Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches
The rpm dragging down has to do with the engine spinning at a greater speed than it would be in the new gear, like when changing gears too quickly during a 7000 rpm redline shift. If the speed isn't matched when the clutch pedal is released and clutch engaged, that energy in the spinning engine and flywheel is sent through the drivetrain and out the weakest link. Assuming that shock doesn't cause any part of the drivetrain to fail catastrophically, it will usually cause the rear tires to chirp (meaning adhesion to the road is the weakest link). A failing clutch can be the weakest link, in which case it will slip and the rpm will drag down over the course of a second or so, instead of immediately matching to the new gear.
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That is something which is the same for a normal engine and a supercharged engine. The supercharger doesn't add kinetic energy to the moving parts in the engine thus does not cause any more strain to the clutch when shifting without applying power.
The way you describe shifting (this is upshifting you describe) is like normal shifting. The speed that you operate the clutch and gearbox dictate if the engine (flywheel) gives extra kinetic energy to the clutch, the clutch&flywheel are matched or the drivetrain gives kinetic energy to the engine.
I don't see the problem because your explanation doesn't differ for a normal engine or a supercharged engine in (potential) wear. It is normal clutch operation.
ESS also doesn't advise an uprated race clutch (certainly not in a daily driver!). I guess they are wrong too? They advise that on a TS3 level, but that is a completely different game.
It's like I said: the stock clutch can handle the torque, it will NOT slip (my car is prove as it runs on far greater torque with the same clutch). Also an uprated clutch with larger torque capacity doesn't automatically means that that will have a longer life! (for both the clutch plate and the flywheel!) It only means that it wont slip under higer torque. Most of the time a race clutch has a rubbish lifespan compared to the OEM product (which IS designed for maximum lifespan). It is designed to handle torque (and not slip under really abusive clutching with full power applied), not have a long life. The sintered blocks they sometimes have can have a small surface and can eat through flywheels.
For the TS' situation (2,5i with ts2) the clutch is at risk only if he doesn't know how to shift.
But I think the TS maybe shouldn't begin at FI because he writes it's his daily driver. FI can cause rough idle, vacuum hoses (and other hoses) to leak (especially the ts setup requires to adjust/make some new pipework), it can ruin your cats (rich running, soot) etc etc.
Those are some of the things to expect that will ultimately limit the end mileage the engine will make even when you're not stressing it hard all the time (which is likely: you don't daily drive with 100% power all the time, you're mostly driving behind the car in front of you, especially in bangkok). It is just how you plan the lifespan of the car. If you plan to do 200k+ miles without big problems or replacing expensive parts, don't FI.