Quote:
Originally Posted by mlawfl11
Almost exclusively for a DD. Occasional track use.
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The -2 up front might cause more inner wear, but many use that as a mixed DD and track compromise setting. The zero toe really helps with wear, but w/o some slight toe-in there's an increase in tramlining, but the improved turn-in and response is worth it to me.
Most folks need shims to get even -1.5 up front. Here's
one of many threads on that topic.
For the track, and if you have some experience, you're probably going to want a more negative camber than -2. The car pushes badly IMO with max stock camber (-1), and stops pushing badly (again, IMO) about -2. I feel, given my driving style, that -2.7 is better for performance/wear. YMMD. I have mine set for -2, zero toe, and chalk mark the strut nuts, then push the struts all the way inward for track days, and move them back when done. That gets me the -2.7 at the track, with a bit of toe-out. Poor man's camber plate!
With a stock suspension, and camber washers, you can run up to a 8.5" front wheel, ET38, with PSS 245/35 without rubbing with 2 shims (needed for the -2 to -2.7 range of camber). With a 9" front wheel, you'd probably need an ET35 wheel to run that same tire (tire section width would increase by about 2/10"). See
this for a bit more on this topic.