Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarton62
I have the interior out of my car to do a color change so trial fitting the pod was easier.
I would prefer to mount the pod from the backside of the console as IMHO it looks better and more integrated. It will involve tweaking the little aluminum tabs supplied with the pod though.
A word of warning though......I went ahead and ordered the "Speedhut" gauges because of the customizability of them and find out that the gauge pod is designed to accept a style of gauge with 2 "threaded pins" protruding out the back of the gauge as opposed to the speedhut gauges having the threaded collet.
I did solve this issue by trimming off the "bridges" at the back of each gauge hole and securing the gauges with a push on tapered plastic pipe cap
.A dab of silicone will hold the cap from backing off and will still allow for easy removal if service is required.
One question ........where in the exhaust stream would I tap in the O2 sensor for the AFR gauge?
Thanks
Dave
|
Thanks! I sent you a message on another forum about exactly that issue with the Speedhut gauges. I emailed Speedhut and was told that customers typically epoxy bolts to the back of the gauge, which is the route I'm considering.
For your O2 sensor, you need it prior to any catalytic converter. Cylinder 6 runs hottest and therefore richest, depending on your tune. I believe my Supersprint headers have O2 bungs for primary and secondary O2's, but I'll have to check. If this is the case, I'll relocate the secondary O2 sensors downstream anyway when I weld in cats, and I'll put the wideband O2 sensor in the secondary spot and cap off the other. Anyone know if this will work, or are the primary and secondary O2's different sizes?