Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK
I saw 7psi. But being digital it jumps so it's a bit hard to get a 'feel' for the boost gradient. The flickering from the cam missync also doesn't help 
This was 2nd gear? Cant you do a pull 4th to the revlimiter (when nobody's looking )
we need more vids ..... of everything!
what kind of mirror gauge is that?
I'm also still looking for 'the perfect meter/gauge' but I want it maybe in my ashtray. I'd love to get an all analog psi gauge (so a boost line to the interior), but that would need a really small dial and there would be no room for afr etc.
But somehow I think that an analog meter is much more responsive and gives a better feel for how the gradient/boost buildup is pictured.
You know, something like this:
Or this one is epic: instant boost at any rev to 8+psi!
(its in bar, so 0,5 bar is 7psi) |
Haha, it's funny I've seen both of those when browsing youtube
I think the ash tray pods are discontinued by both 3D Design and LeatherZ. I have one I'm trying to get installed in my non-M, but I think I need to take the whole center trim out to get it to fit in. Beyond that, only certain gauges fit without modification.
I too prefer analog gauges, a byproduct of my aviation time. With a digital gauge, you have to process the number you're seeing, and then compare it with your brain's database of what's good and what's not good. When you're tired, amped up, or not thinking clearly for whatever reason, the disconnect may cause you to miss something. It takes an extra second to process. With an analog gauge, you simply glance at its position to know if you're operating normally. The video doesn't show it, but there is a position indicator on the AEM gauges. It's not as good as a swinging needle, but better than the number only.
http://www.radar-mirror.com/AEM.html
It's $500 for the incorporation of gauges, plus the price of the gauges. I ended up buying a spare mirror to have the gauges put in, so that the car wouldn't be down without a mirror, and I could return to OEM if I chose to. If I had to do it again, i would just send out my OE mirror and deal with not having it for a week or two. I won't return to stock.
For power, I would highly recommend getting a fuse tap (
Link, thanks Rated M). Tap into Fuse #2, as it's empty and powers only when the key is in position 1 or 2. I still need to figure out the dimmer. I've heard of people using the M shift knob wires, but my knob has been dead for a couple years. I used a voltmeter and confirmed it's the wires that are dead. My ash tray light is also dead, which leads me to believe I have a fuse that's out. I haven't had a chance to track down which one.
So to summarize:
1. The gauge pod requires modification to gauges (addition of bolts to the back), or you must buy Stack gauges. I would just buy the Stack units. You must remove your interior trim to install the pod. You will lose the ash tray and power outlet, unless you relocate it. You have to look down to see your gauges.
2. The mirror gauges may or may not be distracting, and you will be without your mirror for about two weeks (or more for an overseas order). You are limited to two gauges, and your choices of gauges are limited. The price is the highest of any of the other options ($500 plus gauges, as compared to $375 for the pod or $400+ for the vent gauge). I haven't been able to get the mirror base cover back on, since I now have more wires protruding than can fit out the hole. I'll likely enlarge the hole when I get some time. The A Pillar, sun visors, and plastic trim between the A pillars must be removed to install. Running the wiring takes some patience. I bent up a coat hangar and taped the wires to it in order to feed it through to the fuse box.
3. The vent gauge is supposedly buggy, and according to reviews, there are a few kinks that need to be worked out. It can only display one reading at a time. You lose part of your driver's side vent. Otherwise, it sounds like a decent option.