Quote:
Originally Posted by fr8tdog
If you advance timing or increase boost then you are absolutely correct! You will be hanging it all out without a fail safe. My article is based on running your current tune....and only tuning the water/meth to the current tune. You are only adjusting the nozzle size, start time of spray, and rate of progression and location of nozzle. You will never adjust the DME or boost psi. The gains are realized because the DME sees a cooler dense air charge and a higher EFFECTIVE octane (slower burn rate). The Z4 M DME(ECU) will automatically increase timing....especially in hot weather when it sees the higher "effective" octane and of course more fuel will be added because of the dense cool air charge. If the water/meth system fails for what ever reason it doesnt matter. The car is only running on the tune for it's specific octane and boost, so if the water/meth fails it just reverts to its current tune. We are not changing anything with the DME, the DME is changing on it's own because it sees favorable conditions..just like when you drive your car in freezing temps as opposed to 120F temps. The AEM kit can be purchased for about 400-500$$ and yes you can apply this to NA cars, but you will not see the same results as FI. Another factor is where ESS places the AIT probe. The biggest mistake people make is to quench the combustion chamber of too much water/meth and loosing power. This application is used extensively with huge turbo diesels towing heavy loads and in my aviation background was used it to get required power for high altitude take offs with turbo prop engines. The Germans were the first to use this tech for WW2 fighter planes. Again, the beauty of this setup is you actually gain more with a cheaper kit as opposed to a $1000 plus direct port 2D system. If you are running a huge turbo and advancing timing with extra boost..them you would want to invest in a HIGH dollar fail safe, highly intelligent system with boost dump. What I'm describing only requires a system that can increase spray with boost with automatic start boost settings. If the system fails it doesnt matter...because we are not altering the timing, boost or fueling. This setup is just an amazing way to fight off heat induced power loss and gain Knock protection  Cheers guys. |
Great post and thanks for the clarification. I apologize for making the assumption you were running a specific tune to utilize the benefits of methanol injection. I currently run a more aggressive tune on my BT audi with direct port injection, and made the previous post with that mindset. Obviously like you mentioned I run a kit that will dump boost by opening the N75 valve if a fault is detected in the system (aquamist hfs-6). Much more risks involved with the way I am utilizing methanols cooling and octane qualities.
Do you still plan on using the nitrous?