My theory about being able to move the camshafts back and forth with the vanos installed to check the limits of vanos piston travel didn't pan out. Even with the solenoid block and end caps removed, camshafts wouldn't budge.
The end caps are sealed with O-rings. Not sure where to get new ones. Beisan maybe?
The "default" position for the intake is about dead on the alignment hole, and with the teeth "sticking out just a bit" as expected.
The default position for the exhaust is significantly advanced, and since I couldn't get the vanos piston to budge so I could turn the camshaft, the
alignment tool was largely useless to me. You can see the default positions clearly in the 7th pic down in
this thread, right under "A shot with the VANOS unit removed. Scary but sexy." Notice how far the exhaust spline is driven in.
I seem to remember talk about there being a long and short flywheel locking pin. Thought the short one was on
the list, but I got 83300490861 and had to saw it in half.
I was trying to fix
this left over from when my indie replaced my vanos bolts and couldn't get the camshafts aligned worth beans. Decided I was going to have to wing it.
Made careful marks, loosened the hub bolts and turned the camshaft and hub together very slightly CCW. WRONG. Started hard, idled badly, and I could hear the vanos hunting. Tore it apart again, turned slightly CW. Got the 14.0° error down to 8.9°. Learned a couple things about INPA on the way.
If the adaptation is on the + side of zero, you're too retarded
camshaft needs to move CW (viewed looking at the front of the engine) by the indicated amount.
Here's what I would suggest after diddling with the vanos:
Get INPA running and visible from the driver's seat before starting the car for the first time.
Clear all adaptations, or at least the vanos.
When you first start it, everything will look nominal. After about 2 minutes, if there's an error, it will show up as a difference between the actual and commanded (sollwert). The adaptation won't kick in until you drive it a little.
Before adjustment mine showed an actual of 114.6 for a commanded of 127.4. After adjustment it was up to 119.9 for the same commanded. Less than the adaptation values. It slowly creeps up as the engine gets warm.
The 8.9° error is at least now in the green zone. Close enough until I do a scheduled valve adjustment in a few months. Then I'll twist it the rest of the way. Car seems to run smoother and the
cold start phenomenon seems to have gone away. I think the large error was not letting it set the default position as far advanced as it wanted for optimum starting.