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Originally Posted by mfanatic325
Is there anything in particular I should be listening for? Cause I don't think the direction matters, since I've heard ticking on both sides. Today, I had a buddy drive my car so that I could sit on the passenger side, and I could definitely hear it. Wheel bearing seems like a much cheaper route to try out first before jumping to the diff rebuild conclusion. Maybe I should try that first lol. Any idea what the part #s are for wheel bearings?
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You were looking for any changes in the sound, I don't tip people off to what they SHOULD be hearing because then they hear what they think they should. Wheel bearings don't tick BTW, it was never wheel bearings.
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Originally Posted by Finnegan
Drive in tight circles in a parking lot and note any differences in the frequently (how often) and loudness of ticks.
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Pretty much.
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Originally Posted by mfanatic325
OMFG...turns out it was just road grime on the lug nuts. I took off the rear wheels and retorqued the lugs and the ticking seems to have gone away  |
That's good/interesting. Can you describe where the grime was a little better? (want to add it to my repertoire) Grime seems like a weird cause. Were they loose as well?
I know that loose lug nuts can produce not so much of a tick as a cracking sound (but pretty similar sounds) even when only one bolt is loose (usually when that bolt is at 6 oclock).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan
On the plus side that's a cheap fix. I'm happy for you!
Not so good on the shop front though if this fix pans out. O-Cha's suspicions and red flags look like they were spot on.
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Yea, hopefully it stays away, but that shop sounded like they didn't really know what was going on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfanatic325
All the shop had to say about this was: from experience, my diff had more play than normal, and hence why they recommended a change...to contact them if I need to open the diff up in the future..
:/
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I still love this, you just can't tell by hand, it's literally impossible. Plus the backlash being off would have been their fault anyway as they did the ring gear change. Some shops.... In fairness though, stuff like this can be a huge pain in the ass to diagnose and fix, what bugs me is that they went straight to something very expensive and not very likely, when you're in the "shot in the dark" stage of diagnosis, you start with the cheap stuff, unless you're trying to bend someone over.
Also FYI a busted/worn CV joint cage will allow more play "feeling" it this way. Just another reason why an "experienced" person wouldn't really make that comment.
The correct way is to remove the axles and lock the output shafts, and take a measurement off the input shaft. there's like half as much play by that point from the removal of the CV joints.
Good luck, hope the "fix" sticks.