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      11-09-2012, 11:30 PM   #1
mlawfl11
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What camber settings are you using?

What camber settings are you guys using? and with what wheel/tire set ups?
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      11-10-2012, 01:35 AM   #2
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-2, zero toe, front. -1.7, 1/32 toe in rear. -2.7, bit of toe out, front at the track, same rear settings. 2 shims front to get that much negative camber (no plates).

NT05s, 235/40, 265/35.

But that's me. Mixed track, autoX, and street (back roads) on weekends. My setup isn't geared for a DD. What are your goals?
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      11-10-2012, 03:42 AM   #3
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i run -2.7, i have shims in place and Kw clubsports with camber plates. I used shims as well so i could have more camber using LESS of the camber plate adjustment so i could keep the bolts within the small suspension top opening... otherwise to get the camber i need means i'd need to keep dropped the strut to change camber. The only issue with doing it this was is you need aggressive offsets on the front as the tyre/rim is close to the strut. ET 32 and lower on a 8.5" wide rim offers more than enough clearance.
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      11-10-2012, 02:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
-2, zero toe, front. -1.7, 1/32 toe in rear. -2.7, bit of toe out, front at the track, same rear settings. 2 shims front to get that much negative camber (no plates).

NT05s, 235/40, 265/35.

But that's me. Mixed track, autoX, and street (back roads) on weekends. My setup isn't geared for a DD. What are your goals?
Almost exclusively for a DD. Occasional track use.
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      11-10-2012, 04:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlawfl11 View Post
Almost exclusively for a DD. Occasional track use.
The -2 up front might cause more inner wear, but many use that as a mixed DD and track compromise setting. The zero toe really helps with wear, but w/o some slight toe-in there's an increase in tramlining, but the improved turn-in and response is worth it to me.

Most folks need shims to get even -1.5 up front. Here's one of many threads on that topic.

For the track, and if you have some experience, you're probably going to want a more negative camber than -2. The car pushes badly IMO with max stock camber (-1), and stops pushing badly (again, IMO) about -2. I feel, given my driving style, that -2.7 is better for performance/wear. YMMD. I have mine set for -2, zero toe, and chalk mark the strut nuts, then push the struts all the way inward for track days, and move them back when done. That gets me the -2.7 at the track, with a bit of toe-out. Poor man's camber plate!

With a stock suspension, and camber washers, you can run up to a 8.5" front wheel, ET38, with PSS 245/35 without rubbing with 2 shims (needed for the -2 to -2.7 range of camber). With a 9" front wheel, you'd probably need an ET35 wheel to run that same tire (tire section width would increase by about 2/10"). See this for a bit more on this topic.
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