutenant
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It looks to me that there is some sort of block fitting that goes onto the oil cooler, and it appears that part is the same, so it would only require a custom bracket which would probably be a pretty simple thing to fabricate.
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