Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK
Hmm the previous link I posted was for the output flanges; this is the input flange I realise now... (I already had problems placing that nut...)
For the input flange you have to mark up the nut with a centerpunch or a marker. Afterwards you tighten the nut to the same postition (count the turns obviously)
There is no torque setting, as this probably effects the gear alignment from the pinion/spurgear setup.
If you've already released the nut....you're screwed (well, you have to set the backlash again for the gears, and then you'll need some inside information regarding the backlash data on the gears themselves).
This is the correct TIS link:
http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/Z_Se...ex.php?id=1063
It's 5 pages long so you have to click next page a few times.
You have the 210 diff with lock (only important for the special bmw tools).
You have to get the flange off with a puller after you've removed the nut (that can be fun  )
Shaft seal is indeed 33121213949
Lube the seal a bit prior to installation.
With the nut sits a securing/retaining plate 33121205138 accoring to TIS/realoem
You'd probably need that too. |
Thanks for the info again. I got quoted $175 wholesale for the main puller tool from BMW dealer today. Not going to tackle this job right now, just going to top off the gear oil and clean it up for now. It looks like a very slow leak. I'll do some more research about the tools needed for the job. Might be easier to have a BMW specialty shop tackle this if they already have the tools.
I was able to reach into the gas tank through the access hole on the side, and carefully remove the fuel pump. It felt like I was taking a baby out of its mother, plus a bunch of gasoline in my face and hands. The fuel pump sleeve kit I bought sits it nicely in the stock basket minus a minor tweak. There isn't room to clamp the top of the sleeve onto the new fuel pump because of the small diameter of the oem basket. On the plus side, there are 3 protrusions that click into the groove designed for the clamp. Attaching the new fuel sock on the bottom ensures that the pump doesn't have room to jump up and out. The wiring was easy. The 3" fuel line provided with the kit is too short, so I went and got a 12" fuel line from the local store. Seating the fuel pump housing back into its position INSIDE the fuel tank took about 25 minutes of figuring out the position, and then a lot of work to line it up with the right mounting tabs for it to click back in.
Today I bought a new fuel filter/regulator from the dealer, because when I tilted the old one sideways, a bunch of dark and dirty fuel came out. I'm sure it was hurting performance or drivability. 75k miles on the car.
I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the fuel line that attaches to the outside of the fuel filter housing. Its some sort of squeeze and twist setup. The workshop manual says to twist it towards the middle. I can't figure out the motion, if someone could help out that would be great. The dealer didn't have a new fuel line connector for me to buy..