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Originally Posted by Uncle Russ
You can also remove the rubber flapper thing covering the drain exit by pulling down on it. That's what I did with mine.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by StickMon
. . . you should be able to diddle the sphincters at the bottom of the drains [near the little "reverse mud flap" air deflector in front of the rear wheels] without jacking it up
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I'm assuming the 'rubber flapper thing' that Uncle Russ references is the same 'sphincter' at the bottom of the drains that StickMon likes to periodically 'diddle'?
I recently had a similar motor failure in my '08 -- and the car was 8 days out of CPO warranty! We've banked quite a bit of goodwill with BMW and the Dealer over decades (long story), so the repair was - thankfully - covered.
Troubling, however, was the answer to my query about periodic maintenance on the drains, as I have no desire to go through this again. I was told that they "do not routinely clear the drains for customers but not to worry as the new motor was warranted for two years anyway." Not the answer I want to hear. Another more candid tech was honest enough to tell me that these cars need to be garaged or the less-than-optimum design of the drainage WILL eventually cause the motor to fail. I think that may be an overbroad caution, as diligent cleaning should allow a car to be kept on the driveway (if there is no more room in the garage).
Although I've archived and studied the drain clearing DIY, I've not yet crawled under there to have a go at it - but intend to this weekend. It does seem to me, though, that access to the driver side drain, especially, is quite difficult and that successful clearing is hit or miss at best.
I have a few questions that might help in optimizing a reliable method and a gauge as to when cleaning is really necessary.
If I pour a bucket of water down the back of the raised soft top,
I should expect to see two streams of water - one in front of each mini mud flap just forward of each rear tire, correct? If I see no streams, or one stream, or weak streams, then I've presumably got a problem, right?
Does the design of the well and the placement of the motor and drainage tubes make
water accumulation more likely when the parked car is inclined with the nose lower? - or the tail lower? - or does it make no difference at all? I saw some pics of a disassembled well that seemed to indicate that tail UP/nose DOWN parking might be a better option for best drainage, as the driver side hole is in an even deeper well (housing the motor) at the front left corner of the soft top stowage cavity, and if the nose is up water could possibly pool in the rear of the cavity and never even flow to the motor housing well fro drainage.
Should the
rubber 'sphincters' be permanently removed, or left in place unless actually cleaning the tubes?
Is the design and 'plumbing' such that
blowing compressed air from the bottom of the tubes (sphincter removed) up into the well a viable method, or will any debris simply accumulate in the well and then re-clog the drains? Is blowing DOWN even possible?
Is there a
position that the soft top can be halted during deployment such that access to the drains is easier? Is there a position where the well can be vacuumed clean or blown out?
Appreciate any thoughts from those who have been through this?
Thanks
Mike