Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon
If the exhaust is still connected the passenger side won't come up as high as the driver's.
You can easily rock the engine (kinda spooky) and put a piece of wood between the header and the wheel well to level it out.
Not sure how you did it, but I only jacked the engine up enough to get a little daylight between the brackets and the tops of the mounts, then removed the brackets.
Makes it super easy to swap out the mounts, and you only have to raise the engine about 1/4"-1/2".
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Yeah, that's what I was running into (passenger side not lifting as much) but I didn't correlate it to the exhaust still being attached so that is good to know.
I lifted slightly higher as a result but finally relented to basically bench pressing the passenger side mount up w/ my hands cupped around it underneath. Since I could raise the mount some, I was able to get my hands around it enough. From there, I could compress it enough to be able to get the bottom bolt out from it's home on the frame. Installation was the opposite.
It wasn't that bad in this fashion. If anything, the agony was more not finding others having the same issue documented on a forum coupled w/ the nervousness of raising the engine/trans (since I'd rather have used an engine lift). I'll go check the brackets for the method you describe, though. I'm always a fan of learning from others and knowing there are better paths forward.
Took the Moupe out yesterday and the difference w/ the VT and RE mounts is noticeable (as others have mentioned over the years). I haven't noticed needing the 'heartbeat method' for 1-2 shifts in quite the same fashion as before and I still have my CDV in. That is true for both slow accelerations and fast ones. 4-5 shifts are smoother at slow accelerations, too.
Slight NV (no H) at first start until the RPMs drop to normal idle but it is ever so slight and fine thereafter.