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      12-02-2012, 10:07 AM   #23
inTgr8r
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In case y'all were wondering.
There was a problem with getting one of the gauges from Stack, so the interior work was on hold for several months while the vendor sorted them out.

I don't have a heated garage so this will be on hold until spring.
.....I don't like to take plastic bits apart in cool weather, tabs tend to snap off.
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      12-02-2012, 01:46 PM   #24
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hi ian, i was talking about the top port, the 1/8 npt port.... i was wondering if it was a straight cut thread right through to the centre the ali piece or if it had a bottom to the thread.... my pics shows theirs clearly a bottom to the thread as you can see the flat in the bottom of the 1/8 npt thread.... i wanted to Tighten down my Autometre sender, this would have been ok if the thread didnt have a bottom if you get me, but as it does, it wont tighten anymore anyway ;-)

sorry for the confusion.... its quite difficult to explain what i mean....
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      12-02-2012, 03:57 PM   #25
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IC now....
That port is a taper thread, so the threadbare the seal, it does not bottom out to make a seal.
There's always a danger of over tightening with unpleasant results.
..that said, if you back it right out and reapply new Teflon it will likely tighten down a little more.
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      12-02-2012, 04:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
IC now....
That port is a taper thread, so the threadbare the seal, it does not bottom out to make a seal.
There's always a danger of over tightening with unpleasant results.
..that said, if you back it right out and reapply new Teflon it will likely tighten down a little more.
arhh ok..... i doesnt look tapered??

looking at the pic you can clearly see a machined "bottom" to the thread, (not saying that this creates the seal however)



what im getting at is... i can't tighten it anymore as it'll bottom out ;-) theirs a clear end to the thread via a machined flat piece which can be seen above, i was wondering if it went right through to the middle of the block, if you get what im trying to say??? Clearly not however.
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Last edited by Beedub; 12-02-2012 at 04:47 PM.
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      12-02-2012, 06:06 PM   #27
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There will be a center channel that runs up the center, hence the OE plug that gets moved to the end.
The port for the sender is drilled deep enough to go past the center channel.
If you look at the pic you posted, there is a dark spot at the bottom right. ....that's the center channel.

The sender fitting definitely does not screw in to the bottom, else it would block the center channel & the sender wouldn't work.
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      12-31-2012, 07:35 AM   #28
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ian..... sorry to bump this again.... but just reading your comments, you said the top port is a taper thread, how could you tell, is their a visible taper??

byron
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      12-31-2012, 08:13 AM   #29
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Top port or gauge tap port?
The top (end) port is the same as the port on the car.
I transferred the plug from the car to that end.

For the gauge port.....
I was going by the spec on the gauge sender threads which is taper & they definitely mated up properly.
I don't have the link to the web site for the block, do they spec the port sizes there?

You can tell a taper thread by the way it threads in, It gradually tightens.
A straight thread goes in freely until it hits the seal washer.
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Last edited by inTgr8r; 12-31-2012 at 08:18 AM.
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      12-31-2012, 08:21 AM   #30
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yes it was the gauge port i was referring too.... thanks for the info here......
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      12-31-2012, 09:09 AM   #31
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No problem.

Ill get back to this thread after the winter.
I finally got my gauges sorted out (incorrect shipment)
But it was getting too cold to try and take interior plastic bits apart.
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      12-31-2012, 09:20 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
Should replace clamps.
I found some conflicting information on that from the manufacturer, I'm not disagreeing with what the TIS says. Oetiker says that they can be reused. I'd still like to have a couple on hand so that any damaged ones could be replaced. Lets face it, no one is using the proper tool to remove these.

http://www.oetiker.com/en/Products#/...CFFFDB93C6F01F

I just had my intake off and found that using needle-nosed pliers and a screw driver (per the removal instructions here) worked for install as well.
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      12-31-2012, 09:34 AM   #33
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I have the tools and keep a pile of them in my garage. I have found them to work better than hose clamps, and look cleaner.
My boat engines use a bunch of these as well.


Plus, it doesn't hurt that I am a distributor for their stuff....
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      12-31-2012, 09:44 AM   #34
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What type are these clamps?

123/193, 117/167 or 167 PEX US
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      12-31-2012, 12:13 PM   #35
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Our intake clamps are Oetiker Stepless® Low Profile Clamp PG 168 with Tolerance Compensation. 63 mm diameter.

Okay, most of us don't have the right tool. Might be good to know somebody who has access to these.
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      12-31-2012, 12:51 PM   #36
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The tool is PN 14100082 and is about $15.
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      12-31-2012, 03:15 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geauxkart View Post
The tool is PN 14100082 and is about $15.
Wow, that may actually work on most of the cylinder clamps. Assuming it is narrow.
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      12-31-2012, 05:10 PM   #38
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If anybody needs the clamps / tool - PM me and I'll give you a deal.

I am assuming the 63MM mentioned above is the compressed size? Not the open size?
I am going to order some cause in the next few months I am going FI.
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      12-31-2012, 05:18 PM   #39
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My clamps had "OET 63" engraved on the clamp itself. I believe this is the compressed state since they can come completely apart. Realoem also has the part description as "15 MUFFLER CLAMP D=63MM"

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...12&hg=11&fg=40
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      01-01-2013, 02:09 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geauxkart View Post
The tool is PN 14100082 and is about $15.
14100082 looks like a ear clamp. Used for item with steer hose to hold.
I have two of them. One Oetiker 14100118 one side. The other is Knipex 1099 two sides.

http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-141000.../dp/B00375LRKC

I have two for what you need (I don't send). The Oetiker BMW (old) 90 88 6 11 9 160 (new) 83 30 0 493 755 is $145.85. It works. Use if you put them back.
The other and doesn't work good to me Lisle 30500 around $16.95. Can get it out but does many don't work back in. I put new clamps in.

Last edited by Ron Stygar; 01-01-2013 at 03:54 PM.
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      01-01-2013, 10:26 AM   #41
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Oetiker BMW







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      01-01-2013, 03:52 PM   #42
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Lisle 30500

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-Bo...ds=lisle+30500
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      01-01-2013, 07:18 PM   #43
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Oetiker

Page 8: 16802199 ? 0"63"0-906 RT8 Width 9.0mm Thickness 0.6mm 63mm diam.

http://www.oetiker.com/en/~/media/Do...anz-EN-USL.pdf

BMW 63mm 11 61 7 832 745.
.
.
.
.

Last edited by Ron Stygar; 01-01-2013 at 10:38 PM.
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