Finally got my car all put back together. Running smooth and quieter. The Inlet is a little off based on my vanos adaptations but I got the exhaust to within 0.4 degrees. My inlet was around 4.5 degrees off. I was still able to put the timing bridge pin in at the last step of timing, but I could tell it had moved some. One of these days I'll try again. Right now I just need to drive the car a little.
I ended up timing my engine the way
Kapt timed his engine in this thread. Here are the steps I used (crankshaft locking pin inserted and engine at TDC with both cams timed so that the pin just drops into place with no effort):
1. Install the hub bolts snug tight but ensure you are able to turn the hub by hand rather easily.
2. Find the sweet spot for both gears and install them into the hub close to their initial position. Put the vanos gasket in place. Be careful with the pistons it's easy to push the exhaust too far in.
3. Connect the vanos to the hub using the long solenoid bolts for support. You don't need to install the oil inlet regulating valve at this time. Connect the intake and exhaust pistons to the splined gears. Be careful with the positioning of the pistons it's really easy for the exhaust piston to get pushed in too far to get a wrench on the hex.
4**. Tighten bolts in a plane to 14 nm by feel. I basically just tightened those bolts as tight as reasonable with a wrench. I had gotten upgraded bolts, so I wasn't worried about breaking any. You could also tighten one of the top ones also to provide some additional support for the hub.
5**. Push the vanos to the cylinder head block until the pistons bottom out. You should be a few mm away from the head at this point. Check your timing with the bridge. The pin should go through both camshafts without resistance.
** Also you could, once the splined gears are attached to the vanos unit, push the gears/pistons all the way into the vanos until you hear them bottom out. The gears may come out of the hub when you do this, just put them back in when you push the vanos to the engine. This is what I'm going to do the next time I go into my engine to fine tune the timing. I think my intake piston wasn't fully bottomed out when I did mine yesterday (hence 4.5 degree adaptation required). Once you are a few mm away from the head tighten 4 bolts in a plane to 14 nm (124 in lbs). I also think next time I do this I'll use the special spacer tool to set the distance of the vanos to the head. The more I think about this the more critical I think this relationship is. And since I already have the tool, it won't cost me anything extra.
6. Release the 4 bolts by 1/4 turn.
7. Connect the two side bolts to the vanos. They should be 10 mm hex and not star bits.
8. Tighten the two vanos side bolts 1/2 turn at a time until snug. Check timing with the bridge.
9. I put in a bottom bolt to ensure the vanos was snug against the block.
10. Tighten the top hub bolts to 14 nm (124 inlbs).
11. Unbolt the vanos (two top bolts and one bottom).
12. Tap the vanos with a soft faced hammer to free it up from the block and remove the vanos from the car so you can get access to all of the hub bolts. Torque all of the hub bolts to 124 in lbs (or 10 ft lbs or 14 nm).
13. Install the oil inlet regulator.
14. Reinstall the vanos per above steps 3 through 8. This time when putting in the top left vanos bolt you can also attach the oil accumulator line bracket and install the bottom vanos bolts.
15. Check timing with the timing bridge and ROTATE the engine and recheck the timing. I ended up rotating my engine several revolutions to ensure the timing stayed consistent. I could tell that my timing on the intake side moved a little, but I could still insert the pin. I did have less the .5mm of space between the timing bridge and the intake side of the head where it rests.
16. Continue putting things back together.
Don't forget to clear vanos adaptations before you start your car. My car didn't sound as bad as I thought after reading the warnings in the TIS procudures about making strange noises until the vanos refills itself. It started right up. A couple of minutes later I got a check engine soon light... It ended up being a misfire on cylinder 5 that was caused by the connector not being fully pushed down for the coil.
The steps are what I actually did to get my car timed, the asterisk is what I intend to do in the future to see if I can get it closer to perfectly timed so I don't need vanos adaptations for fix it for me. Keep in mind that right now all of my INPA parameters are in the green and my engine is pulling fairly strong. I'm just probably going to go a little OCD on this in a couple of weeks. I haven't had a chance to get it to redline yet. I spent my driving time bedding in some Stoptech brakes.