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05-10-2010, 04:57 PM | #1 |
Second Lieutenant
20
Rep 231
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Camber Kit Performance Difference?
I am running my 2004 BMW Z4 3.0i in the SCCA ST-R class.
I have done reasonably well to date, but I am preparing for Divisionals and the Pro-Solo events coming up in the next month. I just learned that the expected front runner has a full setup per ST-R in a Honda S2000 and I want to represent team BMW and shut this dude the hell down. I am considering adding a camber kit so that I can increase my front camber from -1.3 degrees to more like -2.7 degrees. Before doing so, I want to get an idea of how much time this could be worth on a 60 second autocross course. The rear camber was reduced to -1.4 to accommodate the limited front camber, but the rears could easily be run at -2.7 or so if the front had a camber kit. So what do you guys think with respect to adding the camber kit. I like the way the car handles now, but don't want to limit myself unnecessarily. I currently have modified my car as follows: Tires: Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec 255/35-18 square setup Sway Bar: H&R front full soft / rear one setting from full stiff (pyrometer confirms this is an even setup) Limited Slip Differential added (3.0 does not have a LSD) Shocks: Koni Yellow S/A Springs: 440 front / 550 rear Battery: Braile 11.5 # |
05-10-2010, 06:25 PM | #2 |
Private First Class
8
Rep 165
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i dont' know if you've seen this. but you can add the kid of camber your talking about without camber plates using tuner's shim kit http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html..._ID=TSU3690036
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05-10-2010, 06:38 PM | #3 |
Second Lieutenant
20
Rep 231
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Thanks, but unfortunately that will not work for my car.
It would be perfect, except that it only applies to the E36 and Z4M, which use the same type front suspension design. The Z4 non-M has the E46 front strut, and is different than that. Thanks though. |
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05-12-2010, 12:39 PM | #5 |
Second Lieutenant
8
Rep 222
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Ours works well on a ROAD COURSE with about -2.7 front and -2. rear (TCKline ft camber plates, strut bar, Hoosier R6).
We have very few mods so I have no frame of reference as to what the car would do with everything you've done. I'd suggest getting a pyrometer. |
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05-30-2010, 06:11 PM | #7 |
Second Lieutenant
20
Rep 231
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The temps tend to run evenly front and back, and across the tires at about 110 degrees on a 75 degree day.
Today, it was about 95, and I had to use water to cool the tires since they were slippery even after bleeding pressure. After being cooled, they handle fine. The car is weak in slaloms, due to body roll and seeming want for more grip. It is not slow, but I think the car is capable of much much more. |
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05-30-2010, 06:12 PM | #8 |
Second Lieutenant
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Rep 231
Posts |
I could either stiffen the sway bars, or go with stiffer springs, but 440 front and 550 rear springs should already be enough.
The H&R sways are full soft front and mid on the rear to create a neutral car with -1.2 front camber and -2.1 rear. (cannot get more front or less rear and keep the proper toe.) |
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