Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r
I highly recommend getting flare nut wrenches for loosening the bleeder valve at the caliper.
They will prevent a potential major headache of using an open spanner.
Also;
A quick method for doing the clutch fluid.
- Remove the old fluid with the turkey baster.
- refill with new.
- pump clutch 20x (approx) & repeat.
Then do it again in a couple of weeks.
Not a pure drain & flush method but it gets most of it & it's easy. |
Ditto on the turkey baster - I removed as much fluid from the master cylinder reservoir as possible, then refilled with new, tapped the reservoir a few times to make sure all the bubbles rose to the top, then proceeded with the bleeding process.
Flare nut wrench is a good thing to have, but box end wrenches will work also since there is no line coming off the bleeder screw. Just another thought.
As to getting the ABS pump flushed, I had seen on the M3forums that if you have the ignition in the on position (engine not running) and depress the brake pedal while doing the bleeding, it will activate and cycle the ABS pump. You'd have to think about how to do this with your pressure bleeder too - maybe start at each corner by manual bleeding using the brake pedal and a buddy, and then switch to the pump for the rest of the bleed, I don't know. I can tell you I bled the brakes in my M3 the manual way with my wife pressing the brake pedal and it went smoothly, and didn't take too long either.
One definite, definite word of caution with the bleeders - if that thing comes loose from the master cylinder and gets brake fluid on any painted surface, you will have major paint damage - the stuff is real bad for paint. I have seen a couple of bleeders burst off from the master and it's a mess to say the least. I guess I'd use it if I were sure it was secure, but I didn't have one and doing it the manual way nearly guarantees minimal risk of brake fluid getting on any painted surface (just wrap towels around the master to catch drips from filling.